Never brake an engine in in the air.

CB

  " 2.  Few people run engines with 2-4-2 breaks any more.  The break is hard to get right, and takes a lot of fussing.  Most people run in a solid, rich 2, or a deep four-stroke that might "beep" into a 2-stroke at the tops of maneuvers, or might not. "


Well...maybe... sometimes  ..   er   Every engine/plane I have runs in a  4 cycle, either  4-2-4   or  mostly all 4 cycle,  Most  Every one I couch runs in a 4/2  cycle, MOST  every  ic setup that you will see at the  Nats  is running a  4-2-4  cycle, or a  mostly 4 stroke


Randy

Matt
I am in line for the next gen SV-11 and wanted a low cost turn key engine

Looked at Stalker and eventually let Randy Smith talk me into one of his B&B Magnum 52s  ( half the price of the Stalker I was considering)

he said

I have a lot of Mag 52 and 53s  out there, they run very well as I send them with high compression, use 5% fuel to start, and if your popping glow plugs add a head shim to reduce compression, many are running  these with  18%  synthetic fuel  with either 2 ounces of castor  or an ounce of Aero 1  fuel supplement.  They do not like  heavy oil or heavy castor  fuels, the do great on a  13 x 4.5 or 12.5 x 4.5  prop 2 blades,  3 blade 12 x 4,5  and produce  excellent power, much more than say and old  ST 60 or a new ST 51

He also sold me 13 x 4 and 13 x 5 Pro Zinger props recommending to break in with the 13x4

Patiently awaiting the ARF SV 11 but could not resist bench running the XLS Mag .52....
Mine has the stock muffler....depending on balance, may ask Randy for an alternative muffler (that he has)

Matt...I dunno about Canada shipping but as much as you fuss about with engines...

I might humbly suggest a investment in E-bay Torco Meth and Nitro, and various supplies of Castor/Benol/Techniplate,UCON LB 625, AERO 1 additive---- and start properly blending fuels to what many on SH suggest work well

That and some experimentation is necessary for your typical flying area

Example... I got a good Fox 35 most every body said low N and High oil

started with 5%N and 29% castor
tried some Sig 15%N at 25%C started noticeably easier

Blended up some 10% with 24% 50/50 for another engine and decided to try it in the Fox 35.... SWEET! Starts and restarts easy...and runs a lot cleaner

I do not contest or travel to fly...all local...this ONE blend works just right for me at my field no matter a 65 degree or 93 degree flight

Example... I got a good Fox 35 most every body said low N and High oil

started with 5%N and 29% castor

   As usual "most everybody" was wrong. Going to even 10% has a marked improvement in the starting and a large increase in the power with nearly no ill effects..

 

tried some Sig 15%N at 25%C started noticeably easier

     OK, but watch out for crankshaft failure. 15% is where it seem to go over the edge - 25% and you are definitely living on borrowed time.

Blended up some 10% with 24% 50/50 for another engine and decided to try it in the Fox 35.... SWEET! Starts and restarts easy...and runs a lot cleaner

   That will usually run OK with a well-broken-in engine but is on the edge for long-term wear. If you aren't planning on 1000 flights, then, probably OK.

    My default fuel for Fox 35s (which may make a re-appearance in the not-too-distant future after a 40-year vacation) is 15% nitro, 29% straight castor.

   Again, as in the other threads - what most people "know" about stunt engines, their modification/adjustment, and fuel, is wrong, particularly the guys who consider themselves experts. I am no expert and in fact, I think I now know just enough about stunt engines, after ~50 years of trying to make them work,  to be aware of that fact.

    Brett

Ten or 15 years ago, Magnum instructions said (paraphrasing) to break-in the engine with fuel containing "at least 20% castor oil". These days, they say to break-in the engine with fuel containing "at least 20% oil".

This suggests to me that they had to change the instructions because too many people could not obtain fuel that met the older instructions. That is not amazing, but it is amazing that people actually read the instructions! How disgraceful is that!? Steve 

As I learn from Brett, Randy, Marvin Denny, Henry Nelson,  and several others; There are many ways to do things

BUT also there needs to be a appreciation for the different uses of the equipment--- and then try to take all the superb advice, and adapt to YOUR equipment, use, habits, and consider the various conditions...like venue/location and resources, or in some cases the availability of products, or costs yadda yadda

You also must be cogent of the changes, over time, to some sage advice that may NOT be good advice today

Example would be the constant recommendation to add a little (2 to 3 drops/spritzes per gallon) of ArmorAll to solve a foaming fuel issue... I can state categorically that in 2017, if you head out to Auto Zone, and buy a container of that crap you will be disappointed, not get any good anti foam result, and may foul expensive plugs----I do not know when the formula changed, but it did....and most guys with this recommendation have a 4 oz container from 1985 that will last them for three more decades

Back on subject...  sort of... My take away, from a lot of posts, is that each engine series/type/construction is happy with a fairly wide variety of N and oil combinations

Since I deliberately moved on to mostly Bret's/ Dirty Dan's mantra of BBTU...a grand euphemism for "buy it fly it as designed"  This method is on many of my models from RSTs, ARF birds, and a few kits....and right now have a fleet of birds and engine combos that all behave without any fuss at the field

The one bird with the Fox .35 is a purely nostalgia Ringmaster--- no burp plug---and flown only twice a year so I think I may just to sort of take the advice--- I will blend the next quart with a tad more total oil and a bit of Aero 1

While I tend to think, not overly critical with Matt's experience with the Evo 60..... there is plenty of current info about bird size/weight proper prop, proper fuel, and proper muffler without any extremes are needed --- info enough to play airplane without too much frustration

I can appreciate where there are some older engines...like the Fox 35....where max size in a minimal case ....that demand a lot of OIL, not so much for lube, but to help shed heat

I guess bottom line is... we are exceeding fortunate to have this forum and folks who have a LOT of "been there done that experience"

At 62 and deteriorating rapidly I have a finite range of playing model airplane... 100% of my flying is locally just for giggles

These guys have helped immensely with lowering my frustration level, no need to learn the hard way, and maximize my flight line experience...and for that I am ever indebted to this resource

Randy it is hot enough here to consider it a new building/ assembly season... the RS B&B Magnum .52 is good to go...send me a very good ARF SV 11 soon please

I know, I know, you are busy at the Nats making your well deserved fortune!!!     grin

Matt...ever so sorry to bloviate in your good thread...

I do NOT have a Evo 60 but do have 2 of the Evo 36s...each one set up per hints from this site...and I expect each to out live me, easily

Prop/ fuel recommendations, and the expert advice from Lee's machine and his products worked for me

Bloviating Fred... who, to date has not yet experienced a "run away" engine since 2012.... Of course back in 1972 I had an Enya .35 5224 on Missile Mist, Rev Up 8x8, 34 oz Mongoose, missed the needle, unloaded and went to high scream...ran out with what should have been a cooked engine....still have it....Still runs on a Mongoose .....My dad's McCoy .35 that did the same on a Ringmaster (( I still have the engine)) free wheels with zero compression