Yea my smart phone is bad about posting upside down. Sorry.
Would one of my buddies with a PC flip it for me?

So, technically a film rather than a video

Thanks Juan, I'm gonna show him that as well. Great stuff to have....makes a person's job building model airplanes a lot easier.

    Hi Bob;
   What year was the C/L camera flight? A couple of guys here in St. Louis did this back in the mid to late 60's for some footage that was eventually used in a film for Ford Motor Company. They used a model that was designed for "heavy lift" competition at the time and the flight was at Buder Park. Gary Frost still has a copy of the movie and I have seen it several years ago. I think it was done in 16mm format.
  Type at you later,
  Dan McEntee

The photo is upside down.

Hello John
                  Since you have a machinist son he can make this other tool for sanding the nose of the plane and get the right amount of clearance for your spinner. This Idea I got from an article on a magazine but can`t remember which one. I made it out of aluminum that I had laying around from doing something for my bike. The front disc is 2 inches in diameter for me that covers most of the .40 size planes I build. To use you bolt your engine with the amount right offset you want to the plane then you place sanding paper on the tools face and you slide it on the crankshaft and sand until you have the clearance you want from the spinner to the nose ring. Cover the engine inlet and exhaust,you can wrap it with cling wrap to stop dust and sandpaper particles. The pictures show the engine crutch for the Jetco Dolphin that I`m building.

Sometimes I like flying the ugly ones cause I'm okay with it crashing if it happens and they are the ones I let newbies try out.

I'm in too.

The ribs need relieved to allow the controls to pass (most likely).  Take the adjustable lead out guide and either directly on the plan, or using a overlay of tissue paper taped to the plan (if you don't want to write on the plan) apply the lead out spacings at the forward most and rearward most desired positions.  Now connect the forward lead out at both positions to the bell crank, and the rear lead out to the other end of the bell crank, and have fun removing material so the lead outs don't foul the ribs (or is it the ribs foul the lead outs...).

http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=32889.msg334991#msg334991

Phil

We got the chance to escape the cold and headed south for a week. We took a island tour bus and as soon as I stepped off the bus I spotted a pair of these. The wife said "OK let's get our picture by them".

Don't know what they came off but cool.