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Author Topic: Brodak .40  (Read 1848 times)

Offline Jerry Leuty

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Brodak .40
« on: September 22, 2011, 04:26:54 PM »
  OK all you, or at least one of you, engine gurus out there; how do you get the back plate off the crankshaft? I see what looks like a 'o' type ring lock wire on the shaft. I am putting a new block on my Brodak .40 and I have it all apart except for the crankshaft. But the prop back plate will not come off. I am thinking that I will have to get something to dig that little snap ring out of there. Any help is appreciated.

Jerry
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Offline Bob Reeves

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Re: Brodak .40
« Reply #1 on: September 22, 2011, 05:39:40 PM »
No snap ring, just should come right off. Try heating it up a little and use a puller.
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Offline peabody

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Re: Brodak .40
« Reply #2 on: September 22, 2011, 05:55:10 PM »
I use pliers....that's why Hampshire grabs 'em from me if I even hint that I am going to look inside an engine...

Eandy says it's okay if I change glow plugs, but that's it.
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Offline Jerry Leuty

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Re: Brodak .40
« Reply #3 on: September 22, 2011, 06:08:52 PM »
   Ok, now to answer my own question and for other's information. These engines are made in Russia of all places. It seems they use very close tolerances.The prop back plate has a bevel cut into it. There is a corresponding beveled shim that tightens down on the crank shaft when the prop is installed the first time. I put a block of wood under the plate and used a dowel rod cut to about an inch long and taped it to the threaded part of the shaft. While holding the whole thing with one hand I used a small hammer to tap the end of the dowel rod with. It all popped loose after that. Next came reassembly of the new block. The NVA was a tight fit, the piston and liner was a tight fit and the  crank case back plate was a real tight fit. But it is all togther now and is turning feely. Now to go mount it on the test stand and give it a short fun. This engine assembly is going in a scratch built Road Runner. I have taken many engines apart in my life but this engine was by far the tightest fitting engine ever.
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Offline Jerry Leuty

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Re: Brodak .40
« Reply #4 on: September 22, 2011, 06:58:43 PM »
 Got a good bench run out of it. Very happy with this virtually new engine. I originally had this engine mounted on a Doodle Bug profile that the controls gave loose on. My weak build on this particular wing. I have a sure fire way of mounting the bell crank now that the stud bolt holding the B-crank is the weakest part now. Anyway when the plane went in from about 10 ft. high the muffler broke off the block leaving one of the mounting holes for the muffler sheared off. This engine had not had any run time on it since. I got encouraged and ordered a block from Brodak. They did not have one in stock but someone else had ordered the internal parts for a .40 so they sent me the block. Now I am happy.
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Offline Steve Helmick

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Re: Brodak .40
« Reply #5 on: September 22, 2011, 07:18:58 PM »
I finally figured out that you couldn't get the "prop driver" off the "crankshaft" thingy. I don't have any B.40's, but I would expect they'd use a split collet like the Super Tigres. Not that tough to remove, just a sharp whack with a block of wood or plastic hammer. 

The "big" Brodak engines are made in Moldova, not Russia, by the same shop that builds Double Stars (which I call "2Stars", for what I think are obvious reasons). Not sure about the 1/2a's family trees...  H^^ Steve
« Last Edit: September 22, 2011, 08:07:00 PM by Steve Helmick »
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Offline Garf

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Re: Brodak .40
« Reply #6 on: September 22, 2011, 08:22:58 PM »
Quote from: Steve Helmick on September 22, 2011, 07:18:58 PM
Not sure about the 1/2a's family trees...  H^^ Steve
CS=China
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Offline Steve Helmick

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Re: Brodak .40
« Reply #7 on: September 22, 2011, 08:42:46 PM »
Phil...You saying that Brodak 1/2a's are made by CS? Are AP's made by the same factory? I know what CS means, and where it's made.  LL~ Steve
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"The United States has become a place where professional athletes and entertainers are mistaken for people of importance." - Robert Heinlein

In 1944 18-20 year old's stormed beaches, and parachuted behind enemy lines to almost certain death.  In 2015 18-20 year old's need safe zones so people don't hurt their feelings.

Offline Garf

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Re: Brodak .40
« Reply #8 on: September 23, 2011, 08:51:00 AM »
I'm not positive, but I think they are made in Russia.
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Offline Lyle Spiegel

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Re: Brodak .40
« Reply #9 on: September 23, 2011, 02:30:29 PM »
Several years ago I also had an "incident" with my B40 and broke out the muffler mounting hole- tried to order a new crankcase and found out it wasn't available- sounds like situation hasn't changed- no parts available. I sent the engine to Scott Dinger and he made a great weld repair w/o disassembly of the engine- he drilled and retapped a new hole and have had no issues since- its my best running B40. Cost was same as if I had to buy a new case. Not sure if Scott still doing these repairs- hope I don't need another.
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Offline Douglas Ames

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Re: Brodak .40
« Reply #10 on: September 23, 2011, 03:32:00 PM »
Quote from: peabody on September 22, 2011, 05:55:10 PM
I use pliers....that's why Hampshire grabs 'em from me if I even hint that I am going to look inside an engine...

Eandy says it's okay if I change glow plugs, but that's it.


Oh, so your the guy...I've seen my share of engines with plier marks on the drive washer.
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Offline Garf

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Re: Brodak .40
« Reply #11 on: September 23, 2011, 06:47:54 PM »
My Brodak 40 has been welded twice by Scott. It didn't survive the second time.
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Offline john e. holliday

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Re: Brodak .40
« Reply #12 on: September 24, 2011, 07:28:09 AM »
On my Brodak .40 after the one ear was broke off, I just J-B Welded the tongue muffler on permenantly.
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John E. "DOC" Holliday
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