Funny, half the people thought you were talking about a drill bit, some others thought you were talking about a stunt plane with a muffler and then they started talking about the subject of another thread lol.
The KK check valve is very good but not fool proof as in it doesn't seal completely. Also you need to flush it out with solvent after every flying session. If oil dries in it game over, get a new one. KK also made a back plate for the Cox with a check valve in it. If you're using timed pressure it will make the needle valve more sensitive. You also need the KK 128 tpi NVA for pressure tanks.
.049's are easy to flood so, get it burning off a prime a few times to warm it and clear it out Before you fill the tank. Then pinch the pressure line, fill the tank and as it starts let the pressure line go. Also, it helps to close the needle valve down a good bit before you start it then open it up to the run setting once it's running. Especially helps on high rev .049's.
The other thing is if the engine starts to run then quits you need to break the pressure quickly or the pressure build up in the tank will flood your engine through either feed or pressure lines.
What engine are you using?
Oh! Starting drill, as in starting procedure! Lol.
I agree here motorman. I like what you're saying here. I, so far, have run a bladder on all my contest models. On the os engines we fly combat planes or just fast and fun, the pressure tank works great. Give it a "choke " flip, and see fuel in the venturi. Flip that clean 5 or 6 times with the pressure line pinched off. Combat guys use modified clothes pin style clamps. Then hook up the battery. Fires up every time.
I don't like electric starters on bushing engines.