stunthanger.com
News:
CLICK HERE---->    <----CLICK HERE
 
 
*
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register. January 18, 2017, 03:15:09 AM


Login with username, password and session length



Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 10
 11 
 on: Yesterday at 09:05:50 PM 
Started by bill bischoff - Last post by Trostle

This is not a joy ride paid for by the AMA and the SIGs.  

Keith

And another thing.  The AMA does not recognize that the F2D Combat team should consist of the pilot and pitman as it does for the F2C Racing team.  The AMA pays for the pilot registration/housing/meals but not the pitman or any of the expenses the real combat team must take care of.

Again, making the US team in any event is not a paid vacation.

Keith

 12 
 on: Yesterday at 09:04:57 PM 
Started by dennis lipsett - Last post by dennis lipsett
Dang, I need another 5224, but not the square venturi

Dane,
I also have round ones.

Dennis

 13 
 on: Yesterday at 08:55:16 PM 
Started by wwwarbird - Last post by wwwarbird

 What $98.30 looks like...

 14 
 on: Yesterday at 08:52:58 PM 
Started by Russell Shaffer - Last post by Dane Martin
Funny, half the people thought you were talking about a drill bit, some others thought you were talking about a stunt plane with a muffler and then they started talking about the subject of another thread lol.

The KK check valve is very good but not fool proof as in it doesn't seal completely. Also you need to flush it out with solvent after every flying session. If oil dries in it game over, get a new one. KK also made a back plate for the Cox with a check valve in it. If you're using timed pressure it will make the needle valve more sensitive. You also need the KK 128 tpi NVA for pressure tanks.

.049's are easy to flood so, get it burning off a prime a few times to warm it and clear it out Before you fill the tank. Then pinch the pressure line, fill the tank and as it starts let the pressure line go. Also, it helps to close the needle valve down a good bit before you start it then open it up to the run setting once it's running. Especially helps on high rev .049's.

The other thing is if the engine starts to run then quits you need to break the pressure quickly or the pressure build up in the tank will flood your engine through either feed or pressure lines.

What engine are you using?

MM


Oh! Starting drill, as in starting procedure! Lol.
I agree here motorman. I like what you're saying here. I, so far,  have run a bladder on all my contest models. On the os engines we fly combat planes or just fast and fun, the pressure tank works great. Give it a "choke " flip, and see fuel in the venturi. Flip that clean 5 or 6 times with the pressure line pinched off.  Combat guys use modified clothes pin style clamps. Then hook up the battery. Fires up every time.

I don't like electric starters on bushing engines.

 15 
 on: Yesterday at 08:47:18 PM 
Started by Juan Valentin - Last post by Juan Valentin
Hello Larry
                     I do have a wing jig with aluminum rods of 1/4 and 5/16 inch. I haven`t made up my mind about how I`m going to fix the wing on the jig yet but the rod is one of the best.  Today I did some sanding on the ribs and cut the spars slot but need to finish with a 3/16 inch sanding form,I can`t cut them too well with my Dremel/Craftsman scroll saw. I cut two pieces of 1/4 by 3/16 x 36 for the wing spars and marked the position of the ribs to make the rib slots. I have seen somewhere the use of two pieces of hacksaw blades to make a tool to cut the slots and that`s what I did. I stuck them together with 1/32 great planes foam tape part number GPMQ4442. then I ground the sides of the blades flat. You need the teeth on the blades to face foward because you will be dragging the saw backwards to make the slots. I stuck the spar pieces together with scotch double sided tape in 3 places to keep them aligned while marking and cutting. I used it a piece of 3/16 aluminum to stop the saw at 1/16 inch depth an another to help me keep the saw square. Made the 17 slots no problem. I marked the spars to make sure I don`t swap ends.
                                                                                                                                                                             Juan

 16 
 on: Yesterday at 08:44:14 PM 
Started by cory colquhoun - Last post by Mark Scarborough
three feet added will add roughly 3 tenths to the lap time as a rule of thumb,,

use a tach every flight so you can consistantly get the same rpm and eliminate one variable,,

 17 
 on: Yesterday at 08:42:34 PM 
Started by Russell Shaffer - Last post by Paul Smith
All good ideas.

Here's another.

Fill the tank, but leave the pressure line disconnected.  Have the needle open only about a half-turn.  After barking a few primes, connect the pressure line and try to start.  If it starts up over-lean you can open the needle a little and save it.  This helps avoid flooding.

 18 
 on: Yesterday at 08:40:07 PM 
Started by DanielGelinas - Last post by TigreST
Dan,
It will take a long time if you use 400 to remove the finish.

Is the subject a built up structure with silkspan or some other covering or is the subject all sheet?

If you sand the finish off you will probably cut into or through the covering causing additional work.

A technique that I have used is to get a roll of paper towels, a can of acetone, rubber gloves and (outdoors) wet the towels with acetone and wipe the dope off, changing towels as needed.

Don't soak the structure with acetone (may weaken glue joints) but keep the towel wet enough that the dope is softened enough to allow wiping off.

Messy and takes a while but, if careful, the covering can be saved with out damage to the structure. If you want to remove the covering, apply enough acetone to the covered area to soften the dope and alloy the edge of the covering to be lifted.  I have removed wing covering one panel at a time using this method.

Hope this helps.

Ditto what Jim states, but I've used cheap lacquer thinners to effect the same result.  y1

 19 
 on: Yesterday at 08:36:27 PM 
Started by cory colquhoun - Last post by cory colquhoun
 cheers guys thanks for all the feedback, the plane is a re build from wrecked cougar stunt it now has profile fuse,  I can tell you it is straight but probably on the heavy side due to repairs,46in wspan,3and half oz fuel tank,.35 merco with muffler,10x6 prop,015 lines 60 foot,using a premixed fuel  10% nitro only one locally available,  weighs approx. 2lb,was a little tail heavy on first flight but seems to be trimmed better now, I know it has a lot to do with the pilot as my son has no problem with it , it just seems fast to me next time out I will time laps,might order some new lines and make them at 63ft,would this slow it much?

 20 
 on: Yesterday at 08:28:30 PM 
Started by Russell Shaffer - Last post by Norm Furutani
For a check valve, how about a Fourmost valve? I've been using one as a uniflow plug. Got this from Jed Kusik. I wish we had these back in the day. The free flights used to suck fuel through the pressure tap and cause over runs. We started using flood-offs for that reason.

Support one of your locals!
Fourmost check valve: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXG850&P=M

Norm

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 10

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines

Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS! Dilber MC Theme by HarzeM