The wing has a tapered LE and is tapered in thickness so, I can't slide it in from the side. I guess the usual thing to do is cut the bottom out of the fuselage and glue the wing in then glue the fuselage back together? Has anyone just built the fuselage on the wing? Side the sides in from the wing tips then glue the former's in. There would be a slot for the flaps that would be filled in later but maybe better than cutting the plywood doublers in half?

If I brush on 3 coats of nitrate thinned 50/50 then tack down some polyspan lite with nitrate 25/75 would I still be able to epoxy the wing in the fuselage or would I eventually get some kind of delamination or wing joint failure? I've found several posts but no clear consensus on this. I would overlap the polyspan in the middle by 3/4" so the epoxy in the joint would only have to go through one layer polyspan lite but essentially you're still only gluing to nitrate dope.

Would like to cover the wing and fuselage before I mate them but sure don't want it to come apart.

MM

So that's a no one the first question, how about the second?


MM

I thought everyone built their wings and fuselages separately?

With the fuselage build allowing for access to the control horn wire either before or after it's in place.

Then attaching the wing to the fuselage.

I know of no other way.

I still do tapered wings the old way.  Cut Fuse bottom out making cuts at an angle.  I also have the flaps already on the wing.  Once wing is in place, glue the cut section back in place.  Use ply scab over the inside of the cut.  

Now once wing is in place with some glue and doesn't move, I take strips of fiber glass and epoxy glue on the inside fuse wing joint.  Being as I also have the bell crank posts sticking above and below the wing surface I put my ply plates over the post ends before doing the fiber glass on the wing/fuse joint.  So far no failures.  

What do you use to fill the gap left by the blade you saw the fuselage with ply, basswood?

MM

I use a 1/64 plywood shim to fill this gap. I use a razor saw to cut the fuse, so the gap is minimal to begin with and the 1/64 ply is close to a perfect fit. I back up the cut area with another piece of 1/64 inside the fuse extending about an inch fore and aft of the cut.

Mike