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 on: Today at 11:12:39 AM 
Started by Al Ferraro - Last post by Al Ferraro
  I'm going to try a LA 25 in the ARF Nobler (got the Tower deal) and wanted to know if anyone has done this successfully? After using the Gardner piston and liner in my LA .25 powered combat plane will great results, I thought why not try it in the Nobler? I already mounted the engine by replacing the mounts with 8" long 3/8 by 1/2 maple because the stock mounts were to wide and short. I would like to know prop, tank size, fuel, etc.
Thanks Al

 on: Today at 11:07:38 AM 
Started by Terry Caron - Last post by Fredvon4
Considering what Tim said about the Fox 35 being marginal--- I would tend to not comment because I have zero experience with a Banshee or any other supposedly Fox 35 plane in that weight range

My observation is about Terry's note/comment: "I've read many comments on SH that the .20 FP is equal to a Fox .35, and the .25 is even more.
Mine (an ABN) turns those props as well as any of my .35s - would they also be marginal for a Banshee?"

I currently have a 4 flying planes in the 30~32 oz range each pair with a good Fox 35 and it's sister plane with either a LA 25 or BBTU OS 20 (ABC--N)

When I do get to fly--- if the wind is down- I start with the Fox powered model and it does OK for my sport flying

However, I find that the OS powered planes launched at 10,800 to 11,200 RPM handle any gusts and constant breeze much better

This does not answer the question about the Banshee....

But is intended to be another vote for the OS LA 25 or FP 20 BBTU as viable and good Fox 35 alternate power plants----for most models in the 30~34 oz range like my Ringmasters or RSTs

If Terry and Ty can get the Banshee built in the 30~34 oz range I say the OS 25 FP will most likely be a great engine for the model

I hope the two can collaborate and let us know how this final build and flights work out

 on: Today at 10:57:09 AM 
Started by James Holford - Last post by Brett Buck
While the MA plane is pretty decent, they are not made like the old metal ones, or the heirloom quality ones mentioned.  The plastic is acceptable, but will flex in the hand if you are using a little bit more force like on hard balsa. 

If you are not using the plane constantly, instead only for a couple tasks every now and again, then you will be very happy with it. 


   I have used the same Master Airscrew plane since it first came out, extensively, and I am pretty satisfied with how it works. I also have the Combi and Exacto types and I think the MA better.  I had no luck with the type that uses double-edge razor blades - they're just too prone to deflecting and cutting off more than set depth.  I installed a heli-coil to replace the screw thread into plastic, and sanded the bottom and the ramp exactly flat so it hold the blade better. I have been planning to replace the plastic thing that goes on top of the blade with a steel or brass part for about 30 years now, but haven't quite gotten to it.

   Over time I have starting using planes more than sanding, and if you can carve a HLG airfoil most of the way in 3/32 5 lb balsa in a minute or two, I am not sure what more you would want.


 on: Today at 10:54:46 AM 
Started by Bill Mohrbacher - Last post by Tom Luciano
Hey, I know that guy! Scarinzi refers to him as "Frankie the Champ"


 on: Today at 10:52:03 AM 
Started by bob whitney - Last post by Ken Burdick
why the geezerly rant?
There is a stock class now and besides, the winner at Brodak used all Fox parts. He didn't make a thing......he just kept the stupid engine from blowing up right then. Are y'all too silly to understand how to reset timing to 30 deg opening and 65 deg closing? It's information that has been around for over 60 years. If you run a Fox without cleaning it, you will be putting chunks of aluminum through the liner.....EVERYONE knows that.

Here is what Tom Shafer wrote to me after Brodak. This is what speed flying is.

Ken. So far I had one con rod break. I don't like to stand in front while running. Since you are pressing me, while all of the parts are from Fox .35. not all are Fox Stunt parts. All of the Fox .35 and .36 parts swap right in so there are lots of possibilities and I have tried many of them!

All of the machinists lost, the tinker guy won.

 on: Today at 10:46:57 AM 
Started by Terry Caron - Last post by Terry Caron
OK, thanks for the clarification, Tim. I was under the impression that a .35 was fully adequate.
I was planning on the mods for it, so guess it depends on how light it turns out.
May hafta reconsider that Anderson .65 Ty has.  Grin

 on: Today at 10:46:13 AM 
Started by James Holford - Last post by Motorman
I moved away from planes and started using a 3" psa sanding disk in my hand drill. Never looked back.


 on: Today at 10:45:15 AM 
Started by James Holford - Last post by Norm Furutani
In this case, Ebay is probably the best and most reasonable source of the old style hobby razor plane. See:

For a discussion on which one, Hippocket has a pretty good thread. See:

Finding the old style blue double edge blades is also a challenge. Haven't had much luck with stainless blades.

Some guys are having good results with homemade planes and that info/plans are also on Hippocket.


 on: Today at 10:40:13 AM 
Started by Bill Mohrbacher - Last post by Brett Buck
some history

   Hasn't changed a bit!


 on: Today at 10:38:08 AM 
Started by Terry Caron - Last post by Tim Wescott
For sure, I'm that beginner you mentioned, Dan, and I'm confused.
I've read many comments on SH that the .20 FP is equal to a Fox .35, and the .25 is even more.
Mine (an ABN) turns those props as well as any of my .35s - would they also be marginal for a Banshee?

In the opinion of many, the Fox 35 is marginal for that sized plane -- which is why, starting in the late 70's, you saw 46's showing up in a lot of "35 sized" planes.  However, there's a lot of holdouts, so to some extent you have to decide which camp you belong in.

Build it light, put in a 25FP, and it should be adequate, although possibly more challenging to fly.  Just build it, put a 46LA in it, and once you get the engine set-up right it should be a solid, no-nonsense contest plane.

If you can stand going non-original, consider Fancherizing it.  The Banshee was designed with early 70's design rules, and for an unmuffled Fox 35.  That means that the tail is too small and too close to the wing compared to current contest planes, and that the nose is too long for balance with any engine with a muffler.  You can fix two of the three problems by moving the wing forward a couple of inches, and then you can solve the last one with bigger tail feathers.

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