Nathan,

There's another way, keeping in mind that not only must the tank be secured properly, it ought be readily adjustable, and be a light installation.

Obtain either 2-56- or 4-40-sized inner rods from one of those tube-in-a-tube pushrod sets so commonly used in RC models.

Drill suitably sized holes in your fuselage, two on upper side of tank, two on the bottom. Give these a vertical  spacing which will allow moving the tank up and down at least 1/4 inch, quite likely more if using the Hayes 3-ounce tank. (This tank is not symmetrical and typically needs to be mounted about 3/16" high.)

Noting the pilot holes need to be a little tight (13/64" if using 4-40 tube) pound in short lengths of this tubing. Hit them with thin CA.

Now you need some hooks and these are easily bent up from that threaded-one-end metal rod (again used in many RC control systems) available at Local Hobby. (It's worth noting that SIG sells 4-40 threaded hooks which are ready to use, although they are sometimes a bit short for my applications.) Lots of ways to bend these hooks and I prefer to use snipe-nose pliers.

Screw hooks into receptacles installed per above.

Install tank. Yes, you can use rubber bands even if that's quite tacky. Or there are lots of .060- and .090-inch "O" rings out there which you will find handy and quite reliable.

Note that tank is now free to move up and down under flight loads. During first tests it's okay to make balsa or ply shims of various thicknesses in order to shim tank to whatever height seems correct. I typically use shims as thin as 1/64-inch with the rest thicker. (Later on, with tank in "magic" position, you can fabricate shims which will not get soaked with oil.)

At the field you can run the engine while a helper holds. Get an rpm reading both upright and inverted. Any differences will be a clue as to shimming tank.

Fly the model. Even with above test it probably won't be right. Shim accordingly, noting that you will merely be, for example, removing an upper shim and replacing it below the tank. Total shim stack stays the same, meaning there are no issues with measuring, counting shims and so on.

Do not be satisfied with flying tests which are limited to upright and inverted flight. Fly maneuvers instead with horizontal 8s being valuable although not necessarily the final word, depending upon how experienced you are and how critical you want to be in getting the best engine runs possible.

Dan

Yep, that will work well, ,seen it,, pretty dagnabit precise too,,

(Clip)

Here's one wing panel silked with Sig dope. only three more left.  

Charles

Charles,

I guess you can can cover and dope one wing panel at a time if you want to.  It is a good way to get some uncontrolled warps.  But you should not recommend it to a less experienced builder. If I remember right, you were warned about this with that rudder thing you did.

Keith

Charles,I guess you can can cover and dope one wing panel at a time if you want to.  It is a good way to get some uncontrolled warps.  But you should not recommend it to a less experienced builder. If I remember right, you were warned about this with that rudder thing you did.
Keith

Keith,

I have never told anyone on this Forum how to do anything, ever. I just say what I do.

You are correct, I was told not to apply dope when both sides of a wing or rudder were not completely silked. Good advice actually.

I have only one coat of non shrinking dope on that wing. Still straight as an arrow since the swimming pool fix.

I'm impatient and couldn't resist applying that coat.

Your past advice has paid off, I can now silk a wing. Not with total confidence, mind you, but I'm getting it done.

Thanks for your help.

Charles

As you can see the day was not without casualties lol. I went into inverted way to high and it didn't go well. It's all part of learning so I am not upset but man I wish it broke in an easier spot.

Nathan,

Sorry about your loss, bummer.

Any plans on how you're going to do the fix?

second Flite Streak looks great so far. I see those evenly spaced Dubro hinges. I have the same, Klett actually, but left the center one off.

I'll get a photo.

Photos of your repair?

Charles

a doubler of balsa behind the spar, and leading edge even 1/16 will make a large difference.

She's ready to go again. I think it's gonna rain so I'll probably not get to try it out this evening but I'm glad it's done. I had to cut the damaged section of the leading edge off and reattach it in two places because the wing would not slide back together square with it in one piece. Once I cut that out I was able to slide the detached section of the leading edge into the break point and slide the rest of the wing back into the broken edge while keeping everything straight and level. I epoxied that all together by applying epoxy into the joint edges. Once that l hardened I began gusseting. The spar got triangle gussets on either side of the break point and I recessed the top and bottom caps and epoxied 3/32 ply. I also recessed the leading edge in two sections one on top and one on bottom and epoxied 3/32 ply. I put the leading edge gussets over the area that I cut rather than the break area because the break joint was extremely ragged and with the epoxy I figure that should make a strong joint. However, the gussets to catch part of the original break. Pictures are worth more than words Soooo. I almost forgot I also had another spar area that was damaged by a piece of prop. I just cut a piece of 1/16 to fit and epoxied it in back of the damaged section. There was also many rib fractures nd breaks that I fixed.

Yeah Bill, I just wish I knew what my mistake was lol. I willtry to go into inverted from a tighter loop. That over head stuff still confuses me lol.

I came in from an inside loop. I just let the loop get big. I seriously do not know what happened. I thought I had it and then whammy it just went straight into the dirt lol. I don't remember putting incorrect input into the handle. I think I just didn't put enough "wheels" input in. From the height it was coming it was similar to a wing over and I just wasn't ready for it. I should have aborted it when I knew I was too high to be comfortable. My dad mentioned the method of extending lazy 8's I may give this a try.

LOL umm nope the ground torn my durn wing off lol. Yeah I cleaned and took everything apart. I did get a chance to fly her today and everything is great. I did change fuel to Omega with 4 oz. of castor and the engine runs better. The wet too dry 2 stroke was wonderful. She seemed to loaf around flat and gets to town when manuevered. I am super pleased. These were some of the best runs I've had with her yet. It sounds crazy but I think my engine is finally breaking in. I didn't know how many hours were on it prior to me getting it but it has left grey matter on my covering until today and boy did it run great. I didn't try for inverted tody but it's coming. 

I got er up on er back and flew about three or four laps before I crashed it again. I know it's all part of the show but it's kinda annoying. I had to pull the rest of the wing out and am begining the repairs. It's pretty bad off but it'll go back together.

That's awesome Charles. I don't have another 40"+ model. Thats why I am building another FS LOL. I have a junior that needs some repairs and a 1/2A that I do not like but no other big boys. On the field repairs don't exactly work with broke off wings lol. I had to pull the wing outta the fuse to get at this break. I'll get her back together in a day or two. Flying inverted is a bit.. I got out of the manuever and flew it about three laps the first one was just to try and get it settled then I tried to bring it out and didn't put enough control into it and it ended up behind my head and I flew it up stairs for a lap and then I brought it back down to try and get it off its back and the wind gave it a good push and I wasn't able to save it. We had a super bad corner because of the wind and I shouldn't have even tried it but hey it's all about learning so I don't mind wrecking my stuff if I am making progress. I can't stand wrecking cause of dumb stuff like hitting a rut on takeoff and the model coming in on you and then it bounces nd pulls the handle out of your hand and then does a wing over by itself and pummels itself into the ground. That peeves me off but not a manuever that ends in pieces that is just part of the game. 

I'm putting it back together, it's gonna take some time though. I'm also erning where to bolster the airframe. I would suggest using some hardwood inserts in the spar top and bottom caps from one side of the center sheeting to the other. If I remember you re using a one piece leading edge which is probably stronger than my two piece but I'm inserting hardwood doublers in the leading edge as well. It's all learning and I love learnin.

Charles I would not omit the rudder. The plane was designed with it. If it was not needed I am sure the George would have omitted it. Due to decreased engine weight and increased power added to adjustable leadouts and weight boxes the need for lots of rudder offset have diminished;however, I would not start with no rudder. I would simply apply less offset. I am not feeling up to pictures of this mess lol. I'll be posting mainly pictures of the progress on the second FS rather than the pieces of the one I'm flying.

I'm trying to be conscious of the weight but I am tired of the wing breaking so close to the fuse. If I can beef it up in that area so that it will break further out then it will be easier to repair. Oh did I mention that I am getting a 4-2 break out of my OS that is a hoot.

You say you have a 1/2A plane? Is it capable of inverted flight? If so, use it to learn then switch to the larger model. That is how I taught my son to fly inverted after he wrecked 3 larger planes. He used a Brodak Wildcat without landing gear. A 1/2 Flite Streak would be even better. Flown over grass crashes are usually a non-event with 1/2A models, a good thing when you are learning.

Nathan,

Where the hell are ya!

This Post has been idle for way to long.

Got my Flite Streak silked, all four panels! only 400 coats of dope, but who's counting. Weight box too! 

Still without the tail. Much easier and less costly to ship this way, I may sell it when completed. The buyer can apply the tail.

Colors anyone?

Charles