Author Topic: Vertigo II Build (Read 170953 times)

Don Jenkins · « **on:** March 19, 2024, 08:14:54 AM »

I built a plane back in 2017 that flew quite well with a Stalker .61 that I named Vertigo. Unfortunately I only got 65 flights on it and only flew it in one contest before I put it straight in on asphalt. Anyway, I decided to build another Vertigo, this time E-powered and I'm using a foam wing that I've had for about 7 years. I am somewhat reluctant to start a build thread since I sometimes get distracted from the builds for long periods of time, but I'll give it a try. The pics are of the first Vertigo before its first flight and after its last! I did collect and assemble all of the pieces so it would resemble a plane for the final pic.

Don

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #1 on:** March 19, 2024, 08:22:04 AM »

I am reusing a 3D printed motor mount from my first electric build (a full size vector) that no longer exists. Yes, I crashed that one too, but at least I got over 4 years out of it and flew it in many contests.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #2 on:** March 19, 2024, 08:22:57 AM »

Motor crutch complete.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #3 on:** March 19, 2024, 08:25:45 AM »

Fuselage construction is a lot easier with this jig that I obtained many years ago from my flying buddy and coach Ed Ruane. Ed has since retired from the hobby and I no longer have a coach, which probably explains why I crash more often!

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #4 on:** March 19, 2024, 08:29:25 AM »

The top block is tacked in place for rough shaping before it gets hollowed out and the turtle deck is wrapped around the mold waiting to dry.

Airacobra · « **Reply #5 on:** March 19, 2024, 11:09:41 AM »

Great looking build, very clean. I look forward to watching this.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #6 on:** March 19, 2024, 08:18:28 PM »

Quote from: Airacobra on March 19, 2024, 11:09:41 AM

Great looking build, very clean. I look forward to watching this.

Yep, Don builds very nice stuff.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #7 on:** March 20, 2024, 05:51:59 AM »

Thanks Keith and Wayne, greatly appreciated.

Don

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #8 on:** March 20, 2024, 05:57:26 AM »

The top block is sanded close to its final shape and the turtle deck came out pretty good. The landing gear is salvaged from the Vector, but I still need to remove the paint and prepare it for the next paint scheme.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #9 on:** March 20, 2024, 06:03:06 AM »

Carved/sanded the cowl after gluing a bunch of wood together to get the right size for it, and added formers to the turtle deck. I was able to figure out how to attach the cowl with one 440 allen head.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #10 on:** March 21, 2024, 06:34:49 AM »

Time to start on the wing. I obtained an SV foam wing from Randy Smith about 6 or 7 years ago and decided to use it for this build. I've only built one plane with a foam wing, and it sure does cut down on build time. I sanded the trailing edge with a 3 foot sanding bar to ensure it was true, sanded the center sections for a squared fit, installed the controls and epoxied the 2 wing haves together. Seems like it came out straight!?

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #11 on:** March 21, 2024, 06:39:10 AM »

I used 2 ounce glass cloth and 30 minute epoxy on the center section and cut the flaps from a decent light weight piece of 3/8. I ordered some wood for this build from National Balsa requesting "Aero Light", and although pricey, it was good quality.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #12 on:** March 22, 2024, 06:17:03 AM »

Wing tips are next. I glued a stack of balsa together (tack glue the center) and sand to rough shape with 80 grit on a sanding bar. I leave about a 1/16 inch larger than the wing, then split them in halve which makes hollowing them out easier. Install the slider and weight box then glue them to the wing. Then sand to final shape. I keep my vacuum close at hand while sanding that much balsa.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #13 on:** March 22, 2024, 06:18:21 AM »

Rough sanding complete.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #14 on:** March 22, 2024, 06:21:34 AM »

I took this photo before final sanding and cleaning up the inside of the tips. I was able to remove a bit more wood to save a few more grams of weight.

doug coursey · « **Reply #15 on:** March 22, 2024, 10:59:35 AM »

Quote from: Don Jenkins on March 22, 2024, 06:21:34 AM

I took this photo before final sanding and cleaning up the inside of the tips. I was able to remove a bit more wood to save a few more grams of weight.

ARE YOU GOING TO TAPER THE FLAPS OR LEAVE THEM FLAT

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #16 on:** March 23, 2024, 07:14:21 AM »

I glued the wing tips in place and did a final sanding. The flaps have been tapered to 1/8 inch using the standard brass tube and sanding bar method. I leave the trailing edge squared off. I also made up the horn clips from 1/8 inch ply with 1/64 inch ply on the outside. I use the Dubro hinge slotting tool and Dubro hinges.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #17 on:** March 23, 2024, 07:16:23 AM »

Better view of trailing edge of flaps and horn clips.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #18 on:** March 23, 2024, 07:20:47 AM »

I made an adjustable trim tab for the outboard wing for function and one on the inboard wing to look uniformed. I will epoxy them into place with three 1/16 inch brass tubes after all paint work and polishing is completed. I capped the flap ends and trim tab ends with 1/64 inch ply to keep the gap nice and clean.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #19 on:** March 25, 2024, 06:24:32 AM »

I started on the stabilizer and elevators which will be half inch. The stab is framed with 3/8 inch with 1/16 inch ribs and sheeting, the elevators will be tapered to 1/8 inch with the brass tube and sanding bar method.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #20 on:** March 25, 2024, 06:28:14 AM »

Elevators are sanded and hinged to stab. I need to shape the leading edge of the stab and make up the horn clips.

Gerald Arana · « **Reply #21 on:** March 25, 2024, 11:06:59 AM »

Quote from: Don Jenkins on March 22, 2024, 06:21:34 AM

I took this photo before final sanding and cleaning up the inside of the tips. I was able to remove a bit more wood to save a few more grams of weight.

Don; I have a question: Why did you hollow out the outboard wing tip when you are going to add weight anyway?

Just asking, Jerry

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #22 on:** March 26, 2024, 06:45:23 AM »

Good question Gerald. I'm trying to reduce the weight of the plane as much as possible with a target weight around 64 ounces with a dope finish, including tip weight. Most of my planes need about .5 to .75 ounces of tip weight. It would be really bad if a solid balsa tip, (and there is a good chunk of wood in a two inch wide wing tip) added more weight than needed, then there is nothing that can be done to reduce tip weight. Just my thoughts.

Don

wwwarbird · « **Reply #23 on:** March 26, 2024, 07:22:33 PM »

Quote from: Don Jenkins on March 26, 2024, 06:45:23 AM

It would be really bad if a solid balsa tip, (and there is a good chunk of wood in a two inch wide wing tip) added more weight than needed, then there is nothing that can be done to reduce tip weight. Just my thoughts.

Yep.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #24 on:** March 27, 2024, 06:20:57 AM »

I completed sanding and shaping the stabilizer/elevators and did a final sanding on the wing. I used a simple sanding jig to get a round uniformed and blunt leading edge on the wing.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #25 on:** March 27, 2024, 06:21:39 AM »

Leading edge sanding jig.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #26 on:** March 29, 2024, 06:31:36 AM »

After a crazy amount of measurements, I tacked glued the wing in place with CA. Once I verified it was straight, I applied 30 minute epoxy with a glue syringe inside and out. I placed the top block and turtle deck in place just for the pic. I won't glue them on until I have the bottom of the fuselage completed.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #27 on:** March 30, 2024, 06:27:22 AM »

Got the controls installed and adjusted and glued the stabilizer on. Now I'll start working on the bottom of the fuselage. I'm using light weight 1/4 inch sheeting on the fuselage bottom and I need to make an access hatch for the active timer along with some air outlet openings, and the tail wheel mount.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #28 on:** March 30, 2024, 06:29:13 AM »

Top block and turtle deck just resting in place for pic.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #29 on:** March 30, 2024, 12:02:42 PM »

Looking good. What timer are you using? Crist Rigotti designed a really cool mounting plate for accelerometer pad. I used it on Endgame III through one of the cooling outlets. I thought I had a picture but I don't. If you are interested I will take a pix Monday and post it here.

Ken

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #30 on:** March 31, 2024, 06:20:11 AM »

Thanks Ken. I'm using Igor's active timer with the spin 66 ESC. I glued a piece of 1/8 inch ply parallel to the thrust line under the wing for the timer. I'll make an access hatch to get to it. Sure I'd like to see the pic of the mounting pad. Thanks.

Don

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #31 on:** April 02, 2024, 06:01:18 AM »

I sheeted the bottom of the fuselage, and did a rough sanding to shape.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #32 on:** April 02, 2024, 06:03:53 AM »

I spent a lot of time making the timer access hatch fit using 1/64 inch ply on all the mating surfaces. It keeps the edges sharp and clean and protects them from getting dinged up at the field.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #33 on:** April 02, 2024, 06:04:36 AM »

Timer access hatch.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #34 on:** April 02, 2024, 06:05:54 AM »

I also used 1/64 inch ply on the landing gear mount and cover.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #35 on:** April 02, 2024, 06:09:55 AM »

Landing gear cover. I like using 1/4 inch brass tubing for all mounting bolt holes. It keeps the hole from getting damaged from repeated use, and it looks clean.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #36 on:** April 02, 2024, 06:15:40 AM »

I used 1/64 inch ply on the cowl mating surfaces and did some more sanding inside the fuselage and cowl.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #37 on:** April 02, 2024, 06:16:51 AM »

Cowl fit came out pretty good.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #38 on:** April 02, 2024, 06:22:58 AM »

Access hatch for adjustable elevator horn and adjustable push rod, and a simple plywood tail wheel mount. I like having a removable tailwheel, it's easier to sand, paint and polish the bottom, and the plane sits flat on the building surface while working on it with the landing gear removed.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #39 on:** April 02, 2024, 12:06:32 PM »

Looking Really Good. I know what it is like to do a build thread and not get any feedback. So here is some FEEDBACK.

I told you I would post pix of the accelerator pad then I didn't. So Now I am!

I think you could still make something like this work. If it does praise Crist Rigotti, I stole if from him!

Ken

I was not too concerned with weight. On Endgame IV I am using CF Plate, 2/56 bolts and medium fuel tubing for the spacers. The springs didn't work out and I replaced them with squishable washers. Once you get the plane level on both axis it takes about 2 min to set the timer on the Fiorotti. Not sure if Igor's displays the angles but it still beats shims if you have to adjust.

Ken

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #40 on:** April 03, 2024, 06:19:13 AM »

Thanks Ken. I've only used Igor's timer on 2 ARF SV-11s and I just stuck them to the bottom of the fuselage with tape which was not parallel to the thrust line. This made the plane fly at a different speed inverted (.2 seconds difference) so I did have to shim it. I hopefully have the mounting pad on this build in the exact orientation that's needed.

Don

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #41 on:** April 03, 2024, 06:38:02 AM »

This is my last William's Brothers military pilot in my inventory. After gluing the figure together I cut off the head and glued it back on turned to the side. Someone once told me that Al Rabe came up with this. When I'm in the mood (not sure when that will be) I'll do some painting.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #42 on:** April 03, 2024, 06:51:56 AM »

Back on the timer. Fiorotti measures both the thrust line angle and the wings level angle. Before I knew this I used an adjustable pad made from a hinge with a balsa tab and one adjustment screw. Let me field adjust lap times through a hole in the bottom hatch. My bottom hatched are a bit aggressive, back of motor to wing centerline. 6 screws so I don't like taking it off! Just a thought. Love the pilot.

Ken

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #43 on:** April 04, 2024, 06:50:04 AM »

I glued the top block and turtle deck in place and glued in a piece of 1/8 inch balsa for the cockpit floor.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #44 on:** April 04, 2024, 06:51:43 AM »

I also got around to removing the paint from the landing gear and wheel pants.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #45 on:** April 04, 2024, 07:49:11 PM »

Don,

Is this an original design?

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #46 on:** April 04, 2024, 08:58:25 PM »

Quote from: Don Jenkins on April 03, 2024, 06:38:02 AM

Someone once told me that Al Rabe came up with this.

It was so he could stare down the judges as the plane came around.

Ken

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #47 on:** April 05, 2024, 05:55:52 AM »

Quote from: wwwarbird on April 04, 2024, 07:49:11 PM

Don,

Is this an original design?

I drew up the original set of plans in September of 2016 for use with a Stalker .61 with a built up wing that was 60 inches. I did make a foam mold for the turtle deck which deviated from the original plan for a built up turtle deck. This version is using a foam wing that measures 62 inches. I also made the nose 1/2 inch longer on this version for more room to move the battery around for CG.

Don Jenkins · « **Reply #48 on:** April 05, 2024, 06:09:09 AM »

I cut down a SIG 9 inch WWII canopy that already fits nicely. I'll sand in a groove for gluing it after I get the plane covered with silk span. I also glued pieces of balsa to each side of the cock pit and blended them into the top block.

Al Cantrell · « **Reply #49 on:** April 05, 2024, 11:02:03 AM »

Really beautiful work, Don. Thanks for doing a build thread on it!