NO!

Apple's irritating word replacement suggester. REPAINTING.

What would be the best way to remove the Rustoleum entirely?   This stuff might not be Rustoleum.  I used to have some black baron epoxy paint.  It might be that.  Any way to tell?

You can also coat the entire area with Duplicolor Primer/Filler (automptive lacquer) over the Rustoleum THEN you can use dope..

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

Not sure about that one.  Back when I was trying this stuff I made some alligator skin with that primer.  I don't know what happened and didn't try it again.  Polycrilic is water base and pretty inert as far as I can tell.  Auto Air Colors has a product that would also work.  Just not a good idea to mix products unless you know exactly what the results will be.  For me, there is now Rustoleum in my future.

I should have added that it will affect the paint if it is put on too heavy to start with.  Otherwise I have used it over Testors small bottle plastic model paints which are a soft enamel.  It is basically the only primer I use on ALL my hobby projects sine getting lazy and not wanting to mix some Variprime, etc..

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

Update: I sanded it till the paint was dull, then did some experimenting. Took a half inch brush and brushed some acetone on a small spot.  Checked results and did some more. In places where fuel had been, the acetone wrinkled the paint and made it peel up.  Where there had been no fuel, like the top of the tail and vertical fin, and a few other places, no effect.  Must be the BB "epoxy" paint.   I removed all the bad paint and sanded the rest smooth.  It looks like a good coat of clear dope  is underneath.   After stripping, I put on a coat of Sig lite coat clear. Color dope should go on just fine after a little light sanding.  Whatever the paint was, it was not fuel proof over the long term.  Maybe I need to clean better after flying.

3/2: Color is on and no peeling has occurred.

Brother John, it looks great from here!  Plenty more years left in that airframe.

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM