Cobra if you like work.
http://www.outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=378

or A fierce arrow if you like a lot of work
see the 1st or 11th page of this thread for photos.
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=3690.0

Or a 1/2a Nobler

I have heard the name TERCEL before but I have never seen one.
We need pictures here.

Baby Barnstormer is about perfect!

I just noticed the ENVOY thread. It looks nice.

 the Tercel was designed by Keith Trostle  in the early 70's and published in MA sept 1976, it was one of the hot planes when they were flying 1/2 A stunt at the nats, i have the artical and plans,, vart clean looking

Hi Bill - You might want to pull the cylinder and check the bypasse(s).  A Medallion with a single bypass is a little low on torque.  With a dual bypass cylinder, it pulls very well.  Best, Tom

HI Tom, Don,

Thanks for the tip.  I will be pulling the cylinder to reset the rod.  I will check then.

Thanks!
Bill

I have been lucky in that I have never ruined an engine by resetting the ball joint. Like Jim, I have had  engines flog themselves to death, before I realised that the ball joint had to be reset when it developed play. Unless you are inherently on the clumsy side, it is not difficult to do. I have reset dozens of Cox engines without any drama and you soon get the knack.
Even with the ball joints being a touch loose, there is a noticeable drop in performance, so it is well worth learning how to do the job correctly. On most of the Cox engines I have had to deal with, I find that new pistons will develop ball joint slop quite quickly, after they have been "reset" once, they will last a very long time. After the second "reset" I have never had to reset them again. I suppose it must  be something to do with the unhardened ball joint cup becoming work hardened?

Regards,

Andrew.

There is no reason to ruin an engine when resetting the rod. It is very easy to do correctly. Be sure to use the base, put it on concrete or a HEAVY anvil, and keep the swaging tool vertical. Use moderate blows with a standard hammer, rotate the tool before each strike. Keep going just until there is NO slop, then add oil and work the rod around in the socket until it frees up. Clean it well, and you are ready to rip!

RESETTING IS MANDITORY! Resistance is futile.