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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Don Jenkins on March 19, 2024, 08:14:54 AM
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I built a plane back in 2017 that flew quite well with a Stalker .61 that I named Vertigo. Unfortunately I only got 65 flights on it and only flew it in one contest before I put it straight in on asphalt. Anyway, I decided to build another Vertigo, this time E-powered and I'm using a foam wing that I've had for about 7 years. I am somewhat reluctant to start a build thread since I sometimes get distracted from the builds for long periods of time, but I'll give it a try. The pics are of the first Vertigo before its first flight and after its last! I did collect and assemble all of the pieces so it would resemble a plane for the final pic.
Don
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I am reusing a 3D printed motor mount from my first electric build (a full size vector) that no longer exists. Yes, I crashed that one too, but at least I got over 4 years out of it and flew it in many contests.
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Motor crutch complete.
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Fuselage construction is a lot easier with this jig that I obtained many years ago from my flying buddy and coach Ed Ruane. Ed has since retired from the hobby and I no longer have a coach, which probably explains why I crash more often!
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The top block is tacked in place for rough shaping before it gets hollowed out and the turtle deck is wrapped around the mold waiting to dry.
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Great looking build, very clean. I look forward to watching this.
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Great looking build, very clean. I look forward to watching this.
Yep, Don builds very nice stuff. y1
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Thanks Keith and Wayne, greatly appreciated.
Don
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The top block is sanded close to its final shape and the turtle deck came out pretty good. The landing gear is salvaged from the Vector, but I still need to remove the paint and prepare it for the next paint scheme.
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Carved/sanded the cowl after gluing a bunch of wood together to get the right size for it, and added formers to the turtle deck. I was able to figure out how to attach the cowl with one 440 allen head.
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Time to start on the wing. I obtained an SV foam wing from Randy Smith about 6 or 7 years ago and decided to use it for this build. I've only built one plane with a foam wing, and it sure does cut down on build time. I sanded the trailing edge with a 3 foot sanding bar to ensure it was true, sanded the center sections for a squared fit, installed the controls and epoxied the 2 wing haves together. Seems like it came out straight!?
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I used 2 ounce glass cloth and 30 minute epoxy on the center section and cut the flaps from a decent light weight piece of 3/8. I ordered some wood for this build from National Balsa requesting "Aero Light", and although pricey, it was good quality.
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Wing tips are next. I glued a stack of balsa together (tack glue the center) and sand to rough shape with 80 grit on a sanding bar. I leave about a 1/16 inch larger than the wing, then split them in halve which makes hollowing them out easier. Install the slider and weight box then glue them to the wing. Then sand to final shape. I keep my vacuum close at hand while sanding that much balsa.
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Rough sanding complete.
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I took this photo before final sanding and cleaning up the inside of the tips. I was able to remove a bit more wood to save a few more grams of weight.
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I took this photo before final sanding and cleaning up the inside of the tips. I was able to remove a bit more wood to save a few more grams of weight.
ARE YOU GOING TO TAPER THE FLAPS OR LEAVE THEM FLAT
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I glued the wing tips in place and did a final sanding. The flaps have been tapered to 1/8 inch using the standard brass tube and sanding bar method. I leave the trailing edge squared off. I also made up the horn clips from 1/8 inch ply with 1/64 inch ply on the outside. I use the Dubro hinge slotting tool and Dubro hinges.
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Better view of trailing edge of flaps and horn clips.
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I made an adjustable trim tab for the outboard wing for function and one on the inboard wing to look uniformed. I will epoxy them into place with three 1/16 inch brass tubes after all paint work and polishing is completed. I capped the flap ends and trim tab ends with 1/64 inch ply to keep the gap nice and clean.
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I started on the stabilizer and elevators which will be half inch. The stab is framed with 3/8 inch with 1/16 inch ribs and sheeting, the elevators will be tapered to 1/8 inch with the brass tube and sanding bar method.
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Elevators are sanded and hinged to stab. I need to shape the leading edge of the stab and make up the horn clips.
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I took this photo before final sanding and cleaning up the inside of the tips. I was able to remove a bit more wood to save a few more grams of weight.
Don; I have a question: Why did you hollow out the outboard wing tip when you are going to add weight anyway? HB~>
Just asking, Jerry
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Good question Gerald. I'm trying to reduce the weight of the plane as much as possible with a target weight around 64 ounces with a dope finish, including tip weight. Most of my planes need about .5 to .75 ounces of tip weight. It would be really bad if a solid balsa tip, (and there is a good chunk of wood in a two inch wide wing tip) added more weight than needed, then there is nothing that can be done to reduce tip weight. Just my thoughts.
Don
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It would be really bad if a solid balsa tip, (and there is a good chunk of wood in a two inch wide wing tip) added more weight than needed, then there is nothing that can be done to reduce tip weight. Just my thoughts.
Yep.
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I completed sanding and shaping the stabilizer/elevators and did a final sanding on the wing. I used a simple sanding jig to get a round uniformed and blunt leading edge on the wing.
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Leading edge sanding jig.
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After a crazy amount of measurements, I tacked glued the wing in place with CA. Once I verified it was straight, I applied 30 minute epoxy with a glue syringe inside and out. I placed the top block and turtle deck in place just for the pic. I won't glue them on until I have the bottom of the fuselage completed.
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Got the controls installed and adjusted and glued the stabilizer on. Now I'll start working on the bottom of the fuselage. I'm using light weight 1/4 inch sheeting on the fuselage bottom and I need to make an access hatch for the active timer along with some air outlet openings, and the tail wheel mount.
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Top block and turtle deck just resting in place for pic.
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Looking good. What timer are you using? Crist Rigotti designed a really cool mounting plate for accelerometer pad. I used it on Endgame III through one of the cooling outlets. I thought I had a picture but I don't. If you are interested I will take a pix Monday and post it here.
Ken
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Thanks Ken. I'm using Igor's active timer with the spin 66 ESC. I glued a piece of 1/8 inch ply parallel to the thrust line under the wing for the timer. I'll make an access hatch to get to it. Sure I'd like to see the pic of the mounting pad. Thanks.
Don
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I sheeted the bottom of the fuselage, and did a rough sanding to shape.
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I spent a lot of time making the timer access hatch fit using 1/64 inch ply on all the mating surfaces. It keeps the edges sharp and clean and protects them from getting dinged up at the field.
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Timer access hatch.
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I also used 1/64 inch ply on the landing gear mount and cover.
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Landing gear cover. I like using 1/4 inch brass tubing for all mounting bolt holes. It keeps the hole from getting damaged from repeated use, and it looks clean.
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I used 1/64 inch ply on the cowl mating surfaces and did some more sanding inside the fuselage and cowl.
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Cowl fit came out pretty good.
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Access hatch for adjustable elevator horn and adjustable push rod, and a simple plywood tail wheel mount. I like having a removable tailwheel, it's easier to sand, paint and polish the bottom, and the plane sits flat on the building surface while working on it with the landing gear removed.
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Looking Really Good. I know what it is like to do a build thread and not get any feedback. So here is some FEEDBACK.
I told you I would post pix of the accelerator pad then I didn't. So Now I am!
I think you could still make something like this work. If it does praise Crist Rigotti, I stole if from him!
Ken
I was not too concerned with weight. On Endgame IV I am using CF Plate, 2/56 bolts and medium fuel tubing for the spacers. The springs didn't work out and I replaced them with squishable washers. Once you get the plane level on both axis it takes about 2 min to set the timer on the Fiorotti. Not sure if Igor's displays the angles but it still beats shims if you have to adjust.
Ken
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Thanks Ken. I've only used Igor's timer on 2 ARF SV-11s and I just stuck them to the bottom of the fuselage with tape which was not parallel to the thrust line. This made the plane fly at a different speed inverted (.2 seconds difference) so I did have to shim it. I hopefully have the mounting pad on this build in the exact orientation that's needed.
Don
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This is my last William's Brothers military pilot in my inventory. After gluing the figure together I cut off the head and glued it back on turned to the side. Someone once told me that Al Rabe came up with this. When I'm in the mood (not sure when that will be) I'll do some painting.
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Back on the timer. Fiorotti measures both the thrust line angle and the wings level angle. Before I knew this I used an adjustable pad made from a hinge with a balsa tab and one adjustment screw. Let me field adjust lap times through a hole in the bottom hatch. My bottom hatched are a bit aggressive, back of motor to wing centerline. 6 screws so I don't like taking it off! Just a thought. Love the pilot.
Ken
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I glued the top block and turtle deck in place and glued in a piece of 1/8 inch balsa for the cockpit floor.
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I also got around to removing the paint from the landing gear and wheel pants.
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Don,
Is this an original design?
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Someone once told me that Al Rabe came up with this.
It was so he could stare down the judges as the plane came around. LL~
Ken
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Don,
Is this an original design?
I drew up the original set of plans in September of 2016 for use with a Stalker .61 with a built up wing that was 60 inches. I did make a foam mold for the turtle deck which deviated from the original plan for a built up turtle deck. This version is using a foam wing that measures 62 inches. I also made the nose 1/2 inch longer on this version for more room to move the battery around for CG.
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I cut down a SIG 9 inch WWII canopy that already fits nicely. I'll sand in a groove for gluing it after I get the plane covered with silk span. I also glued pieces of balsa to each side of the cock pit and blended them into the top block.
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Really beautiful work, Don. Thanks for doing a build thread on it!
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I drew up the original set of plans in September of 2016 for use with a Stalker .61 with a built up wing that was 60 inches.
Thanks Don, carry on! :)
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Thank you Al and Wayne for the kind words. I really got the "building bug" and I'm getting out to the shop several hours a day almost every day. I tack glued the rear top block and got it rough sanded. I use a lot of masking tape while sanding to protect surrounding areas. I'll remove it and hollow it then once back in place do a final sanding.
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Sanding complete on the rear top block. I used a piece of 1/4 inch masking tape to keep the area for gluing the fin/rudder straight and flat.
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The fin/rudder is complete. I used incredibly hard 1/4 inch balsa that I thought I would never use, and sanded in an airfoil. I don't plan on gluing it on until everything is covered with silk span. On previous builds, I've dinged up the rudder quite a bit while flipping the plane over many times while doping, putting on silk span and sanding. Might save a headache?
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I also made up the lead outs and did a good sanding on the entire plane. I used sheet rock joint compound to fill in all the minor dings and flaws. It works pretty good on bare balsa, but once dope goes on I use glaze putty. Next I'll start working on cockpit details and applying dope. I also need to make the fillet pieces for flaps and elevators which won't get glued on until after silk span is done.
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I installed the motor for these pics and found that I needed to sand a bit more on the inside of the top block to allow clearance for the motor.
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I started on cockpit details. Nothing fancy or scale-like, just a seat back, headrest and instrument panel. The instrument panel is 1/32 inch ply and I made the 1/4 inch holes with a Dremel bit. I'll paint it flat black and use J-Tech gages glued to the back.
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I made the headrest by attaching a rounded piece of 3/8 inch balsa to a threaded Dremel bit and used it as a mini lathe against a sanding bar with 180 grit paper. The seat back was sanded from a piece of 1/4 inch balsa.
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After some dope, primer and sanding, each piece will be painted flat black and glued in after painting the cockpit area flat black. I use Testor's flat spray enamel for plastic models. It works pretty good for this purpose.
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After some dope, primer and sanding, each piece will be painted flat black and glued in after painting the cockpit area flat black. I use Testor's flat enamel for plastic models. It works pretty good for this purpose.
Don:
I ran across these looking for paints I could mix for cockpit, etc. They are water based acrylic, cheap and come in a zillion colors.
https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Craft-Paint-Stencils/Acrylic-Craft-Paints/Crafter-s-Collection-Acrylic-Craft-Paint/p/533
A plane is not a plane without a cockpit ! What is cool about these colors is that they are very thick, intended for mixing. I will be going over this color on mine with a cockpit gray then rubbing it some to give the worn look with the zinc chromate base.
I really like what you are doing, keep it up!
ken
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Very nice Ken! You have way more patients than me when it comes to the cockpit! I have been using water based paint for my pilot, should finish him up today.
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Don,
Appreciate your taking the time to post a very comprehensive thread. The photos and
captions were excellent. The workmanship and engineering were pretty darn nice as well.
Good job.
Cheers.
Warren Wagner
Bradenton, FL
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Thank you Warren, very kind of you. Here is the paint scheme I plan on using. I drew this up for my Dreadnought a few years back but never used it. I will use all Randolph dope.
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Great thread.
Love the finish scheme.
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Great thread.
Love the finish scheme.
Thanks Jeremy. How does that Brodak SV-11 fly?
Don
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I got my shipment of dope from Aircraft Spruce and 4 rolls of medium silk span from Easy Built Models. While I was waiting for materials I cleaned my shop, which included painting the walls and base boards, which were covered with overspray from previous builds. I also painted the pilot! Now back to work on Vertigo II!
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I brushed 3 coats of non-tautening butyrate clear (thinned 50%) on the plane and all parts. I also sanded lightly between each coat with 320 grit paper. Now the fun starts with applying silk span.
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Applied silk span to some parts by wetting with a spray bottle, lay it on the part and brush on dope. Then rub with finger to get good adhesion.
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Sanded the edges to remove the excess silk span with 320 grit paper and then brushed on another coat of clear. I'll put on a total of 3 coats of 50% thinned clear before spraying with primer.
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I got distracted from the build for a while to do yard work and refinish my front door (honey do list). Anyway I got some time to get into the shop and I finished applying silk span to the plane and all parts. I also brushed on 3 coats of dope and sanded each coat with 320 grit paper.
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I'll epoxy the rudder in place next and use Super-Fil to make a fillet before I glue on the balsa fillet pieces for the stab/elevators that I still need to make.
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I did get the cockpit pieces prepped and painted. I decided to make a 1/64 inch ply cockpit floor instead of trying to get the balsa cockpit floor prepared for paint. It was easier and used a lot less material to finish. I'll complete the instrument panel with J-Tech gages.
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I made the fillet pieces for the flaps. I sanded a piece of 1/2 inch balsa with the tube and sanding bar method to an 1/8 inch taper.
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Then sanded a little at a time until I got a really nice fit between the flap and fuselage, then capped the ends with 1/64 inch ply.
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Then sanded a little at a time until I got a really nice fit between the flap and fuselage, then capped the ends with 1/64 inch ply.
Not too many people use wing flap fillets anymore. I have no idea why. They really help reduce tail flexing.
Nice - Ken
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I TACK GLUE THE FILLET TO THE FLAP AND SAND TO MATCH THE FLAP...PUT SOME MASKING TAPE ON THE FLAP SO YOU DONT SAND THE FLAP
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I TACK GLUE THE FILLET TO THE FLAP AND SAND TO MATCH THE FLAP...PUT SOME MASKING TAPE ON THE FLAP SO YOU DONT SAND THE FLAP
That would certainly work, except in my case the trailing edge of the wing is 1/2 inch thick and the flaps are 3/8 inch. That's the Randy Smith SV design. So my fillets are slightly larger than the flap all the way to the trailing edge.
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I did cover the fillets with silk span before gluing into place.
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I used Super-Fil for the tail fillet. I applied with a glue syringe then wipe with my finger wet with alcohol. On the vertical flat section I used a piece of 1/32 inch ply wet with alcohol. This makes the Super-Fil really smooth and it cuts down on sanding once cured.
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I use Super-Fil for the tail fillet. I applied with a glue syringe then wipe with my finger wet with alcohol. On the vertical flat section I used a piece of 1/32 inch ply wet with alcohol. This makes the Super-Fil really smooth and it cuts down on sanding once cured.
That's the way aha-aha, we like it aha-aha... y1
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That's the way aha-aha, we like it aha-aha... y1
YEP!!!
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A light sanding on the Super-Fil with a brass tube wrapped in 220 grit paper then a second sanding with 320 and its ready for primer.
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I took a few days off to fly at Joe Nall at Triple Tree in Woodruff, SC. A very nice venue with a decent turn out, and a really great group of people. Now back to building. I finished the wing fillets with Super-Fil.
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Light sanding with 180 grit wrapped around 3 different sizes of brass tubes and the fillets are complete.
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I made the elevator fillet pieces and covered them with silk span before gluing into place. Next I'll use Super-Fil for the fillets.
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I spent a lot of time aligning the flaps and elevators with the adjustable push rod when installing the fillet pieces. I think I got them really close to neutral.
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Completed the tail fillets, except for a light sanding. I'll start working on the cockpit next.
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I finished the instrument panel. I'll sand the groove for the canopy then paint the cockpit flat black.
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It's been very entertaining and educational to follow this build thread—especially knowing the quality of the work on your planes. Thanks for doing it.
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It's been very entertaining and educational to follow this build thread—especially knowing the quality of the work on your planes. Thanks for doing it.
You are certainly welcome Jake! Thank you!
Don
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I sanded the area to attach the canopy. Next I'll prep the area for paint.
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Canopy fit is pretty good. I also learned a trick from Sparky concerning the Williams Brother pilot I'm using. After some time in the sun in the hot cockpit the glue joint at the top of the head sometimes separates and it looks bad. To prevent this, I drilled a hole in the bottom of the pilot and poured in a small amount of epoxy so it cures in the top of the pilot's head.
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I drilled a hole in the bottom of the pilot ...
Is that legal? LL~ Is the hole in the back of the cockpit to keep the canopy from fogging or to give all of the little balsa flakes trapped in the fuselage a way out? VD~
Looking good - Ken
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Is that legal? LL~ Is the hole in the back of the cockpit to keep the canopy from fogging or to give all of the little balsa flakes trapped in the fuselage a way out? VD~
Looking good - Ken
The hole in the cockpit is to allow clearance for the flap horn and pushrod. But even if there was not a clearance issue, I would still make a hole so the canopy won't fog, and to allow a place for all the balsa dust in the fuselage to escape and accumulate on the inside of the canopy. That always makes me happy when that happens! NOT!
I have a friend (that is truly a master builder) that was using low pressure air to blow out/off balsa dust on a plane and he inadvertently pressurized the inside of the plane through a hinge slot and blew out the silk span of an open bay. OUCH! Dust isn't really that bad.
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I prepped, primed, sanded and painted the cockpit area. The question is, can I get the detail items installed without getting glue everywhere?
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I got all the cockpit pieces epoxied in without making too much of a mess.
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I got the canopy glued on without any issues. Next I'll make a fillet with Super-Fil and once that is blended in, I'll shoot a coat of primer.
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I did a final assembly of all parts/pieces to ensure everything still fit properly after covering with silk span and brushing on 6 coats of clear. I try to leave a large enough gap on all covers, flaps, and elevators such that when all painting is done everything still fits and moves freely.
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A lot of careful sanding with 4 different sizes of plywood with 180 grit stuck on...
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...and the canopy fillet is done.
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Beautiful work!
Mike
Sent from my SM-A146U using Tapatalk
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Thanks Mike, greatly appreciated!
Don
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I decided to use Brodak primer on this build. It's always worked well for me in the past and I was disappointed when it was discontinued. I found an old can of it in my paint locker and a friend gave me two cans he didn't plan on using. The first coat is on.
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All the parts/pieces on jigs of some sort.
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I finally found the time to start sanding the first coat of primer. Wet sanding with 320 grit works best. Dry sanding does work and the primer does powder nicely, but the paper loads up too fast. I'm trying to take off as much primer as I can without scuffing the silk span. Lots of fun!
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I finally found the time to start sanding the first coat of primer. Wet sanding with 320 grit works best. Dry sanding does work and the primer does powder nicely, but the paper loads up too fast. I'm trying to take off as much primer as I can without scuffing the silk span. Lots of fun!
The only part of finishing that I actually enjoy - wearing a mask!
Looking good. - Ken
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The only part of finishing that I actually enjoy - wearing a mask!
Looking good. - Ken
Well at least you enjoy something about finishing. I sometimes wish I was good at iron-on covering.
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Well at least you enjoy something about finishing. I sometimes wish I was good at iron-on covering.
I am only half good at Iron on but I am fully bad at paper and dope. I actually did finish one with a contest finish in dope but I hated every minute of it. I am cut out to build and fly. Not into dope. LL~
Ken
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After a week out of the country for a vacation, I have returned with renewed vigor to sand primer! About three hours a day for four days and the first coat of primer is sanded.
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I did use glaze putty on the deeper flaws and defects that 2 coats of primer wouldn't fill. I'll shoot another coat of primer and repeat.
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It appears you are at the point where you could make a test flight. Having to revert to the #11 to fix a building "oops" is much simpler before the 20 point finish is applied. If you do, it will be a bit nose heavy since most of the finish is aft of the CG. Give it some thought, electric is changing everything.
Ship looks beautiful so far. Hope you are still committed to the artwork you showed us earlier - Ken
PS - I may be premature - do you have removable hinges?
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Thanks Ken. I don't have removable hinges, and I won't glue the control surfaces on until all paintwork and polishing is done. Based on that, I'll have to wait for the maiden flight when it's complete. Hopefully I won't have to cut into my 17 point finish! Yes, I am committed to the paint scheme I showed previously. I did shoot another coat of primer yesterday and I'll start sanding again soon!
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Thanks Ken. I don't have removable hinges, and I won't glue the control surfaces on until all paintwork and polishing is done. Based on that, I'll have to wait for the maiden flight when it's complete. Hopefully I won't have to cut into my 17 point finish! Yes, I am committed to the paint scheme I showed previously. I did shoot another coat of primer yesterday and I'll start sanding again soon!
It is not too late to use the .025 full span wire method Brett has discussed. Just a thought...
Ken
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I haven't stopped working on this build. I'm still sanding the second coat of primer every day and chasing every pit and crevice of wood grain with glaze putty that won't sand out. Very tedious and time consuming. I'm thankful that I have a TV and the MLB channel in my shop so I don't lose my mind while sanding! I hope to start shooting color next week!
Don
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I shot two light coats of dope on all the red parts. A few more touch ups on the plane and flaps and I'll shoot some yellow.
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I finally gave up on chasing defects with glaze putty, air brushing primer and wet sanding, and shot 2 coats of Lockhaven yellow.
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The dope went on pretty good without any glaring defects.
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Now the fun starts with masking the paint scheme!
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That yellow covers very nice. Is that Brodak dope?
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That yellow covers very nice. Is that Brodak dope?
It's Randolph dope, which is pigment rich, and it does cover well, but the reds and yellows still don't cover as well as other colors. The preparation of the base is really key to get a nice uniform appearance. Even with the white Brodak primer, if there is any blotch, bare balsa, glaze putty spot or blue Super Fil visible, it may not get covered. So my technique is to thin primer 75% and lightly air brush those areas just enough so they are barley visible, then wet sand with 600 grit to rid of any over spray. It's time consuming and I don't think it adds that much material (weight) but its worth it once the color goes on.
Don
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Shot clear on all the parts/pieces.
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A friend made up some paint masks for me based on this WORD document I sent him.
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I wet sanded all minor defects from the entire plane with 2000 grit as well as the canopy to rid of scratches/defects and to blend the paint line. I also started to lay out the paint scheme. It's always easy to do one side, but getting the other side to match is a different story!
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I usually don't get any time during the weekend to get into the shop, but I was able to sneak out yesterday for an hour and got a bit more paint scheme masked.
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I usually don't get any time during the weekend to get into the shop, but I was able to sneak out yesterday for an hour and got a bit more paint scheme masked.
Purdy! - Ken
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Thanks Ken!
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I intend to paint the trim on the fuselage before masking the wings and stabilizer. I think it will make me believe I am making more progress!
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I intend to paint the trim on the fuselage before masking the wings and stabilizer. I think it will make me believe I am making more progress!
LL~ LL~ LL~
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OK, I changed my mind and decided to keep masking the remainder of the plane. For some reason I actually felt like masking for several hours yesterday.
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Almost done laying out the paint scheme, just need to do one side of the fin/rudder. Something I learned when using the 3M fine line vinyl tape is to leave a tab which is easy to get a hold of when removing the tape. Otherwise this tape sticks so well, you have to dig at the edge to lift it which usually results in gouging the finish.
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Thanks for showing a novice how it's done.
Mike
Sent from my SM-A146U using Tapatalk
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You are welcome Mike and thanks. I learn something new with each build (usually after screwing up) and I know a few guys that build and finish well, and they are always happy to give me tips!
Don
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Figured out where to install the paint masks.
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It took a while to cover the plane with paper to prevent overspray. I used a trash bag for the tail but I had just removed it for the photo.
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I used a different set of paint masks than my original plan. I used the same font as on the original Vertigo.
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Starting to mask everything that stays yellow.
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Masking done and ready to shoot some black trim.
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Black is on.
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Mask removed from the areas to be painted red.
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I need to let the black completely dry before masking, then shoot red.
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Black is masked off, ready for red.
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Red went on without too much trouble, except it really doesn't cover well.
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I had to do a third light coat to get rid of color gradients.
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I had to do a third light coat to get rid of color gradients.
That is one red airplane. My second favorite color to look at and my least favorite color to paint!
Ken
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Red went on without too much trouble, except it really doesn't cover well.
What paint are you using?
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What paint are you using?
Randolph dope, which is similar if not the same as Brodak's. I've used the red and yellow Brodak dope before and they didn't cover well either, and I do mix the paint thoroughly before and after thinning. The red seems to get darker with each coat and you have to be real careful when wet sanding defects because the more you sand the lighter the red gets. At least that is my experience.
Don
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I had to do a third light coat to get rid of color gradients.
In my experience with Randolph red, when spraying over white or gray, it covers in just over 1 pass. Maybe I’m laying the paint on more than I should but it covers really easily. Painting over yellow may be a different story.
Looks great so far! Can’t wait to see the finished product
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Thanks Matt. I can only assume different guns with different settings may make a difference. When I painted red on the "parts" over white primer, two light coats covered well. Painting over the yellow is probably what caused my issue, it had an orange tint to it after one light coat and after the second coat I could make out some darker areas. The third coat worked.
Don
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Unmasking the entire plane is like Christmas morning unwrapping presents. Before applying color I did air brush clear on all the spots where tape overlapped to minimize bleed. It worked well since nothing bled under the tape.
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I have a few minor touch ups to do along with wet sanding minor defects and the paint lines with 2000 grit, before applying clear. Overall, I am pretty happy with the way it turned out. Sometimes unfortunate things happen when painting a plane and removing tape.
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I had a few areas where the paint pulled up down to the primer when removing the tape.
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I wet sanded those areas with 2000 grit then airbrushed clear to seal the paint. Then back-masked and air brushed color, then wet sanded with 2000 again.
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Once clear goes on and it's polished, it should be as good as if it didn't happen. This photo was taken after the color was airbrushed and the paint lines were sanded with 2000 grit.
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Wow!!!
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I had some paint problems with the battery compartment cover and ended up stripping it down and starting over. I finished it yesterday.
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The paint lines matched up better on this go-around. My next paint scheme will avoid stripes on the battery cover!
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I had a few areas where the paint pulled up down to the primer when removing the tape.
Next time, more thinner. y1
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Next time, more thinner. y1
Yep, like I said earlier in this thread, I learn something new with each build, usually after screwing up something!
Don
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Yep, like I said earlier in this thread, I learn something new with each build, usually after screwing up something!
Don
If we learn from our mistakes then why can't I get 20 points and fly a 640 pattern after all of this screwing up! LL~ LL~
Beautiful plane - Ken
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If we learn from our mistakes then why can't I get 20 points and fly a 640 pattern after all of this screwing up! LL~ LL~
Beautiful plane - Ken
I'm assuming that's a rhetorical question! Someone once told me right after I crashed a plane, if it was easy, everyone would be doing it! Thanks Ken.
Don
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I would just like to say awe inspireing work thank you so much for sharing
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I would just like to say awe inspireing work thank you so much for sharing
Thanks Ronald! You are welcome. I hope this thread will help and encourage beginner/novice builders to learn techniques (and avoid mistakes) that have taken me years to figure out!
Don
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Clear is on. I shot the bottom first, then flipped it over on an old landing gear and used a piece of 1/16th inch wire in the tail wheel hole to clear the top. That way I didn't have to wait for the bottom to dry before shooting the top. Once the dope cures, I'll start the polishing process. Wet sanding with 2000/3000 grit, then polishing with fine grit compound and a palm size air driven buffer with foam pads.
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Absolutely beautiful
Ken
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Absolutely beautiful
Ken
Thanks Ken.
Don
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I temporarily installed the flaps and elevators to ensure they had proper clearance and operated freely after painting. I got lucky, no issues!
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I couldn't resist putting a few parts on to see how it would look. I guess I'm done goofing around, time to start sanding, again!
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I now have about 30 hours of wet sanding with 2000 grit and I'm about 40% complete. I decided to sand the landing gear and polish it to break up the monotony of sanding on the plane. Here's a pic of sanding before polishing.
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This is what I'm using to polish.
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Landing gear ready for installation.
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Here's a pic before wet sanding. From a few feet away it looks pretty good, but up close it looks like the paint went over sand!
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After 3 hours of sanding, the wing panel is about half done and the sanded area is completely flat and free of most defects. It should polish out well.
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I polished one elevator (on the right), it took about two hours. It think it does does make a difference, and although labor intensive, well worth it once complete, if that ever happens!
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Yes, I am still wet sanding, but now I'm about 95% complete with just a bit more on the fuselage and fin/rudder. However, I did start polishing the other day after getting bored with sanding and got the outboard wing done. If life stops getting in the way, I might finish this plane in a few weeks!
Don
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We'll need sunglasses to keep the glare down around this one!!! Mighty fine work there, Don. She's a beaut!
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Front Row!
Ken
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the kind words. Now back to sanding!
Don
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I finally completed wet sanding the entire plane. The flaps, elevators and other parts have also been sanded and polished. Now I need to do a few airbrush touch ups with color and clear where I sanded just a bit too far. Then a day or two of buffing. Getting closer!
Don
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Simply beautiful. How you can wait to fly it is above my pay grade. I would have had in the air at least once before I even put primer on it!
Ken
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Thanks Ken. I think if I flew it before I painted it (at a weight of about 50 ounces) I would probably never paint it. Then it would be my go to plane at all venues without appearance points! However, I do enjoy most of the finishing process, except wet sanding and the final polishing, which is nerve racking since you can screw things up in a hurry with a pneumatic buffer!
Don
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Polishing has commenced.
Don
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After three days of polishing I have 3 wing panels remaining. It turns out I can only polish for about 3 hours then my hands get real tired and start cramping (getting old can't be stopped)!
Don
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The bottom of the wing is next.
Don
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The bottom of the wing is polished. Next I'll glue on the elevators, flaps and trim tabs, then put all the stuff in the nose that makes it go. Bench trim it and go see if it flies!
Don
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I installed the control surfaces. I scuff the Dubro hinges with 80 grit, put a drop of 3-in-1 oil on the hinge pin and have a bunch of Q tips cut in half with a mixing cup of alcohol to wipe off the excess 30 minute epoxy as the hinges go into the slots. Once the flap/elevator is in place I make two sleeves of paper towels and masking tape that slide onto the wing/tail and the further on it goes the tighter it gets to hold the control surface against the trailing edge unit the epoxy cures. This avoids using tape directly on painted surfaces which has a high risk of something bad happening when the tape is removed (yes I learned the hard way)!
Don
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I installed the Cobra 3515 motor, spin 66 ESC and Igor active timer and got everything programmed. I should have some time today to finish bench trimming and glue some balsa in the battery compartment to keep the battery in place once I determine the CG. I still only have two flights on my recently completed Dreadnought, so I plan to keep trimming that until it's dialed in, then I will maiden this one.
Don
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Vertigo II is ready to fly after a 15 month build! That's a better time line than my recently completed Dreadnought, which was on and off for about 4 years! Thanks to those of you who took a look at this thread and for those who made some nice comments.
I'll give a maiden flight report at some time in the near future. My current plan is to take this one to the Nats in July, if all goes well.
Don
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Looks incredible Don!! Been following this for a while. Another front row airplane for sure!
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Looks incredible Don!! Been following this for a while. Another front row airplane for sure!
Thanks Matt! Greatly appreciated, are you going to make Brodak's or the Nats this year! I plan on attending both, hopefully I'll see you there!
Don
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Thanks Matt! Greatly appreciated, are you going to make Brodak's or the Nats this year! I plan on attending both, hopefully I'll see you there!
Don
Won’t be at Brodak. The NATS is doubtful this year as we’re in the middle of getting ready to move. I hope I can make the NATS but we’ll see