Welcome, Guest. Please login or register. April 25, 2017, 11:49:02 AM

Login with username, password and session length

Pages: 1 ... 5 6 [7] 8 9 10
 on: Yesterday at 06:55:53 PM 
Started by Allen Goff - Last post by Mike LeGate
Sounds like a good plan Fred. I'd prefer not to have any knobs/switches on the handle. Too much chance of bumping something while thonging up. Gotta read up on 2.4, the old Orbit ain't gonna cut it Grin

 on: Yesterday at 06:50:25 PM 
Started by C.T. Schaefer - Last post by Dave Edwards
First contest of the season was good to set benchmarks.  Goals for the year: add ten mph to these times

Fox speed: 90mph - the fastest box stock fox 35 stunt (that I am aware of anyway)
Perky speed: aim for 115 playing with venturi and props on the fora, gotta catch Al first
Clown speed: target 110mph, starting at 100 with my racing setup, this seems doable

 on: Yesterday at 06:41:47 PM 
Started by C.T. Schaefer - Last post by Dave Edwards
The whole idea was to use our NCLRA Clown equipment but in proto speed format. So, if it is legal for clown racing, it is legal for clown speed. We are on 52' lines, however.

Now it is a matter of tuning for pure speed without the lap economy and restart concerns.  I would expect these planes to get up there with the fastest perkies in the range of 110-115 by the end of the season. I dont think any of us have played around with the tz enough to know where we will end up in a pure speed event.

The mix of racing and speed seems to work, we had good turnout and ended up putting up lots of heats.  Probably more hours of competition than we have had in a while without killing our few remaining pilots.  Speed is nice because you can squeeze in a flight anytime you are ready, any order, between heats, etc. No need to wait for anyone but your ground crew and two timers.

 on: Yesterday at 06:37:10 PM 
Started by Allen Eshleman - Last post by Allen Eshleman
After some careful thinking, I decided to buy a new kit and to model any pieces for repair of the old one off of the correct parts and plans.  Hopefully, I will end up with two functional Shark 402's.  The flights I had on the crashed one were very positive. I really like this plane, nice looking and very maneuverable. 

 on: Yesterday at 06:34:32 PM 
Started by fred cesquim - Last post by Avaiojet
Dude, thanks, I am flattered,


It is what it is, she's a beauty.  Hoff Hoff

I've looked at this photo a dozen times every time seeing something more interesting.

Like that tiny painted area at the end of the canopy, or that effect you did with the paintwork along the forward LE? Looks dotted? Tool box tray material?

Care to give up a few professional secrets on how you pulled off this incredible work of art?


Edited: Photo added.

 on: Yesterday at 06:33:42 PM 
Started by Allen Eshleman - Last post by Allen Eshleman
Thank for all the advice.  So far, I had added a quarter of an ounce to the tail. No good weather for flying right now.  Will try that.  With that weight it seems to balance near the front line - the up line.

In answer to Charles about weight, I don't have anything to weigh with. I can say, that a good new kit, even an ARF will be lighter than this often repaired porker. 

I just finished all the modifications to the 40 FP that I ever plan to do.  I just added one head shim.  Before that I put a slightly smaller venturi in it. Hopefully, no more, runaways.

 on: Yesterday at 06:20:39 PM 
Started by fred cesquim - Last post by Mark Scarborough
I think, of the planes I've seen live, Mark Scarborough's version of the Don Shultz's Avenger and Bob McDonald's Aquila are my favorites. Combination of design and finish that is hard to beat.
Dude, thanks, I am flattered,

 on: Yesterday at 06:19:20 PM 
Started by Phil Goldberg - Last post by Mark Scarborough
I have written a ton on spray guns,, I recomend somthing like the FInish line series, detail or touch up gun, an airbrush with dope is ONLY good for small areas, you wont be painting more than a 1/2a with it for overall use. And not just because its painfuilly slow, but it wont let you put enough material to get it to flow.
you can use a HF 10 gun if you want, but unless you know what you are doing, you wont know if the problems are you or the gun, ,I totally recomend against it except for maybe primer,,
You can do what you want, but thats my recomendation.
Personally I spray with an Iwata airbrush ( 400$) only for shading and detail, an Iwata cup HVLP gun detail 4oz cup ( again 400 ) I use this for color and intercoat clears. and for Urethane clears I use a Sata Minijet again 400$
Now you do not have to spend that kind fo money , the finish line detail gun is a very good gun for the money , around 100$. It is HYPER critical to keep clean, but as long as it is clean it sprays wonderfully and you can get parts.
for a compressor, they only make pressurized air for the bgun to spray, buy what you can afford, remember the smaller the compressor and more important the tank, the faster it wear out. for modeling, a cheaper compressor is fine as long as it doesnt start puking oil past the piston into your airstream. drain it religiously before spraying, if you can let the tank sit for a bit to cool before you spray so you dont push condensed air through the hose. Use a larger size hose ESPECIALLY with HVLP guns, its HIGH VOLUME, so you need a good crossection on the airhose, also remember the longer the hose is the greater the friction loss and thereby pressure drop there is before the gun. setting the regulator to 40 PSI at the compressor and then pushing it through a 25 foot hose especialy a smaller hose, will net much less than 40 at th egun. ALso , your hose laying ont he cold ground will condense water out of the compressed air and give you fits.

 on: Yesterday at 06:13:55 PM 
Started by Warren Walker - Last post by Larry Renger
Well who else has an AMA Expo trophy for best Monokote finish? Did you cheat? I think not.

 on: Yesterday at 05:52:24 PM 
Started by Leester - Last post by Leester
Today I epoxyed the B/C plate, tapped the B/C for a 4-40 bolt, made up a push rod with ball link for the bell crank connection. I then sheeted the top leading edge and cut really light weight 1" pieces for the wing tips ( another bash instead of the plate tips ). I added Sig Faser landing gear to the fuselage.

Pages: 1 ... 5 6 [7] 8 9 10

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines

Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS! Dilber MC Theme by HarzeM