Polyspan by any other name.........

[Target]

Thanks Dennis for the confirmation.
Plane looks great.

R,
Chris

[Motorman]

Silk span,  Poly-span and this new P45 will tear easily with the grain but not across it.  I've already tried it.

I just bought some P45, do you think it tears a little too easy in both directions?

MM 

[Mark Knoepfle]

Doc - thank you for trying this out! How many coats to fill the span? How much heat gun did you need to bring the span up to tight? And after a couple of questions with a couple other guys how did the tips come out? Did you have to heat and stretch to pull it around or did it lay out nice?

Mark

[Terry Caron]

Doc, since weight was one of the negatives attributed to poly/P45, did you by chance weigh anything for before/after cover and finish weights?

Terry

[john e. holliday]

Well I now have several coats of dope on the material.  All I can say now is it would work in a pinch if Poly-Span was not available.   Has a very rough texture to it and the dope is not filling it like I think it should.  Oh I will finish the plane, but I think true Poly-Span is the only way to go for your plane you want to look nice with out all the work.  More later as I keep working on it.   Trying to do a sanding job on it now.

[Terry Caron]

Someone noted a lack of the sizing that true polyspan has and others have commented on the fuzziness after doping - I wonder if a coat of thinned white glue after covering and stretching (possibly needing a bit of sanding) but before doping would seal it, making the finish easier?

Terry

[Lauri Malila]

I think it's more about technique when you want to avoid fuzziness. Wet brush coats without rubbing, sharp sandpaper when sanding.
But still if only doped, some areas will become fuzzy in use; leading edge and dihedral joints in FF for example. For that reason I cover (carbon) D-box with paper instead of Saltzer. L