A conventional clunk tank should work fine, as long as the vent line (that lets air or exhaust into the tank) is near the inboard edge of the tank, that is, the side the ullage resides once it takes off. Any other vent should be blocked off for flight. This will give you a classic "suction" tank that leans out as the flight progresses - which is generally a small effect if the venturi is the right size.
I would suggest starting with muffler pressure attached to the vent, but you can try it with an open vent, too.
Since you have a throttle, you should be able to play the throttle VS the mixture to get it right speed and acceptable mixture at the same time. *if it was me* I would seek out a throttle position that permit the engine to run in a rich-medium 2-stroke in level flight, and then it should lean out in the maneuvers.
Part of the issue is that the engine you have is likely to be *far too powerful* for the airplane. Using an 11-3 prop should help it be more inefficient so that's a good starting point, and being able to effectively run a very small venturi (by closing the throttle) should give you a method of reducing the available power to closer to what you need.
I don't have a lot of experience with RC throttle settings, but what little I have done suggests you need to adjust it very carefully over the full range of throttle positions, even if you only run it in a fixed throttle setting in flight. That means tweaking the air bleed for an idle that is more-or-less consistent with your full-throttle mixture. The other thing I (and many others found) is that it will just change power slightly up and down at what appears to be random, eitehr from the barrel shifting slightly, or varying air leaks, or something else. Usually, on 2-strokes, it's livable, and much more significant on 4-strokes.
Brett