Author Topic: Brodak Flight Streak (Read 22024 times)

nathan Metzner · « **on:** July 01, 2012, 04:31:35 PM »

I am building a Brodak Flight Streak and I'm getting down to the last sections. So far the kit has been great, much better than the sterling kit I have been fooling with for years. The only issue I have had is the inner ribs ren't cut correctly. They are suppose to be 1/8" smaller than the outer ribs to allow for sheeting; however, the taper or trailing edge of them is too tall and the section for the triling edge is too long. With a little sanding this has been corrected. Another issue is that the bellcrank platform does not sit level in the wing. This is due to the inner ribs being incorrect and the support wood being to low. I shimmed the support rod and epoxied it ll together. I t is a real pleasure working with laser cut kits I do not think I'll ever go back. I'll post a picture tonight or tomorrow.

Geoff Goodworth · « **Reply #1 on:** July 01, 2012, 05:50:58 PM »

As one who has produced plans and cutting sheets for John Brodak, I'm surprised that there is a problem—especially one that has not been widely discussed.

Contct John and seek his assistance. John usually builds a prototype of every kit that he offers before he runs production quantities and releases the model to the market.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #2 on:** July 01, 2012, 07:54:17 PM »

As Geoff says, why not go to Brodak with the complaints. I did with the Tomahawk kit that was supposed to be the early version. Week later had the correct kit. Paid for the new version anyway as I wanted them both.

Jim Thomerson · « **Reply #3 on:** July 02, 2012, 08:32:13 AM »

I have built the pre laser cut Brodak Flitestreak and Jr. Flitestreak and did not find any issues.

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #4 on:** July 02, 2012, 11:04:51 AM »

Don't get me wrong I am not complaining, I love the kit. It is so easy to build that it seems like cheating. I was just mentioning this one little idiosyncrasy. I can't wait to get it done. Jim, maybe I have a different cutting of the kit or something? I have no idea. I do wish there was a little more fudge room on the leading and trailing edges. My plans didn't quite match the spar, the plans mentioned this but it made it a little quirky getting the trailing edge right. Overall this is the finest kit I have worked with and would highly recommend it to anyone.

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #5 on:** July 02, 2012, 08:55:17 PM »

How do you put adjustable leadouts on a plane with a spar running between the lead out wires? The adjustable guide I bought has the line spacing set to about 1" this would be almost useless with the spar in between the leadout wires. m I better off just going with the plan and using fixed leadouts? If so, does anyone know of a set deviation from the plan that works better than the stock loction?

Jim Thomerson · « **Reply #6 on:** July 02, 2012, 09:41:33 PM »

Draw on the plans the extremes of where you think your lines might go, then cut the spar and ribs so that the lines will clear. Install your controls and move the leadout guide back and forth, then trim where you did not get it exactly right.

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #7 on:** July 02, 2012, 10:45:24 PM »

Jim, LOL I looked at tht and I would have to do some serious surgery to get this one piece adjuster too work. The ribs in this kit are thinner than I would like to be cutting that much. I think the seperate adjusters re the hot ticket and I only have a single. The plans have the fore leadout cable within .5" from the spar so I can't see bothering with it this time. I'm probably just gonna rock with the solid guides. Next build I'll know what to expect.

philip metzner · « **Reply #8 on:** July 05, 2012, 08:49:56 AM »

Is 1 oz. of tip weight what you guys recommend? The plan calls for it.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #9 on:** July 05, 2012, 10:33:08 AM »

Put a wieght box in and that will probably be enough. In the old days we started with 3/4 ounce and added to it if needed.

Bill Little · « **Reply #10 on:** July 07, 2012, 01:58:42 PM »

Nathan, I say go ahead and build it per the plans. MANY have been done that way over the years and have flown very well. Just make sure things are straight and aligned well. You will enjoy it! (it was my son's first "big" model and we still have it)

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

Avaiojet · « **Reply #11 on:** July 07, 2012, 04:28:04 PM »

Is the Brodak, Flite Streak, the same as the original kit?

Charles

Dennis Moritz · « **Reply #12 on:** July 07, 2012, 09:53:35 PM »

Two piece leading edge, instead of the Top Flite hollowed out solid wood. I read somewhere that George actually built the original leading edge the way the Brodak kit is built. Same dagger front ribs, a built up trailing edge instead of solid wood. I prefer the Brodak Streak. Conventional leading edge. Those dagger front ribs never seem to mate perfectly with the hollowed out leading edges in the Brodak or Top Flite version. Perhaps the laser cutting has solved the issue. Streaks are versatile and fly great.

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #13 on:** July 08, 2012, 02:37:42 PM »

As Dennis said. The Brodak kit is suppose to be exactly as GA designed it. I am building it pretty much stock with few changes. The rib points do fit much better except the inner ribs are a little funky.

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #14 on:** July 09, 2012, 02:19:18 PM »

I fit the wing to the fuse. Pulled it out and am in the process of polying the fuse right now. Hopefully by weeks end she will be together and waiting till I'm satisfied with the cure time for the poly.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #15 on:** July 10, 2012, 09:07:21 AM »

If you put the poly-span down with dope, it will not take long to finish/glue. Now where are the pics?

Avaiojet · « **Reply #16 on:** July 10, 2012, 10:48:00 AM »

What engine are most guys using in the Flite Streak?

I was going to use a .25, but I thought I might use my old Fox .35 or the Johnson .35.

Thats what we had in them back then.

Charles

Dennis Moritz · « **Reply #17 on:** July 10, 2012, 11:34:21 AM »

LA25s or FP25s make for a docile stunt trainer. If you run a wet 2-stroke. Guess if you needle it in you'll get more speed. Streaks are versatile. Work well flown at moderate speed. Or. As in days passed. Power it up with a Fox Combat special. On bladder. The most spectacular Flite Streak I know, an original Top Flight kit done in silk (I think), belongs to Ken and Shawn Cook. A Mark 3 Fox on35% nitro. I always stop and look when they put it up. Fabulous. Nostalgia that shakes teeth.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #18 on:** July 10, 2012, 01:03:34 PM »

OK.

So I could practice the pattern with a Flite Streak and a .25?

Charles

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #19 on:** July 10, 2012, 03:04:09 PM »

Charles, I am using an old, old, old OS .25 on this one. I am going to build spare plane using an OS .20 FP these are suppose to be great on a streak.

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #20 on:** July 10, 2012, 03:05:38 PM »

From what I have been told an LA .25 is just fine for stunt practicing with the streak. An FP .25 may prove a little difficult to keep tame.

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #21 on:** July 10, 2012, 03:08:29 PM »

Pictures Finally. I still have a few more sanding coats of poly left to apply to the fuse.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #22 on:** July 10, 2012, 03:30:35 PM »

Looking real good!!

Everything is placed! Sweet!

"Poly?" Did you say "poly."

Certainly not Polly wants a cracker. Must be Polyester? Did I get it right?

Are you using Polyester resin?

Charles

Bill Little · « **Reply #23 on:** July 10, 2012, 03:34:32 PM »

Quote from: Avaiojet on July 10, 2012, 03:30:35 PM

Looking real good!!

Everything is placed! Sweet!

"Poly?" Did you say "poly."

Certainly not Polly wants a cracker. Must be Polyester? Did I get it right?

Are you using Polyester resin?

Charles

I really believe he is referring to Min Wax Polycrylic......... many use it to fill raw balsa.

Bill

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #24 on:** July 10, 2012, 03:44:08 PM »

Thanks Guys, I have made a few little modifictions such as small braces from the elevator to the fuse and a different tail skid and I squared off the top of the canopy. I am using minwax polyurethane for the fuse and an inch of the center sheeting on either side of the fuse. I'm gonna iron some "mess" on the wings and get to the air :-) I have used this method before and it works like a champ. the first coat or two soaks into the wood and helps fill. These get mostly sanded off then it gets one coat and I'll stripe it then one more top coat and it's done. This has been very fuel proof for me.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #25 on:** July 10, 2012, 06:33:59 PM »

Nathan,

Will you use the pushrod wire that came with the kit?

Or will you opt for a higher tech.

Charles

Bill Little · « **Reply #26 on:** July 10, 2012, 06:48:08 PM »

I still use just a plain music wire pushrod on flapless stunt planes. As long as you use a fairlead about 1/2 way from bell crank to elevator horn to prevent flexing, you are good to go.

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #27 on:** July 10, 2012, 06:54:36 PM »

Charles, What bill said lol. I am going to use the wire; however, I will not split mine. I get real detail oriented and bend it. I am going to use a brace in between the bell crank and the control horn. I shy away from the real high tech stuff cause I'm not tlented enough to make proper use of it. Milllion dollar airplane and ten cents worth of skill. I'll be keeping this one as simple as I can.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #28 on:** July 10, 2012, 07:19:13 PM »

Quote from: nathan Metzner on July 10, 2012, 06:54:36 PM

Charles, What bill said lol. I am going to use the wire; however, I will not split mine. I get real detail oriented and bend it. I am going to use a brace in between the bell crank and the control horn. I shy away from the real high tech stuff cause I'm not tlented enough to make proper use of it. Milllion dollar airplane and ten cents worth of skill. I'll be keeping this one as simple as I can.

Nathan,

That's what I was going to do. I didn't want to bother with other stuff, I have one right in the box.

A while back Bill suggested an LA .25. I'll use that.

How are you going to finish yours?

Charles

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #29 on:** July 10, 2012, 07:31:08 PM »

I'm finishing the fuse with polyurethane and covering the wings with monocote. I'm using sky blue and tan. Nothing too fancy but it'll look nice till I crash it lol. The clear poly gives the fuse a neat look almost like oak.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #30 on:** July 10, 2012, 08:21:41 PM »

Quote from: nathan Metzner on July 10, 2012, 07:31:08 PM

I'm finishing the fuse with polyurethane and covering the wings with monocote. I'm using sky blue and tan. Nothing too fancy but it'll look nice till I crash it lol. The clear poly gives the fuse a neat look almost like oak.

Nathan,

That's the oil base Miniwax you're using, not the water base? Could stain the wood. I mentioned that.

Charles

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #31 on:** July 11, 2012, 12:20:23 AM »

Yeah It's oil based. We have several cans of it. I m using a spar polyurethane on this one. The can is a little old so it's pretty dark compared to a new can. The poly yellows with age. Right now it has golden honey type of color and to me it looks great.

Paul Smith · « **Reply #32 on:** July 11, 2012, 05:10:37 AM »

Quote from: nathan Metzner on July 02, 2012, 08:55:17 PM

How do you put adjustable leadouts on a plane with a spar running between the lead out wires? The adjustable guide I bought has the line spacing set to about 1" this would be almost useless with the spar in between the leadout wires. m I better off just going with the plan and using fixed leadouts? If so, does anyone know of a set deviation from the plan that works better than the stock location?

You have hit upon on the major problem of moving the leadouts on any small model. The weakening of the wing to create the clearance for the leadouts. The top & bottom are cut apart except for the LE & TE.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #33 on:** July 11, 2012, 07:24:43 AM »

One of the things about teaching new people when building from kits . Follow the instructions. Brodak, SIG and a few others have very good instruction manuals. I built the Brodak Original Magician box stock as I could. If I can only get it back from my grandson. Guess I will have to break down and build Walters version of the Original Magician.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #34 on:** July 11, 2012, 09:49:58 AM »

Nathan,

Are you increasing the size of the elevator or keeping it as from the kit.

I was going to increase mine seeing I have no flaps. Maybe I'll add flaps?

Charles

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #35 on:** July 11, 2012, 10:42:30 AM »

I'm keeping the elevator the same. If this plane is blanced properly it will turn on a dime. I don't know if I would add movable flaps to this irframe unless you wanna try your hand at combat flying lol. The Fuse is so short compare to the wing span added to the lighter engines that we now use and this thing will turn, at least thats what I am told.

I bought the adjustable leadouts that were recommended from brodak; the brodak plans also come with an instruction sheet for aadjustable leadouts; however, the instruction sheet is based on a plane without a solid spar and the ribs were hollow. If I had it to do over again, which I do

, I will buy the seperate line adjustable rather than the set line spaced one. I also would have made thicker ribs s the ones suplied re not thick enough to support being hollowed out. So for now sticking with the basic plan except very minor changes.

Balsa Butcher · « **Reply #36 on:** July 11, 2012, 10:53:10 AM »

Doc has it right - build it per plans and have fun. Sometimes we over-analyze and overbuild what at heart should be a simple sport/combat/stunt plane. Learn from this build and save all the tricky stuff for a full-on stunter.

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #37 on:** July 11, 2012, 10:58:42 AM »

That's the idea Pete. I have flown the wings off of junior sized planes and a ton of 1/2a's. I can't wait to get into the ring with 60' lines. I hve flown some bigger planes but they were not my own so I haven't really "flown" them yet.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #38 on:** July 11, 2012, 12:29:45 PM »

Quote from: nathan Metzner on July 11, 2012, 10:58:42 AM

That's the idea Pete. I have flown the wings off of junior sized planes and a ton of 1/2a's. I can't wait to get into the ring with 60' lines. I hve flown some bigger planes but they were not my own so I haven't really "flown" them yet.

Nathan,

OK, so you will not have adjustable leadouts? Weight box? What are your minor changes?

This will be my third Flite Streak. My second hit a silo, had little time on it. It did have flaps and a shortened tail, you're right, the thing turned on a dime with a Fox .35. I had a Johnson .35 on my first FS.

I'm close to covering mine. There's a decision I wish I didn't have to make.

More Photos!

Charles

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #39 on:** July 11, 2012, 12:43:58 PM »

Na no adjustable leadouts on this one. I followed the plans pretty much on except I braced the elevator on either side of the fuse with a 1/4 triangle stock. I also made my own tailskid, I didn't like the little round one and I squared off the top of the canopy. I epoxyed in 1 oz. of stick on wheel weights to the outbourd rib. I split the difference of the weight between my spar. I also matched the angle of the leadouts with the angle of my leadout supports. The plans had them pretty much straight. I'm also adding a piece of nylon bushing through the fuse to support the control wire brace. My brace will go all the way through but will tighten up on the nylon bushing rather than the balsa. I also added a little rake to the gear, the plans had it straight up and I wnted a little more than that to keep it from folding back. Other than that she is a stock FS.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #40 on:** July 11, 2012, 02:35:05 PM »

Quote from: nathan Metzner on July 11, 2012, 12:43:58 PM

Na no adjustable leadouts on this one. I followed the plans pretty much on except I braced the elevator on either side of the fuse with a 1/4 triangle stock. I also made my own tailskid, I didn't like the little round one and I squared off the top of the canopy. I epoxyed in 1 oz. of stick on wheel weights to the outbourd rib. I split the difference of the weight between my spar. I also matched the angle of the leadouts with the angle of my leadout supports. The plans had them pretty much straight. I'm also adding a piece of nylon bushing through the fuse to support the control wire brace. My brace will go all the way through but will tighten up on the nylon bushing rather than the balsa. I also added a little rake to the gear, the plans had it straight up and I wnted a little more than that to keep it from folding back. Other than that she is a stock FS.

Nathan,

I just noticed, 86 posts! Where the hell have you been? I hope to see more of yourself and your models.

It's because of your Flite Streak build that I'm building mine again. Honestly. I took the model off the shelf just last night, to finish it up! Believe me it's true.

Look at what I was doing. I had The New American and The International builds, Plus I was working on my Corsair.

I started my FS months ago and lost interest in it. I do that.

You don't think Modelers inspire? Well, you'd be wrong. Your Build, photos and response to all questions, what a guy! Thank you so much!!

Mine's almost ready to cover.

No adjustable leadouts, no weight box. Simple Brodak bellcrank. I like your idea of the brace on the tail feathers. I'll do that also. Sharing, see how sharing works!

I added 1/16" x 1/8" laminations to the wingtips, top and bottom. More material for my covering to stick to.

That's a good idea with your nylon brace. A hard spot. I'll sink in a dowel with a "T" nut and use nylon also, I have something someplace bent at 90 degrees.

I'm guessing you trimmed the ribs for bellcrank and wire movement?

I'll locate both leadouts close to each other, probably a half inch apart and a half or five eights behind the CG. Bellcrank is almost on the CG. I'm fine with it's location on the plans.

OK, C O L O R

Got any plans for that yet!?

I'm excited, When I put this model away, I didn't think I would ever finish it.

Thanks again,

Charles

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #41 on:** July 11, 2012, 05:31:19 PM »

Thanks Charles, It's awesome to get good feedback. I have the fuse almost done. I still have to clear the canopy and I need to go over my stripe a time or two more. My wings will be Sky Blue and Beige.

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #42 on:** July 11, 2012, 05:35:09 PM »

I looked at your builds Charles, you build some fine equipment. I like your idea of a thicker wing tip for covering, thats genious. I did some trimming to the ribs for clearance but not much. I kept my leadouts close to the plans but mine are a little closer and my forward is a little back. The amount of trimming necessary was minimal.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #43 on:** July 11, 2012, 06:25:21 PM »

Quote from: nathan Metzner on July 11, 2012, 05:35:09 PM

I looked at your builds Charles, you build some fine equipment. I like your idea of a thicker wing tip for covering, thats genious. I did some trimming to the ribs for clearance but not much. I kept my leadouts close to the plans but mine are a little closer and my forward is a little back. The amount of trimming necessary was minimal.

Nathan,

Thanks for taking the peak, "YOU AIN"T SEEN NOTHIN YET!!"

You won't believe what I have on the board.

I might tell you if you can you keep secrets?

What did you use for hinges? I have no material for that. Trip to the HS and they won't have any.

If I had iron on stuff around I would use it. I have to perfect silking, and I'm new to it. Would be best to have some meat for the silk to stick, that's why I did the tips. Added strength also. Yes, I know it's genius.

How was your wood? Unfortunately my TE is bowed. So is my LE. In different directions. I'm toying with the idea of taking them out. I probably won't.

I like your skid, I'll use a length of wire.

Your fuse looks great! I'll bet it's lighter than the one I have, which is direct from a TF kit. I can deal with weight, I just care about looks. I see your brace, that's genius! I'll copy that also.

I moved my leadouts close to each other. Always did it that way, one over one under. I use brass always did that too.

I like your beige and sky blue idea, kinda like the late 30's or 40's. Popular colors then.

I might steal your beige. Is that OK? I only have dark blue silk, which I never ordered.

I have to find an accent color that works with dark blue silk and beige. I can do that on the MAC.

Did you use the wire gear from the kit? I can't find mine. Enough prop clearance with it? Wing tip skids?

That piece of furniture, nice BTW, your using it for a cradle, that's genius! Some of our furniture is old but nothing I could use like that. Bummer!

How far along will you get tonight?

Charles

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #44 on:** July 11, 2012, 06:54:24 PM »

I doubt I'll get much farther on it, the poly takes while to cure. I may finish polying the canopy once it dries though. You are more than welcome to use the beige, I like color combos like that. I used the fabric hinges glued in with testors quick dry, I did them first with CA and didn't like it so I redid them and the CA left the wood a little lighter because it won't soke up the poly. My kitwa from brodak with two piece leading and trailing edges they were dead nuts straight, or pretty close to it. Yeah I used the wire that came with it I just leaned it back a touch. No tip skid needed with the monokote, for silk you may need a little something. Prop clearance is cool I'm running a 9" and the plane was designed for a 10". Beige, Dark Blue, hot frikin pink accents.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #45 on:** July 12, 2012, 05:49:34 PM »

Nathan,

Hey! Bring us up to sate!

Your Poly cure yet? That stuff dries fuel proof?

I may add flaps to me FS. I had them on the one that hit the silo.

I'm using CA hinges. Never used them before, maybe I should buy cloth material from a supplier.

Any new photos?

I almost forgot! I found two cans of a real pale yellow, almost beige but not quite. I need accent!

Charles

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #46 on:** July 15, 2012, 09:22:34 PM »

OOOps I just posted an accidental pic anyway so... lol.... I've started covering. The control horn is mounted, I chose to install my control wire into the second from the bottom hole. The brodak horn has four positions. I've got about 30 degrees movement on my elevator which I am fine with to start. The control wire brace was a sinch, I used a nylon spacer and drilled a hole all the way through the fuse and epoxied the spacer in there.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #47 on:** July 16, 2012, 05:58:35 PM »

Nathan,

Great start! looks like paint!

Charles

nathan Metzner · « **Reply #48 on:** July 16, 2012, 08:12:57 PM »

Thanks it's come out alright so far. I still haven't done the other side, maybe later tonight or tomorrow sometime. I'm getting close. I'll get some good pictures when it's done. How's yours coming along?

Avaiojet · « **Reply #49 on:** July 17, 2012, 08:42:32 AM »

Quote from: nathan Metzner on July 16, 2012, 08:12:57 PM

Thanks it's come out alright so far. I still haven't done the other side, maybe later tonight or tomorrow sometime. I'm getting close. I'll get some good pictures when it's done. How's yours coming along?

Nathan,

Looks like paint, tastes like chicken!

I'm sure hundreds of Flite Streaks have been built and posted as Build Threads but that doesn't matter, this is still your first Flite Streak build!

I'm glad you're excited about it. Don't loose that enthusiasm.

My FS is gaining weight, I just added half ribs to help keep the bow out. Staying straight so far or straighter than it was. Pool bleach is great stuff, only off an 1/8" now tip to tip.

I'm ordering cloth hing material from Brodak today and maybe a weight box. My luck the box will get filled and I'll have to strap weight on. Maybe two boxes?

Hey! Photos tomorrow of your Flite Streak progress?

Charles