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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: John Fitzgerald on February 27, 2012, 09:31:00 PM
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I want to repaint the fuselage and tail of a profile I built about 12 years ago. The wings are cote and now in good shape. I think I painted originally with Rustoleum. It was a little gummy in places. I stripped off all the hardware and cleaned the plane up with alcohol, then used some acetone on the really bad spots. I have sanded it down smooth, but it would be a lot of work to sand to bare wood. Can I dope over old Rustoleum after sanding it? Suggestions? I really would like to do a dope finish.
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NO!
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Reprinting?
Your best option in this case is to sand it nice and smooth and just shoot it again with Rustoleum. Whatever you do DO NOT try putting dope over any Rustoleum, you will end up with a major mess on your hands.
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Apple's irritating word replacement suggester. REPAINTING.
What would be the best way to remove the Rustoleum entirely? This stuff might not be Rustoleum. I used to have some black baron epoxy paint. It might be that. Any way to tell?
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If it is sanded smooth, you can put a coat of Minwax Polycrilic over the entire area. Dope will go over that but you have to be careful not to sand through before putting on the dope. You can mix zinc stearate or talcum with the polycrilic to make a nice sanding base. Again, don't sand through, enamel and dope don't mix.
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You can also coat the entire area with Duplicolor Primer/Filler (automptive lacquer) over the Rustoleum THEN you can use dope..
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
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You can also coat the entire area with Duplicolor Primer/Filler (automptive lacquer)
Not sure about that one. Back when I was trying this stuff I made some alligator skin with that primer. I don't know what happened and didn't try it again. Polycrilic is water base and pretty inert as far as I can tell. Auto Air Colors has a product that would also work. Just not a good idea to mix products unless you know exactly what the results will be. For me, there is now Rustoleum in my future.
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Not sure about that one. Back when I was trying this stuff I made some alligator skin with that primer. I don't know what happened and didn't try it again. Polycrilic is water base and pretty inert as far as I can tell. Auto Air Colors has a product that would also work. Just not a good idea to mix products unless you know exactly what the results will be. For me, there is now Rustoleum in my future.
I should have added that it will affect the paint if it is put on too heavy to start with. Otherwise I have used it over Testors small bottle plastic model paints which are a soft enamel. It is basically the only primer I use on ALL my hobby projects sine getting lazy and not wanting to mix some Variprime, etc..
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
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What would be the best way to remove the Rustoleum entirely? This stuff might not be Rustoleum. I used to have some black baron epoxy paint. It might be that. Any way to tell?
In that case I think you'd still be ok. Just sand'er smooth, shoot it, and go flying. ;D
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Update: I sanded it till the paint was dull, then did some experimenting. Took a half inch brush and brushed some acetone on a small spot. Checked results and did some more. In places where fuel had been, the acetone wrinkled the paint and made it peel up. Where there had been no fuel, like the top of the tail and vertical fin, and a few other places, no effect. Must be the BB "epoxy" paint. I removed all the bad paint and sanded the rest smooth. It looks like a good coat of clear dope is underneath. After stripping, I put on a coat of Sig lite coat clear. Color dope should go on just fine after a little light sanding. Whatever the paint was, it was not fuel proof over the long term. Maybe I need to clean better after flying.
3/2: Color is on and no peeling has occurred.
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Here's the re-finished model. It's a brush dope finish...I don't have any way to spray it, and the fumes seem less hazardous when brushed.
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Brother John, it looks great from here! Plenty more years left in that airframe. ;D
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM