Nathan,There's another way, keeping in mind that not only must the tank be secured properly, it ought be readily adjustable, and be a light installation.Obtain either 2-56- or 4-40-sized inner rods from one of those tube-in-a-tube pushrod sets so commonly used in RC models.Drill suitably sized holes in your fuselage, two on upper side of tank, two on the bottom. Give these a vertical spacing which will allow moving the tank up and down at least 1/4 inch, quite likely more if using the Hayes 3-ounce tank. (This tank is not symmetrical and typically needs to be mounted about 3/16" high.)Noting the pilot holes need to be a little tight (13/64" if using 4-40 tube) pound in short lengths of this tubing. Hit them with thin CA.Now you need some hooks and these are easily bent up from that threaded-one-end metal rod (again used in many RC control systems) available at Local Hobby. (It's worth noting that SIG sells 4-40 threaded hooks which are ready to use, although they are sometimes a bit short for my applications.) Lots of ways to bend these hooks and I prefer to use snipe-nose pliers.Screw hooks into receptacles installed per above.Install tank. Yes, you can use rubber bands even if that's quite tacky. Or there are lots of .060- and .090-inch "O" rings out there which you will find handy and quite reliable.Note that tank is now free to move up and down under flight loads. During first tests it's okay to make balsa or ply shims of various thicknesses in order to shim tank to whatever height seems correct. I typically use shims as thin as 1/64-inch with the rest thicker. (Later on, with tank in "magic" position, you can fabricate shims which will not get soaked with oil.)At the field you can run the engine while a helper holds. Get an rpm reading both upright and inverted. Any differences will be a clue as to shimming tank.Fly the model. Even with above test it probably won't be right. Shim accordingly, noting that you will merely be, for example, removing an upper shim and replacing it below the tank. Total shim stack stays the same, meaning there are no issues with measuring, counting shims and so on.Do not be satisfied with flying tests which are limited to upright and inverted flight. Fly maneuvers instead with horizontal 8s being valuable although not necessarily the final word, depending upon how experienced you are and how critical you want to be in getting the best engine runs possible.Dan
(Clip)Here's one wing panel silked with Sig dope. only three more left. Charles
Charles,I guess you can can cover and dope one wing panel at a time if you want to. It is a good way to get some uncontrolled warps. But you should not recommend it to a less experienced builder. If I remember right, you were warned about this with that rudder thing you did.Keith
Yeah Bill, I just wish I knew what my mistake was lol. I willtry to go into inverted from a tighter loop. That over head stuff still confuses me lol.
I got er up on er back and flew about three or four laps before I crashed it again. I know it's all part of the show but it's kinda annoying. I had to pull the rest of the wing out and am begining the repairs. It's pretty bad off but it'll go back together.
I'm putting it back together, it's gonna take some time though. I'm also erning where to bolster the airframe. I would suggest using some hardwood inserts in the spar top and bottom caps from one side of the center sheeting to the other. If I remember you re using a one piece leading edge which is probably stronger than my two piece but I'm inserting hardwood doublers in the leading edge as well. It's all learning and I love learnin.