These color chips are advertised with the plastic modeling magazines, I have one set of their color chips (RAF) and they are good stuff

I have been collecting information on the BF-110 for awhile and trying to find a picture that matches a camo scheme is hard to find, I will look thru my files and see what I have

http://www.iliad-design.com/charts.html

Sometimes the paint line is a hard edge and other times it's a soft edge. I would not be surprised if the exact shapes on the photographs match the camo pattern drawings.

Klass Kote sells paint that is pre-mixed to match the military colors

http://www.klasskote.com/military_colors

Fred

found this on a google image search, typical grey bottom with the camo pattern on top. the dog on the nose is well documented

Fred

 
 LOT's of great ideas here...

 http://www.markstyling.com/

Another idea for the color scheme and camo pattern....the good plastic models often have really good information, and sometimes have color 3-views of the airplanes. since you are not entering scale competition you don't have to be as picky has CL scale pilots are and have some liberty on the paint scheme.

Fred

I really want to do a semi scale stunt version of this airfame, 

I like it ,,

I don't think I'd even call my plane "semi scale", so I can be "creative" with the paint scheme.  I want to get it as close as possible though.  Here is a photo of the plane on the paint stand (sans flaps, elevators and cowls).  The carbon veil has been applied and I am now filling the weave with dope and zinc stearate. 
Rick

 Wow, that's awesome, looks great! How about some specs? Power? Please keep the photos coming!

I think that is one of the few restored Bf-110's and the large spinners indicate it is one of the later versions, the G model I believe. The artist 3-view I posted a few days ago is the C, D or E model with the smaller spinners. There were not that many changes between the C and G model aircraft.

That camo pattern would be difficult to paint! and you are right without a top view picture you guessing on what the top of the wing really looks like

Fred

Fred,
Thanks for the 3-D views.  I like that pattern.  Do you have any idea why they used the yellow?  Seems a little counter to the camo theme. 
Rick

To identify the leaders, and different units.

 The Squadron/Signal publication "In Action" books are always great references as well. In them you will find many period photos, line drawings of practically every type, and various color profiles. This would be 13 bucks well spent...

  http://www.ebay.com/itm/SQUADRON-SIGNAL-MESSERSCHMITT-Bf110-ZERSTORER-IN-ACTION-ZG-NIGHTFIGHTER-NJG-/390900020396?hash=item5b0374f4ac:g:VrsAAOxyVLNSyhXb

"I did a camo paintscheme on a warbird and lost it in the trees "

Jeff,
 I lost one in the trees too.  It took a chainsaw to get it back! (hah hah hah!)

Rick

I received the paint chips and the Squadron/Signals book.  I'm now set in what I want to do, the only question I still have is about the paint itself.  The Klasskote website shows RLM paints that differ quite a bit in color from the chips I received from Iliad.  Has anyone used the Klasskote RLM colors? 
Also, can one make a lightweight finish with the Klasskote epoxy paint?  I typically use acrylic urethane auto paint for my planes and have no experience with Klasskote.  I have had no luck in cross referencing RLM paints to either Dupont or Martin Senour auto paint.  Has anyone had better luck?
Rick

The actual camo problem is very serious at The Brodak with all the trees in the background.  In both scale & stunt, camo and dark-colored planes are hard for the judges to see.  I guess if you fly badly this might help.  But if you are good it could limit your upside.

Charles,
Klass Kote is a 1:1 two-part epoxy. It has to react for about 45 minutes before spraying or brushing. I then add 1/2 part Klass Kote reducer (very expensive) and 1.5 parts lacquer thinner from Walmart. I have never developed a technique to eliminate tape edges. The cured paint can be sanded, but you'll need lots of elbow grease. There are two hardeners available, gloss and satin. Extra flattening agent can be purchased separately. Gloss and satin can be mixed in any ratio to get the desired amount of gloss. Two photos of my C/L Henschel 129.
Chuck

Rick, thanks for your kind comment. The colors are RLM 70, black green, RLM 71 dark green, and RLM 65 light blue. Or at least that is what they are supposed to be
Chuck

Klass Kote I believe is the same basic product,, more or less , than superpoxy,,
I imagine it to be very durable,, but for doing multiple colors like a soft edge camo scheme, I would have some concern about dry edge overspray afecting the semi gloss , though if doen right that coule actually be an enhancment to the scale effect since moste real camo schemes are not uniform gloss with respect to the color egdes,,
I did my bf 109 with base clear automotive system and mixed my own colors to match the color chips. I was pretty happy, I used a flattening agent in the clear to get the level of gloss/matte I needed

It's finally warming up enough to think about painting the Bf110 and I have a question about the "softness" of the paint edges.  Most of the camo planes I've seen in PA used an airbrush without any masking.  This leaves a very soft edge.  Is this too soft?  Photos of Luftwaffe planes seem to have a sharper edge, but not as sharp as a taped edge would yield. 
Any thoughts?
Rick

Rick,

I believe I mentioned the clay snake rolling thing. Or did I not? That's a great way to get a soft edge. Plastic guys do this all the time.

I know you don't have a double action airbrush, so the clay thing could be a consideration.

I believe I also mentioned sanding the edge with 1000 or 600. This could give you what you are looking for also. Just go easy and take your time.

Charles

Charles,
What is the clay snake rolling thing?
Rick

Rick,

You get some soft clay and roll it into a long snake. 3/8" in diaimeter. Take the thing and place it onto the camo line drawn on your wing. Mask it off, the side you don't want paint on.

Then remove paper, mask and the clay snake. You'll have your soft line actly where you want it.

The clay is soft, you can make "S" or whatever.

Google plastic models airbrush tricks. It might be there?

Charles

Thanks, Charles

Rick

Will there be photos?

Charles

Two photos of my C/L Henschel 129.
Chuck

 WOW, that thing is AWESOME Chuck! 

Hi Rick,
The German schemes were evolutionary in nature. The splinter schemes were fairly tight, unmasked spray jobs early on. As the war went on field paint jobs could be very neat or very loose and soft.
I could see a day fighter mid-war Me-110 being very neat and tight. That could be done with an airbrush on a big stunt model pretty easily. From a standing posture at 5 feet it would look masked, up close it would look pleasingly soft. I have pencilled in the pattern and done the edges of the dark color after painting the lighter color first, painting the edge first to your desire by experimenting with your airbrush pattern on paper, and then filling the color in between your edge lines.
I read a little on the German fighters with the knowledge of the British airplanes being painted with a large rubber mat as a template resulting in very sharp edges. The German fighters weren't painted this way.
In a field scheme, much like Ty was intimating in his posts, I suppose a brush job neatly done could produce a very sharp edge but would be very specific in nature and to a particular airplane.

I always loved the 110, the one with the yellow trim and the big wasps on the nose were always my favorites. Any of these schemes would go well soft or hard on a Stunt model. I look forward to your model being finished and seeing pictures!
Chris...

F|WIW here is the link to my 109 stunter in splinter camo scheme free handed as I spoke about.
take a look,,
http://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/bf-109-semi-scale-now-electric-(-and-painted)/

another thread on it you may find interesting, ,note details about exhaust stacks ( I am kinda proud of that idea)
http://stunthanger.com/smf/open-forum/bf-109-in-prime/

 not sure its of any value but there ya go
Heck I will throw a couple picgtures here for inspiration frustration??

Chris, Mark, Charles,
Thanks for all the helpful advice.  I will practice with my airbrush today and hope to paint this weekend (temps are supposed to be in the mid 50's).  Mark, why did you paint the white first?  I was planning on doing the crosses after the camo, though I guess the white will have a harder time covering the camo than it would over the primer. 
Rick

Chris, Mark, Charles,
Thanks for all the helpful advice.  I will practice with my airbrush today and hope to paint this weekend (temps are supposed to be in the mid 50's).  Mark, why did you paint the white first?  I was planning on doing the crosses after the camo, though I guess the white will have a harder time covering the camo than it would over the primer. 
Rick

It was how I brainstormed the sequence,, The masks for the insignia ( crosses and fuse markings) were cut but not weeded,, applied over the white base, then everything else was painted.. I then pulled the section of the insignia mask off that I wanted black, masked the ends of the openings between the eventual black area, and the camo area, sprayed the black, pulled the mask from the white portion of the insignia,, and poof, done,,

covering the camo with white is HEAVY,  leaves a big hump/edge and jus tmakes life more difficult in general. I thought my solution was pretty elegant in the long run,, ( I spend more time planning the paint phase than I do painting, in fact many of my paint schemes are driven more by how to sequence than by ultimately what I would like to do)

also, as is mentioned by Fred, paint is translucent to some extent, some colors worse than others, but definetly, the color of the substrate will impact the finished color.
In fact now days in the automotive world of collision repair, you have tintable sealers and a formula to create the proper shade of grey to apply prior to applying the color in order to get the color to match...