If your hinges are recessed in the flaps how does the wire go straight through all the hinges?
Don't recess your hinges into the flaps, whether or not you are using a single hinge pin. If you use a conventional hinge line shape, the center of the hinge pins should be aligned with the gap, not recessed into the flap. If you just recess it into the flap, the "point" of the wedge translates up and down and that is both incorrect from an aerodynamic standpoint (since the gap changes as you move the flap), it also makes it very difficult to seal the hinge line later, since the tape ends up having move up and down.
If you want to use multiple pins instead of a continuous hinge, and want a "zero" gap (also a big mistake, but lots of people think they want to) you have to recess it into both the trailing edge and the flap, so they line of the hinge pins line up with the point of the wedge.
The alternative is a recessed hinge with a *rounded* flap LE, in which case the hinge should be recessed by exactly the radius of the rounded part. This is sort of like the Yatsenko models. Note that I have had my first chance to examine a Shark close up (rather than taking the Top 5 picture at the NATs) and it is seemingly intended to work that way. Unfortunately, it was not properly centered and the gap closed up in one direction and opened up in the other, meaning the hinge pin was not properly located. I strongly discourage anyone from building them this way, as it makes it effectively impossible to seal properly. If you must, "lap" them by sticking 220 grit sandpaper to the TE of the wing, then move the flaps up and down as you push the flap into the TE, so it makes absolutely certain the radius on the radius on LE of the flap is perfectly centered on the hinges, so the gap is perfectly constant throughout the travel.
This stuff is FAR more important that the usual aerodynamic "numbers" nonsense we discuss in the winter months.
Brett