There , the hard brass tube , washer each side , thru the horn , isnt yet filed back to working length . One you can see is longer . Like that with wire through to align , or cut AFTER fitting to the horn .
Here , the hardware store brass ( chinese ) washers , sometimes theres smaller lighter thinner ones , rather than the 3 x ? ( or so ) bolt diameter . i.e. 1/8 in. hole 3/8 in O.D. . Theyre say 2 x hole size O.D.
if you want to save by the gramme . BUT adequate solder fillets are are a necessity .

The Brass Bushes are best left say 1/4 in. long .

The Pushrod Wire end , left long ( a few inches ) despite best laid plans , usually gets a final teak , so the bush rotates free on the pushrod end & in the horn . fitted . or just about .

For weight , the wire pushrod ends ussually only a few inches long . Lapping the carbon pushrod say 1 1/2 inch   . Hole or slot if Zer Zero is got after all else is secured .
Use a bike spoke end to pull thread binding up & push down / around .  Try looping on the rod , fitting wire , sliding the bundle aft & taughtening off , but usually thats a tangle .

The holes in the horn there are often ' tap fit ' , deburr & maybe chamfer a wire end , push firmly , or tap thru  . Firm sliding Fit . Sometimes the ' keeper wire ' has a FLAT .
So the holes overlap . Pilot drill . Drill half thru from both sides , then finish drill . . Tricky but o.k. if you get it right , say - 1/32 on the centers .

Its essential you pre solder - TIN  - all the wire bits where they join , beforehand . After sanding wire bare first ! and dressing most off the solder OFF so it'll go together .
But Then , when you heat it , the 60 / 40 Bar Solder flows nicely . Saves three applications of acid and head ' to take ' and less liable to capture acid residue .

After thorougly cleaning the assembly , best to hit it with a spray can of engine enamel or something . Etch Primer . as inevitably if you oppen up a old ship , the surface rusts
on it , HOW I couldnt tell you . So they get the horn arm hit with dope or whatevers handy . That'd b e why good comercial ones are plated  .

If its NARROW aft , the tubes filled flush with the washers . When the pushrod wire arm ends filed back , youve got to pre measure to see you dont remove the ( then ) lip to the retaining copper wire groove .
So , it'll be say 1/16 th or 1/32 left . sometimes THEN soldered , hopefully you get a dome , and file flat to wire end .

Mutter Fume ! .

NARROW , Chisels ! 60 Wt. sandpaper strip - shiift to full up after putting paper vertical & saw away ! up'n'down ' , To get sandpaper widths clearance thru travel .
But theres a easier way . Make it WIDER . ( Ive a few where the inner groove to clear the rod ends flush / open . Domed Solder on washer protrudesfor a way , near full travel . very artistic !     

Look at the wing T E to Stab L E as a Tourque Tube , neccesary to stop twist , working hard in a blow . If its anchored well there .
Cut cardboard slabs inner to match the wing T E , horn arm bush . then get srtistic . Say  1/2 in deep ' V ' Arms  .  2 1/4 long or so .

Rear the bulkhead as a L E saddle , with maybe a strip of 1 / 32 ply as per above thru under the stab and aft  away past the horn .

If thats say 3/4 deep - and a clean close joint affixed both surfaces ( Pre Glue BOTH so ne DRY SPOTS . it should stay on .

A bulkhead AT the Stab T E / Hinge Line normally whittled out to clear control movement .

My Horn , if good wire - Brass tube & washer Ea side , paper under & vasaline . 80 watt , stick solder ( plumbers bar  60 40 is hard , 50 50 is soft ) and ACID . phosphoric . Then boiled in BAKING SODA .
That Neutralisation , flushing with acetone etc . Chainsaw Bar Oil or m'Cylce chain lube .

The PUSHROD . 3/32 min . usually 1/8th wire now . But 3 mm is lighter ! good wire . Hammer Over square in VICE . wriggle to check it didnt crack ! ! ! . Some Does . or aneal bend reaneal !
A Washer . Or if not - for narrowness - file round diameter into curve inner face to wire shaft flank . for maximumum narrowness off FIT . fit , put on a thin washer , use a shaft hacksaw narrow blade
to get a cut on opposite flanks of arm - or cut circumferance 1/2 m.m. groove . So 1 m.m. pre tinned ! copper wire Half Engages pushrod wire arm & retains washer ! . Paper under washer 9 for a few thou. end float
AND NON STICK .
Solder bloddy well whilst NOT heating Bush ! 
a squirt or two of coolant if you dont catch ' the melt ' instant like .

THEN file , or Cut & File down narrow . As youd left the Arm Long to ensure it was square / parrallel - to Hinge Line . By now its midnight & your dinners cold . So starty early . Its NOT a five minute job .

Timber ( BASS ) Pushrods get equal barometric expansion to timber fuse & negate necessity for length adjustment . So They say !  But Adj at flap horn or telescopic joint maybe .
But Two wire pushrods into brass tube joiner ! / youd never know if the inner tube was fully tinned or would part . Plus its a failure point if you kinked the tube wall , maybe .

SO 1 in or 1 1/4 in at the stab L E is about it for a 46/60 flat side ship . taper in a bit to hinge , then taper away more to rudder post or aft edge . Perhaps .   

a liight ply circumferance to any hatches & Super glue ' hardening ' of  balsa & ply ' edges ' . PLUS dope thrown inside so as LUBE dont soak into structure . As In Dope Inside ! too . MATE .

" As best I can measure, everything is 0-0-0. "



Its not unusuall to run Plus. Stab. incidence .
Jose talks of 3/16 Down Elevator needed on all Pattern Master .60's . Reading this , cunning , or is that forethought , has us trying + inc. I think it was 3/ 32 across the whole kaboodle .
As In , Elevator carefully aligned with stab. The center of the L . E. is 3 / 32 above the T. E. center .My dunger flys good , equal each way .But you wanna be 6 ft. 20 stone , and fit ,
to wrestle with a pattern Master .60 .

Fred Flinstone alignment .

Masking Tape say 3/16 Sq. ( with inner edge chamferd to 20 or 30 degrees )  or double sided tape . or cheap superglue ( thatll flick off clean ) balsa to the upper & lowwer L.E. at the front .
Holding a thing vertical with them butted even against it ensures exactness . side to side. Parrallel to L E . A inch or two long . If the Stabs FLAT your in way easier .

Its the long trick . a Metre or more and increments are easier discerned  . ( A steel straight edge 3 ft. across the prop driver - and a large square - if thrust lines the issue , a little downthusts usually o.k. . NOT up .)

THAT should get the L E as deep as the center . ( the objective )  SO A STICK Over & Below - run parrallel . Same Gap all along . 1/2 Sq building supplies straight stuff . or inch by quater . or balsa sheet .

IF they tilt down Fwd. your doomed . Neg. Incidance . If theyre up say a quater , round the wing , it'd be fine . Drawing a degree angle 7 measuring at distance explains that .

BUT INITIALLY , try a Big Jim ( amopugst others ) and dial in say 3/16 down elevator at neutral flap ( you can wind some out later ) and see iif it evens the feel and suchlike .

Pye Korry ; ( indegenous for ' by golly ' ) .

For the record .https://f2dservice.nethouse.ru/products/category/3033575

seems to have a good reputation .
Drive washer collet 68
30 $




http://discovery-aeromodels.com/en/carbon-spinner-for-aeromodel.html




looks like the SPINNER from Yatsenko has the prop drive / split collet integral . The little one is more curvey . However , if the bearing I.D. , shaft is 7 m.m. ,
any Super Tigre one would do , at a pinch .  So a measuring stick might be a good start .

 If I ever saw an ideal application for using a 3D printer this would be it.