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  • July 05, 2025, 03:32:48 PM

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61
Building techniques / Re: Another Nobler ARF Build
« Last post by Colin McRae on July 03, 2025, 04:44:06 PM »
Let me pass on what I did on my arf.  After replacing the bellcrank I removed the top ribs on the inboard tip.  I don't know what you will use so I will leave that to you.  I made mine so that the leadouts were above the C/L like they are on the ARF.  Before adding the adjustable box, find a 30+" arrow shaft and cover it with sandpaper.  Thread the forward leadout through the covered shaft and slowly grind the ribs away until you can get the forward leadout to the furthest aft position the leadouts could be with it pulled as far as it will go.  Biggest mistake in converting is to not allow for the leadouts to move without hitting something.  Make sure the aft is not hitting any ribs when the adjustable is full forward.  I think your BC is mounted behind the spar enough that this will not be a problem and the 4" will give you maby 2 ribe you don't have to sand.  You will have cut the center out of about 1/2 of the inboard spay, maybe more.  When you have it all cleared out get some stiff 1/16 x 1/8 and glue them vertically just behind where the back leadout passes through the rib with it in the full aft position.  That will replace a small amount to the crush strength from cutting the spar.

Good Luck - Ken

Thanks, Ken, for the means and methods as they will surely help. And I have removed the 3 upper wing tip ribs as you have done. I will reshape the wing tip airfoil once I have the wing tip slot installed.

But I was sort of inquiring the distance behind the CG to set the 'centerline' of the lead outs as a good zero point. Based on good flight performance, where have others set their lead out position on their Nobler ARFs?

So where is a good lead out position for a good flying Nobler ARF? The stock ARF has rudder offset and the C/L of the fixed lead outs is close to 2" behind the CG. I will be removing the rudder offset, and 2" seems way too far back.

Thanks

Colin



62
Open Forum / Re: Jetco "Sabre Stunt". anyone besides me ever build one?
« Last post by Paul Taylor on July 03, 2025, 02:42:35 PM »
I built a Jetco Sabre Jet and a Nobler.  Wrecked them both and put the two together with the stab and wing placement same as the Nobler but it looked more like the Sabre.  Point is it was the best flying stunt ship ever!  Power was a K&B 35 Green head. 
Won 2nd in Sr Stunt at the 1958 Midwestern States Championships in Kokomo Ind.  1st was the defending Nat Champ and I cant remember his name-flew an Ares. 
That hybrid Sabre would take the wind like no other and I always did better at contests where it was real windy.  I bought a kit a few years ago to try to replicate it but Im just too old to do it now.  Guess Ill sell the kit!

So you basically had a bashed Nobler?
Could the guy flying the Ares be named Billy? LOL.
63
Open Forum / Re: Not CLPA, but pure BS
« Last post by john e. holliday on July 03, 2025, 02:32:04 PM »
You guys and the large mattress smashers are a joke.  Dad asked me one time, " How do you tell a city boy from the country boy?".  I told I didn't know at the time.  He then stated a city boy will start at the face and go down towards the feet.   The country boy starts at the fett and goes up.  Reason is they must have good strong legs for doing the farm work. D>K
64
Open Forum / Re: Not CLPA, but pure BS
« Last post by Gerald Arana on July 03, 2025, 01:51:21 PM »
.

Got a phone call once, a weepy pathetic sounding young fella calling me "Grampa". He said he was on the E. Coast and needed money as he was in a car accident, damaged his car, and was in jail. I led him on for awhile, chastized him for his bad driving habits, asked how bad the car was damaged, what he ran into, etc. Finally told him he must have the wrong number, because I don't have a grandson. LMFAO    LL~ Steve
[/quote]



Hahahahaha I did almost the same thing..................only I told him that he was sitting on me couch and I got a "Click"!  Dumb ass.

Jerry
65
Building techniques / Re: Another Nobler ARF Build
« Last post by Ken Culbertson on July 03, 2025, 01:40:59 PM »
Let me pass on what I did on my arf.  After replacing the bellcrank I removed the top ribs on the inboard tip.  I don't know what you will use so I will leave that to you.  I made mine so that the leadouts were above the C/L like they are on the ARF.  Before adding the adjustable box, find a 30+" arrow shaft and cover it with sandpaper.  Thread the forward leadout through the covered shaft and slowly grind the ribs away until you can get the forward leadout to the furthest aft position the leadouts could be with it pulled as far as it will go.  Biggest mistake in converting is to not allow for the leadouts to move without hitting something.  Make sure the aft is not hitting any ribs when the adjustable is full forward.  I think your BC is mounted behind the spar enough that this will not be a problem and the 4" will give you maby 2 ribe you don't have to sand.  You will have cut the center out of about 1/2 of the inboard spay, maybe more.  When you have it all cleared out get some stiff 1/16 x 1/8 and glue them vertically just behind where the back leadout passes through the rib with it in the full aft position.  That will replace a small amount to the crush strength from cutting the spar.

Good Luck - Ken
66
Open Forum / Re: Rule of thumb for wheel size for grass
« Last post by Steve Helmick on July 03, 2025, 01:14:20 PM »
I'm in the 2.0" > 2.25" camp also, but I preferred the standard Dave Brown "slicks"...wide contact patch helps keep the wheels on top of the grass instead of sinking in. If you ever fly on pavement, Dave Brown wheels are the best. I put bigger wheels on the Twister I eventually gave to Tim Wescott, and those suckers bounced like a bunny on pavement. Narrower Dave Brown Electric wheels (narrow ones) worked much better on pavement. I think the type of "rubber" is important, but also the fact that there's less "rubber" is a big plus. If you can find a 2.25" wide wheel with very little "rubber", it could work for both. Maybe start with 2.5" or 3.0" and turn their diameter down.  n~ Steve
67
Open Forum / Re: Not CLPA, but pure BS
« Last post by Steve Helmick on July 03, 2025, 12:47:58 PM »
Y'all sound like a bunch of Grumpy Old Men, so count me in! 

I tried to talk the cheese 'n kisses into getting rid of our landline for 10-15 years, but she wouldn't. Finally, the phone quit working, and the crackerjack phone company missed FIVE appointments to fix it over the course of several months, and she agreed to fire them. But she seldom carries her cell phone around the house and I won't answer it for her.

Got a phone call once, a weepy pathetic sounding young fella calling me "Grampa". He said he was on the E. Coast and needed money as he was in a car accident, damaged his car, and was in jail. I led him on for awhile, chastized him for his bad driving habits, asked how bad the car was damaged, what he ran into, etc. Finally told him he must have the wrong number, because I don't have a grandson. LMFAO    LL~ Steve
68
Building techniques / Re: Another Nobler ARF Build
« Last post by Colin McRae on July 03, 2025, 12:03:58 PM »
Now that I have the Nobler ARF wing open, I have a couple of questions.

1. Adjustable lead-out centerline in relation to CG:  I currently have a somewhat beat up Nobler that I fly with the CG at 2.5" from the wing LE at the fuselage. This CG location seems pretty good in the air. This is also the kit recommended CG location.

At this CG location, the centerline of the kit fixed lead outs are a full 2-1/16" behind the CG which is a lot. My first thought is to center the new adj lead outs say 3/4" behind the CG. Then I can adjust the lead out position north and south from that point about 1" either way. So, my question is if the 3/4" centerline location behind the CG is OK, or is there a better location based on others flight experience.

2. New 4" bell crank forward lead out line:  The front lead out line is under the wing sheeting and behind the spar webbing. This will make it difficult to see if the new front lead out line will interfere with the wing ribs or other wing parts. Any experience or suggestions are welcome. In light of question 1 above, the front lead out at the wing tip with be much farther forward compared to stock.  (The rear lead out is fully accessible so no issue if and minor rib trimming is needed.)

Thx in advance.

Colin
69
Event's / JCAC golden oldies control line contest September 6th and 7th 2025
« Last post by tom_weedman on July 03, 2025, 11:30:29 AM »
JCAC presents the golden oldies control line contest September 6th and 7th stunt and speed limit combat AMA sanction #18666
944 Galilee road Smithfield North Carolina 27577
Camping allowed
Full kitchen on site food and drinks
Smash burgers and ice cream floats plus a lot more
Awards to Fifth place in all events
50/50 Raffle
Kits Raffle
Saturday's EVENTS 9:30 pilots meeting
Old time stunt
Classic stunt
N-30 Stunt
Ringmaster stunt
Warbird stunt
Profile stunt skill level (intermediate) (Advanced)(expert)
Sunday's EVENTS 9:AM start
All PAMPA classes and Speed Limit Combat
AMA required $ 15 first event $10 second Event $5 for any other events
CD Tom Weedman (984 833 9773)
70
Open Forum / Re: Not CLPA, but pure BS
« Last post by Dan McEntee on July 03, 2025, 08:47:11 AM »
   I am a rarity compared to some these days, in that I still have my land line. I have had that phone number going on 50 years and just HATE the idea of not having it!! My wife only recently got a cell phone, so if I wasn't home, she needed a way to call police of fire departments if needed. She has one now, but I still don't want top part with it. I used to be listed in the regular phone book also and have been getting sales calls for many years. With caller ID, I can see the number or even the person calling and if I don't recognize it, I just don't answer. If it's anything important, they can leave a voice mail and I'll return the call. I like to have some fun with them sometimes, when I did get sales calls. Especially carpet cleaning companies. After they gave their speech, I would ask, "Can you get blood out?" and they would say "Of course we can!" enthusiastically! Then I would ask further, " A LOT of blood?" That was usually followed by the sound of them hanging up!!  I used to get a lot  of sales calls from the local newspaper selling subscriptions and they would always call at dinner time. I gave the lady an earful once, telling here that I had been subscribing to the paper for "X" number of years, and in this day and age of computers, you would think that you could weed out the people that already subscribe and not disturb us at dinner time !!! Then I told her that if I got ONE more sales call from them, I would cancel my subscription!! And I never got another call from them after that!
   Type at you later,
    Dan McEntee
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