Dennis, thanks for the Rust-O-leum tip! Even so, it may be good to scuff and top with a specifically fuel-proof clear.
Pinecone - You recall something I don't. There may have been some comment in the roll-up instructions with the clear $Kote... I have painted SIG and, when it still worked, AeroGloss color over Clear MonoKote. DIDN'T scuff the surface, but gave it a wet wipe of straight Acetone, dried by soft paper towel and NOT TOUCHED with the skin until the dope dried.
Over well prepped wood, this was a VERY light, attractive finish method, but did not add strength the way doped fabric of any kind does. Wood remained soft, and finger dings or other hangar rash were very evident.
...Fairly well "plasticized" or retarded the dope to control shrinkage... Eventually (15-20 years) flakes off like peeling sunburn... Impossible to mask for decorations - it strips off real well.
Only remaining concern for Rust-O-Leum is that it seems to be an enamel. Diesel fuel, main power ingredient: kerosene, tends to act like "mineral spirits" (turpentine?) on enamels. Well cured, a week or more, may get past this, whatever the composition of Rust-O-Leum. A long cure like that also has to help avoid compatibility problems...