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Building Tips and technical articles. => 1/2 A building. => Topic started by: Bill Little on March 22, 2013, 09:12:47 AM
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I have a used Medallion .049 that I have never run. It is in good shape, good compression, etc., so it should be fine.
What would you say is the best built up fuselage stunt model for this engine, other than the Pinto? All recommendations are appreciated!
Thanks!!
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
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Cobra if you like work.
http://www.outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=378 (http://www.outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=378)
or A fierce arrow if you like a lot of work
see the 1st or 11th page of this thread for photos.
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=3690.0 (http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=3690.0)
Or a 1/2a Nobler
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TERCEL
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I have heard the name TERCEL before but I have never seen one.
We need pictures here.
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Bill, the PERFECT job for that engine is CAREFULLY wrap it in some tissue paper, place in box and mail to me...
LOL LOL y1 y1
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Baby Barnstormer is about perfect!
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Larry , i just light up when i hear Barnstormer! I would love to get the plans for a baby. Bill , he may be on to something here!
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I just noticed the ENVOY thread. It looks nice.
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I believe Barry Baxter has the plans to the Baby Barnstormer in his collection.
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the Tercel was designed by Keith Trostle in the early 70's and published in MA sept 1976, it was one of the hot planes when they were flying 1/2 A stunt at the nats, i have the artical and plans,, vart clean looking
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You might want to check out the pee wee zilch, the plan is located here;
http://www.outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=264
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Hi Bill - You might want to pull the cylinder and check the bypasse(s). A Medallion with a single bypass is a little low on torque. With a dual bypass cylinder, it pulls very well. Best, Tom
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Hi Bill - You might want to pull the cylinder and check the bypasse(s). A Medallion with a single bypass is a little low on torque. With a dual bypass cylinder, it pulls very well. Best, Tom
Look in the exhaust ports, you should be able to see either one or two bypasses.
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HI Tom, Don,
Thanks for the tip. I will be pulling the cylinder to reset the rod. I will check then.
Thanks!
Bill
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I've ruined one, and had the rod come out the top of the piston on another from neglecting to do the reset, so I figure I am about even. ::)
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I have been lucky in that I have never ruined an engine by resetting the ball joint. Like Jim, I have had engines flog themselves to death, before I realised that the ball joint had to be reset when it developed play. Unless you are inherently on the clumsy side, it is not difficult to do. I have reset dozens of Cox engines without any drama and you soon get the knack.
Even with the ball joints being a touch loose, there is a noticeable drop in performance, so it is well worth learning how to do the job correctly. On most of the Cox engines I have had to deal with, I find that new pistons will develop ball joint slop quite quickly, after they have been "reset" once, they will last a very long time. After the second "reset" I have never had to reset them again. I suppose it must be something to do with the unhardened ball joint cup becoming work hardened?
Regards,
Andrew.
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I think the PDK ringmaster 150. Or the nobler sounds interesting. I'd like to see the tercel, though.
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There is no reason to ruin an engine when resetting the rod. It is very easy to do correctly. Be sure to use the base, put it on concrete or a HEAVY anvil, and keep the swaging tool vertical. Use moderate blows with a standard hammer, rotate the tool before each strike. Keep going just until there is NO slop, then add oil and work the rod around in the socket until it frees up. Clean it well, and you are ready to rip!
RESETTING IS MANDITORY! Resistance is futile. mw~