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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Douglas Ames on December 30, 2009, 08:52:16 AM
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Anything I need to know besides scuffing the Monocote? Should I use an adhesion promoter or primer?
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All I ever did was scuff with a Scotchbrite and clean with alcohol, it's always stuck very well. Never painted large areas, just names, numbers and an overlap at the fuselage wing joint.
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Have you tried this with Dupli-Color? I was asking someone about this just the other day. Thanks ???
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I had covered a model with clear Monokote and decided it needed some color. Painted the whole model with Rustolium and it is still on after 5 years.
Dennis
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Thanx! Good to know info.
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I don't know about the current version, but in the past, the Clear Monokote was designed for painting. It had a different surface to allow paint to stick.
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Have you tried this with Dupli-Color? I was asking someone about this just the other day. Thanks ???
yep - duplicolour sticks too - just scuff the monocote and clean with alcohol -and you are good to go - I have done it a bunch of times
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Thanks for the information Wynn, I appreciate it. H^^
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I don't know about the current version, but in the past, the Clear Monokote was designed for painting. It had a different surface to allow paint to stick.
Actually thats a misnomer. It isn't prepped at all. Clear basically has no color applied with the adhesive. As you know if you delaminate it the color comes up with the adhesive. With all Monokote it is best to Scotchbrite it before painting.
Dennius
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Actually, I clearly remember that the clear was marketed for painting. I used it on a profile A-7. It painted fine without any prep.
And it wasn't as shiny as the color Monokotes were.
Now this was a LONG time ago. :)
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Dennis, thanks for the Rust-O-leum tip! Even so, it may be good to scuff and top with a specifically fuel-proof clear.
Pinecone - You recall something I don't. There may have been some comment in the roll-up instructions with the clear $Kote... I have painted SIG and, when it still worked, AeroGloss color over Clear MonoKote. DIDN'T scuff the surface, but gave it a wet wipe of straight Acetone, dried by soft paper towel and NOT TOUCHED with the skin until the dope dried.
Over well prepped wood, this was a VERY light, attractive finish method, but did not add strength the way doped fabric of any kind does. Wood remained soft, and finger dings or other hangar rash were very evident.
...Fairly well "plasticized" or retarded the dope to control shrinkage... Eventually (15-20 years) flakes off like peeling sunburn... Impossible to mask for decorations - it strips off real well.
Only remaining concern for Rust-O-Leum is that it seems to be an enamel. Diesel fuel, main power ingredient: kerosene, tends to act like "mineral spirits" (turpentine?) on enamels. Well cured, a week or more, may get past this, whatever the composition of Rust-O-Leum. A long cure like that also has to help avoid compatibility problems...
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Hi Lou, I'm glad you mentioned diesel fuel. How do you like to finish a diesel powered profile sport model please? Thanks, Mike H^^
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Hi Lou, I'm glad you mentioned diesel fuel. How do you like to finish a diesel powered profile sport model please? Thanks, Mike H^^
Mike,
Diesel fuel is pretty gentle, any standard finish will generally work, but here's a plus, nitrate is uneffected by it, so a nitrate finish can be applied beginning to end.