Author Topic: Brodak Flight Streak (Read 22022 times)

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #50 on:** July 17, 2012, 04:00:20 PM »

Boy I hope you don't lose alot of the Flite Streak coolness due to weight. The TF models were heavy to begin with, now adding half ribs

. I like cloth hinges, some are against them but I am not; however, I did have a set fail on me due to CA in the joints. Anyway made some serious headway today. She's all covered, the control rod brace is adjusted, the poly is applied, gear installed, heck its just easier to say what is left. I have to mount the fuel tank and I'm gonna weight on some parts that a very, very, very kind member is sending me for my engine. After that she'll be balanced and out to the field. Nevermind the dishes I'll get to them in a minute LOL.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #51 on:** July 17, 2012, 05:12:18 PM »

Nathan,

Congratulations!

No, not for the model. Two, TWO! pages! Your build is now on it's second page! What an accomplishment!

Your Flite Streak looks really good! Great job with the covering. The tan, ( Monokote also?) looks great with it, not a bad choice.

I gotta tell ya, I like the clear wood allot. I might copy that too, Do you mind?

Is that an R/C carb? I guess you're working on that?

I'll PM you.

Charles

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #52 on:** July 17, 2012, 06:56:22 PM »

Yeah thats an R/C carb. I've used one before on similiar .15 os. Trostle is hooking me up with a venturi and NVA for it. Steal away manno I love to get new ideas on forums, thats one of the drawing points to a forum, stealing other peoples ideas LOL. Yeah two pages who'd a thunk it, and all that for a simple ol' flitestreak.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #53 on:** July 18, 2012, 09:44:07 AM »

Hey, that Flite Streak is looking great. Should fly just as well as it looks. Would build another one, but want to build my own Ringmaster for October. Remember to balance slightly nose heavy for first flights. Of all the Flite Streaks I built, flown with McCoy .34 Redhead or the K&B .35 Greenhead were never checked for balance and flew great for me at the time. Let us know how she flies and don't bruise the grass with it.

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #54 on:** July 18, 2012, 12:04:09 PM »

Thanks John, She balances just about right on the mark. My safety margin is I put the control wire in the second to the bottom hole which only gives me about 30 degrees up or down on the elevator. I have been told that FS's can be twitchy and with an adjustable handle and a slow moving elevator I am hoping to calm it down bit; however, the plane I am use to flying was a seriously twitchy bird and I miss it. Perhaps I will rebuild it someday. It was designed by some dutch boating company, real strange design but it worked great unfortunatley I had a wheel washer come unsoldered and it turned in then went out and snatched an untethered handle out of my hand and well its in pieces lol. I have already started on my second FS last night. I have the fever lol. I'll post pictures here in a bit.

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #55 on:** July 18, 2012, 12:19:56 PM »

After reading many a thread about newer flyers needing a backup airplane and after not flying for a month cause my stuff was broke I have decided to build a spare Flight Streak. I started last night and am working out of a Tower Hobbies big-box-of-balsa. There are some do-dads I will have to order but I am going to try and keep this as inexpensive as I can get. I have plenty of music wire so my leadouts will probably be solid instead of stranded wire. I may or may not use the adjustable leadouts that I bought for the first one. I have been thinking about this and have a question: Can I use hard leadouts with an adjustable leadout guide? If so then that is the route I am going to take. I epoxied two pieces of 1/4" together to make the fuse last night. The canopy will be made out of 1/2" stock. I started marking my ribs using the closet thing to 1/8" that I had, it must be metric because it measured .070. If I use the adjustable leadouts I'll make my last three ribs out of 3/32.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #56 on:** July 18, 2012, 04:04:45 PM »

Nathan,

TWO FLITE STREAKS!!

You win! I cannot keep up with that, this Flite Streak is it.

I was thinking about covering and your use of an iron on material. I may consider it and keep my blue silk for my biplane pusher.

Two Flite Streaks, gotta love it!

Nathan, could you measure your gear wire bend to bend? I don't have one?

Thanks,

Charles

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #57 on:** July 18, 2012, 06:06:50 PM »

Thanks. I have some more projects in line after I get this one done. Sometimes the easiest possible way to get something done is the right way, not always but sometimes, plastic iron on can be acceptable even for a master model builder such as yourself. The gear is 1/8" going from the fuse down the first bend is 3/8" and is a 90 degree the secon bend is ninety degrees from the first one and 3/4" from the top of the wire to the inside bend mark. The bend is 30 degrees. I hope this helps I tried to get a picture but my camer won't focus on it for some reason.

Bill Little · « **Reply #58 on:** July 18, 2012, 06:23:43 PM »

Quote from: nathan Metzner on July 18, 2012, 06:06:50 PM

Thanks. I have some more projects in line after I get this one done. Sometimes the easiest possible way to get something done is the right way, not always but sometimes, plastic iron on can be acceptable even for a master model builder such as yourself. The gear is 1/8" going from the fuse down the first bend is 3/8" and is a 90 degree the secon bend is ninety degrees from the first one and 3/4" from the top of the wire to the inside bend mark. The bend is 30 degrees. I hope this helps I tried to get a picture but my camer won't focus on it for some reason.

I am thinking the gear MUST be more than 3/4" long!

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

Avaiojet · « **Reply #59 on:** July 18, 2012, 06:32:31 PM »

Nathan,

I don't remember my other Flite Streaks having a slight kink in the gear wire?

My interest is the "overall" length.

Could you get that for me please. Give me something to do while I'm waiting for my cloth hinge material.

Thanks,

Charles

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #60 on:** July 18, 2012, 07:03:39 PM »

From the where the wire enters the fuse to where it bends into the axle area is 4 3/4 inches. The kink is possibly a brodak thing. Does your model have a small hardwood just forward of the wing at the wing center line? Wow that was convoluted LOL. The brodak kit has a small hardwood that the gear wire mounts to. I suppose the reson for the kink is too try to limit the gear bend back from a firm landing.

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #61 on:** July 18, 2012, 09:41:59 PM »

I think I have come up with the color scheme for the next FS. I'm gonna try ultracoat and my wings will be transparent blue with white scallops across the leading edge with red trim. I may be getting to big for my britches but I'm gonna give it a try.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #62 on:** July 19, 2012, 10:59:00 AM »

Sorry to say all my Flite Streaks did not have landing gear. My circle at the time was a hay field.

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #63 on:** July 19, 2012, 12:03:49 PM »

Different versions have differing styles or at least my fathers junior is straight and mine has a kink at the top. This llows for the gear to be a little under the wing. Brodak sells just the landing gear wire.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #64 on:** July 19, 2012, 05:27:13 PM »

Quote from: nathan Metzner on July 19, 2012, 12:03:49 PM

Different versions have differing styles or at least my fathers junior is straight and mine has a kink at the top. This llows for the gear to be a little under the wing. Brodak sells just the landing gear wire.

Nathan,

Did you check the plans when you installed the gear wire?

Charles

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #65 on:** July 19, 2012, 05:55:39 PM »

Oh yeah mine are almost exactly as per the plan. It came with a prebent wire. I wish I could get a decent picture of the plans for you but alas it isn't happening. 4 3/4 inches from the bend in the fuse to the bend for the axel is about right. Mine takes quite abit of angle to get the prop to touch.

Anyway, I flew her today 5 flights and all went terrific. Everything apears balanced and straight. It was windy and threatening to rain but we went anyway. I got a couple consecutive loops in and she held her lines and the .25 didn't burp a bit. I did have one run a little lean and another a little fat so I'll need some more seasoning with this engine to get all the kinks figured out. I am super excited, She turns great nd feels awesome. Thanks for all the help everyone. Stay tuned cause I'm hand building a second with a few changes.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #66 on:** July 19, 2012, 06:07:23 PM »

Nathan,

I'll bet you'll have your second finished before I have mu first finished.

Got my cloth hinges today.

Charles

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #67 on:** July 19, 2012, 08:24:25 PM »

LOL maybe Charles maybe. OH and I found the source of my needling problems and fuel bubbleing. My brand new Brodak tank both vent solders failed within two flights. This is not the first time I've had this problem. I bought a Brodak tank for my dad's FS Junior and his broke after one flight. I Emailed Brodak tonight and tried to not be an ass but it was slightly difficult. I have one more tank but it was destined for another plane and I don't want to bend his outlet tube. I'll probably resolder them tonight but that is BS if you ask me.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #68 on:** July 20, 2012, 07:31:38 AM »

Nathan,

I would have sent it back with a note. Brodak would have sent you a second tank.

You could resolder the second.

Charles

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #69 on:** July 20, 2012, 08:59:17 AM »

I didn't resolder them last night I was a little pissy when I wrote that lol. I sent Brodak an Email and m waiting for them to tell me what they will do. I had one more tank so I threw it on the plane so I can fly today. The thing is the vent tubes were not soldered together inside the tnk, this is probably what causes them to fail. It also causes excessive fuel foaming. All of my old perfects were soldered in this way. I would be willing to bet that the extra tank I put on her will crack the first day out. Anyway did you get them hinges down?

Avaiojet · « **Reply #70 on:** July 20, 2012, 03:51:13 PM »

Nathan,

Brodak will send you a new tank. Did you know they make custom tanks?

I have work to catch up on, I'm not retired, I'll probably glue the hinges on Sunday.

Charles

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #71 on:** July 21, 2012, 05:04:37 PM »

Went flying, only got two flights in before the batteries gave out,

She flew well and the tank vents didn't crack. I am narrowing down on the tune of her as well. She may be a tad nose heavy but I'm going to give it a few more flights before I make a change. My dad got a couple flights in as well. He had some mayhem of his own, the cloroplast bipe he built chucked the engine mount before it got off the ground soooooo back to the drawing board on that. Speaking of which. do you guys know of ny specific hot glue that works better than others? He also flew hi baby ring. She flew fine, his second flight on it he went inverted into the sun, lost the plane and down she went. The plane was fine but the block on the wen-mac cracked around the bottom mounting hole. We still hd fun and I am progressing on my second streak quite well. I remade a few ribs for it, cut the doublers, and the fuse is ready for hardwoods. I may need to run into the craft joint and grab some more wood for the leading edge but that won't be till next week.
Latersk,
Nathan

john e. holliday · « **Reply #72 on:** July 22, 2012, 08:28:56 AM »

Glad to hear the Streak is working for you. I have not had a tank that has not had the back plate removed so I could check the innereds. This is mainly to clean them of assembly crud. I also check the solder joints on the inside while the back plate is off. Even the old Veco tanks had the back plate removed to check stuff.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #73 on:** July 22, 2012, 12:52:14 PM »

Quote

Anyway did you get them hinges down?

Nathan,

As a matter of fact, I did. Just have to sand them a bit.

Thanks for asking.

Charles

Jim Thomerson · « **Reply #74 on:** July 22, 2012, 02:54:07 PM »

Here is my Brodak Flite Streak which flys a pattern as well as I can fly it. Note the heavy hub and dental floss hinges. Engine is a St G20-23, with a small venturi and 9 x 4 prop. Covering is silk, red on wing is tissue, blue and black canopy are Areogloss. Numbers are black tissue

Avaiojet · « **Reply #75 on:** July 22, 2012, 03:40:47 PM »

Quote from: Jim Thomerson on July 22, 2012, 02:54:07 PM

Here is my Brodak Flite Streak which flys a pattern as well as I can fly it. Note the heavy hub and dental floss hinges. Engine is a St G20-23, with a small venturi and 9 x 4 prop. Covering is silk, red on wing is tissue, blue and black canopy are Areogloss. Numbers are black tissue

Jim,

You did a nice job! I like the yellow. I'll probably have yellow on mine someplace.

Did you add the hub because you needed the weight. What's your lap time on that engine?

Did it fit well? No engine offset? Rudder either?

I like your hinges. Are you a Dentist?

Did my hinges and I'm not all that happy with the results. Pinking type sides aren't needed, why the stuff is offered that way?

Charles

Jim Thomerson · « **Reply #76 on:** July 22, 2012, 07:11:56 PM »

It needed the heavy hub to get the CG just behind the leading edge wood. When I started out, I was getting about 3 second laps on 60 ft lines; a friend remarked about flying combat stunt. I went to 62 ft. lines, and a smaller venturi, and have it over 4 seconds but not as slow as 5 sec, estimated. Someone told me the single most universal item in American households is dental floss. My dentist gives it to me for free. I've never had a hinge fail.

The kit was pre laser and went together very nicely, with good wood. No engine or rudder offset. It does have a weight box and adjustable leadouts.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #77 on:** July 22, 2012, 07:44:23 PM »

Jim,

Thanks for the info.

Have you used the adjustible leadout yet?

Charles

Jim Thomerson · « **Reply #78 on:** July 22, 2012, 08:17:47 PM »

If you look close you can see the leadouts coming out about level with the little riblet on top of the tip, a little in front of the spar. I start out with the leadouts about where I think they should be and then, usually, move them forward 1/8 in at a time if tension is not to suit me above 45 degrees. Adjusting leadouts is part of the basic trimming of the airplane, along with adjusting the weight box, dealing with warps, etc. I can tell the difference that moving the leadouts 1/8 inch makes in how the airplane flies.

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #79 on:** July 23, 2012, 02:18:59 AM »

Jim, That is a nice plane. I am going to use adjustable leadouts on my next plane. My froward leadout is about an 1/8" forward of yours. The plans called for my CG to be a little behind were you set yours. It still feels a little nose heavy but I'm going to work on getting use to it. Boy yours is fast, I haven't put a clock on mine but it feels about 3.5 on 52' lines. I am using a little engine offset on mine and have less rudder than the plans called for but still some offset. These parasitic drags probably account for our differences in speed, not to mention a completely different engine lol.
John, I pulled the tank apart tonight and am going to fix it. I was being a bit stubborn about it but I've come around lol.
Charles the pinking does help to keep the hinges from fraying as you are gluing them down. They may not be the best most trick way to do it but it is functional. I am going to use dubro hinges in the one I am building right now. I am kinda use to the cloth hinges from my 1/2 A's and juniors. Mine is a little stiff but that is due to the poly being in the elevator joint. It will free up in time. What makes you unhappy with yours? is it just appearance or was it the application process?

Jim Thomerson · « **Reply #80 on:** July 23, 2012, 08:36:28 AM »

If you get the stab and elevator stuck together with finishing material, you can separate them by flossing with a piece of dental floss.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #81 on:** July 23, 2012, 09:30:45 AM »

Quote from: Jim Thomerson on July 23, 2012, 08:36:28 AM

If you get the stab and elevator stuck together with finishing material, you can separate them by flossing with a piece of dental floss.

Jim,

That "Avenger" I show from time to time, only the thickness of fine sandpaper seperates the control surfaces. Single thickness not folded 1500. After each and every coat.

Charles

Avaiojet · « **Reply #82 on:** July 23, 2012, 09:38:20 AM »

Nathan,

the elevators are only .125" thick? Tight squeeze for the Dubro? I may try it on scrap. I can still remove the cloth, applied with dope.

Now I'm thinking using a LA .25 that I have, but the cut out on the fuselage is a tag large. I could fix that.

The Fox .35 fits better. I don't need 3 second laps, I do want to get back into stunt.

How did your engine fit?

Yes, Jim did a wonderful job on his Flite Streak, I believe I'll follow his lead and add a weight box. I hate to take things apart to add an adjustable lead outs. I could be convinced.

Charles

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #83 on:** July 23, 2012, 10:15:34 AM »

My elevator is little thicker at.150. I haven't decided whether I am going to slot them or attach the hinges to the underside of the elevator. That depends on how it goes. I moved my hardwoods in to accommodate my engine. They were too far out. I am not sold on the weight box to tell you the truth. It may help experts or even advanced guys but I am neither and quickly get use to the idiosyncrasies of my airframe. Once I get too the more advanced maneuvers a weightbox may be necessary but not yet. I compare it too a novice buying a 1,000 dollar pool que

It's kind odd about the poly and the hinged areas. They are not stuck together and there is a gap between the two so they are not rubbing but the hinges or something take a little while to free up most of the time. This is exacerbated by a tight fit between the stab and the elevator.

Bill Little · « **Reply #84 on:** July 23, 2012, 11:11:55 AM »

Quote from: Avaiojet on July 23, 2012, 09:38:20 AM

Nathan,
(snip)
Now I'm thinking using a LA .25 that I have, but the cut out on the fuselage is a tag large. I could fix that.

The Fox .35 fits better. I don't need 3 second laps, I do want to get back into stunt.

How did your engine fit?
(snip)
Charles

Hi Charles,

Add shims above and below the maple mounts to get the opening the correct size.

The LA.25 with a 10-4 prop will be about as good as it gets for a Flite Streak engine.

The Fox .35 would also work, just set it up and run it correctly.

Now, get it finished and flying!

Bill

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #85 on:** July 23, 2012, 01:26:35 PM »

Yeah Bill, I had to use small balsa shims to move my beems a little closer. Oddly enough on this new one I had to trim a 1/16 th off to clear my OS 20 FP. I guess I moved thme in just a little too much.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #86 on:** July 24, 2012, 04:59:14 PM »

OK,

My guess is I'll have a better practice airplane for stunt using the LA .25. Bill I purchased the LA .25 engine from your recomendation, you are my peer. But that Fox, after all these years is calling me, so I'm torn. My heart doesn't know what to do?

I'm going to remake tail feathers for the Flite Streak out of 1/16 balsa and use Kleet or Dubro hinges.

Charles

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #87 on:** July 24, 2012, 08:06:33 PM »

Charles, The LA .25 should be great. Just check the balance due to the extr muffler weight and I would definatly run no engine off-set. As for the remade tail feathers I assume the 1/16 is a typo that whould be .0625 and I don't think DUbro hinges would like that. As for Kleet hinges I am unfamiliar with them. Are they the ones that look like jagged spears?

Avaiojet · « **Reply #88 on:** July 25, 2012, 07:18:42 AM »

Quote from: nathan Metzner on July 24, 2012, 08:06:33 PM

Charles, The LA .25 should be great. Just check the balance due to the extr muffler weight and I would definatly run no engine off-set. As for the remade tail feathers I assume the 1/16 is a typo that whould be .0625 and I don't think DUbro hinges would like that. As for Kleet hinges I am unfamiliar with them. Are they the ones that look like jagged spears?

Nathan,

You're to kind. Thanks.

I meant 5/16" for the tail feathers. The kit is 1/8".

Klett hinges are identical to the Dubro except for the pin.

I have a tongue muffler for the LA .25.

Put my weight box in this morning. Maybe the weight of the box will be enough?

Hows your line tension? Exactly where are your leadouts located?

I know you were working on your lap time. How's that going?

Charles

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #89 on:** July 25, 2012, 12:41:38 PM »

Charles, my forward leadout is 2.5 inches from the leading edge. I haven't gotten chance tto fly in the past couple days so I haven't done much with my lap times yet. All the data from the first time I took her out I had to toss because the loose vents were causing fuel foaming. Since I've fixed that I have only got two flights on her. 5/16 elevator should make hinging it easier and I doubt it will need ny bracing. My stab and elevator are between 1/8 and 3/16. I guess it is some metric deal IDK. They are .150. I'd use 3/16th if I didn't have this slightly thicker than 1/8 wood. With the added weight of the tail you may be able to run a full muffler without adding any tail weight. I used an ounce of wingtip weight and My plane flys straight meaning I cannot see the other wing in any of the maneuvers that I can do. My line tention is good but not great I have some expierements to run such as removing my engine offset and stuff like that but I really want to get my lap times around 4 seconds before I do that. Sorta 1 step forward and 2 back kinda deal

By good line tention I mean to say that it pulls all the time but it isn't trying to pull your arm outta socket like my father's Magician. This maybe the way a FS is I don't have enough experience to know any different. Last night I started cutting my elevtor for the dubro hinges, what a pain in the @ss. I was using the dubro tool but it was more inacurate than I could do with my eye so I changed over to a standard x-acto knife and then used the dubro gouging tool to remove the necessary wood. This made it better now it only takes about 15 minutes to do one half of one hinge. If this doesn't work I may just run home to mamma and go back to the cloth hinges.

Bill Little · « **Reply #90 on:** July 25, 2012, 01:33:17 PM »

HI Nathan,

Don't count out cloth hinges as a very viable solution. You can get basically a "fully" sealed hinge line by using cloth which will make a big difference in the flying characteristics. I use the thinnest nylon taffeta I could find. It doesn't rot like linen hinges do over time and it is very "pliable".

Bill

Avaiojet · « **Reply #91 on:** July 25, 2012, 01:37:07 PM »

Nathan,

Sorry, I don't know why I said 5/16". I meant 3/16". Yea, that Dubro tool, you can't squeese it to much you'll crush the wood.

Thanks for those measurements. I'm 2.5" on the first leadout also and the other is .5" behind that.

I guess I'll plug in the LA .25, even though I'll have to fix the engine opening. Another task.

Yes, engine offset. Some say they don't use any. Let me know how you make out there?

Gear! Some guys are using two wheels on their Flite Streaks, did you see that Thread? I don't have the money for a second wheel.

Besides, I made my wire from your measurements.

Charles

Avaiojet · « **Reply #92 on:** July 25, 2012, 01:39:38 PM »

Quote from: Bill Little on July 25, 2012, 01:33:17 PM

HI Nathan,Don't count out cloth hinges as a very viable solution. You can get basically a "fully" sealed hinge line by using cloth which will make a big difference in the flying characteristics. I use the thinnest nylon taffeta I could find. It doesn't rot like linen hinges do over time and it is very "pliable".Bill

Bill,

We were posting at the same time.

Where do you get that material? Do you go over and under?

Charles

Bill Little · « **Reply #93 on:** July 25, 2012, 01:46:53 PM »

Quote from: Avaiojet on July 25, 2012, 01:39:38 PM

Bill,

We were posting at the same time.

Where do you get that material? Do you go over and under?

Charles

I bought the material at Wal Mart. Any fabric place should have it. I do go "over/under" and keep them very close together and go across the entire hinge line. Really helps since it is like "sealing" the hinge line.

Bill

Avaiojet · « **Reply #94 on:** July 25, 2012, 02:03:15 PM »

Quote from: Bill Little on July 25, 2012, 01:46:53 PM

I bought the material at Wal Mart. Any fabric place should have it. I do go "over/under" and keep them very close together and go across the entire hinge line. Really helps since it is like "sealing" the hinge line.
Bill

Bill,

I'm always in Wal Mart, I buy my suits there.

Exactly what do I ask for?

You use dope to glue them?

Charles

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #95 on:** July 25, 2012, 02:10:07 PM »

I have used cloth hinges almost exclusively. However, I use the linen type that I get from Brodak or somewheres else. I have never had a "sealed" hinge line. How does this change things? I have researched hinging on this site and often people refer to the "sealed" hinge line yet I can find little that explains the benefit of such a practice. I am planning on painting this model so I have been at an impass as to whether I should install the hinges before or after paint and body work.
Charles, as for the wheels I like my one wheel setup I have had no troubles on landing but like I said my plane flys very level and it glides really really really well. I have no real accurate way to weigh it but I am guessing it is quite lite.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #96 on:** July 25, 2012, 02:49:38 PM »

Nathan,

I cannot speak for CL model planes, but I flew R/C pattern and built many pattern planes. Guys would call them pattern ships. I still called them planes.

Sealing the hinge line "opening," that is, the space between the TE and the control surface, offered advantages in flight performance. At least this was believed. Imagine a .125" space then no space at all. No air loss?

Some of these pattern guys would use tape to seal the hinge opening. I never used tape. I always built my pattern airplanes with really closed control surface openings. I would close the opening with construction, then control the space/gap during finishing with a sheet of 1500 sandpaper. I'm sure the CL guys get them tighter. Some paint these control surfaces off the model then attach them afterwards in different ways. I'm still trying to get more info on that.

There's this long wire method used as a single hinge pin, but I don't quite understand how you can get a tight gap with this system?

I have a design on the board where I would like to attach all the control surfaces after paint and finish.

Charles

Bill Little · « **Reply #97 on:** July 25, 2012, 03:04:46 PM »

I use cloth hinges a LOT, especially if it is a Classic plane. I always put them in place before I cover the model. This way you can make them virtually disappear. With the hinges going the entire span, you do not have to (or want to) have the parts too tight to each other. This allows the control surfaces to be very free acting. You can attach the hinges with dope like you would cover with or using model airplane cement like Ambroid or Sigment.

On plastic hinges you always need to inset the hinge barrel into the LE of the control surface (like the elevator). This tightens up the gap, and then use clear tape to "seal" the hingeline. You can completely finish all the parts before you assemble them. You only need to glue the hinges in their slots.

If you want to try the nylon taffeta (it's cheap) just ask for "nylon taffeta".

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #98 on:** July 25, 2012, 03:08:50 PM »

Charles, you dont strive for a TIGHT fit,, you strive for a consistant fit,, then you use the tape to seal the gap... a tight gap without tape is actually worse because a .005 variation in a .02 gap is far more significant than a .005 variation in a .0625,, so instead of trying to achieve that perfect spacing,, ( because it will vary with air loads and the flexibility of control surfaces,, ) you use tape carefully applied over the hingline to seal the airflow,,

again, some time using the search feature perhaps searching ( sealed hingelines) will uncover far more extensive discussion than I am prepared to retype here,, as will searching for ( removable control surfaces)

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #99 on:** July 25, 2012, 04:42:49 PM »

Just got back from the field. My laps clocked in at 3.78-3.82 seconds on 52 foot lines. My overall run time is a whopping 7.5 minutes lol. That old O.S. .25 is a fuel sipper. I had all kinds of fun and my engine and needle setting are getting better each flight. I'm starting to be able to get a wet to dry break. Dry not being the correct word but you get the meaning.
Mark, I apologize for being an inconvieniance to you. I have done searches for hinging methods and was unsure of the reasoning behind sealed hinges. Perhaps, in the future, I will refrain from questions that have been already asked, so as not to bother the more seasoned posters.
Bill and Charles, I haven't tried the nylon yet maybe on a future build. Right now I am enjoying beating my head against the wall with these dubros LOL. I have always finished after hinging when using cloth and will probably do the sme here. I am betting that the nylon ones would be easier to cover-up. Thanks again guys for the input and advice.