Author Topic: Spray gun cleaning methodology (Read 2229 times)

Randy Powell · « **on:** November 20, 2007, 04:25:57 PM »

So, I have a new spray gun and I was wondering, for all you painting experts out there, what method do you use to clean the gun. Typically, I just shoot some thinner through the gun while it's in use to clean out previous paint. When I'm done painting, I usually take it partially apart (nozzle and needle) and run thinner through it, trying to get as much paint out of the thing as I can. But usually there is some paint stuck in various nooks and crannies, it seems, no matter what I do. So, if someone has a better method, I'm all ears.

Mike Palko · « **Reply #1 on:** November 20, 2007, 05:30:11 PM »

Hi Randy,
I use the same method you described. I also have three (cheap) guns which I try to dedicate to similar colors (ex. darks, lights, metallic's etc.) to further prevent color mixing. I always keep one gun for clear only.

Mike

Randy Powell · « **Reply #2 on:** November 20, 2007, 08:35:04 PM »

Hi guys,

I've got a primer gun (cheap Harbor Freight job), a clear gun (a new SATA Mini-Jet) and a color gun (a DeVilbiss Finish Line gun). I'm thinking of switching the DeVilbiss and the new SATA since the SATA hasn't had any paint in it yet. My old Binks finally gave up the ghost after using it for most of 20 years. Guess I got my use out of it. The seals for that particular gun are no longer available. Sigh... It was a good gun.

Thanks for input.

tom hampshire · « **Reply #3 on:** November 21, 2007, 07:51:04 AM »

I use 2 el cheapo jamb spray guns at $20 each from Harbor, and a Badger 400 airbrush from a swap meet at $8. Parts are still available for the Badger, it does need an O ring for the tip now and then. Bought 2 HVLP guns, haven't tried them yet. The life of any of my guns looks infinite because I always clean up with acetone. It's much more aggressive than lacquer thinner. An airbrush jar of acetone for interim cleanup allows the use of separate jars for each of your trim colors. Switching jars saves a lot of time in trim and graphics/lettering. Tom H.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #4 on:** November 21, 2007, 12:26:38 PM »

Tom,

For a lot of years, I used a couple of cheap guns (Harbor Freight type of guns) and one good gun for clearcoat. I was always dinking around with the cheap guns. Seals go out, I'd get occasional problems with inadequate atomization, issues where you'd have to hit the amount of pressure just right to get it to shoot well and semi-predictably. leaks, etc. It seems there would always be issues every time I used one. I would eventually get them to work OK, but there was, it seemed, always something. I'd go through one every year or two and have to replace it. I figured, like a Bic lighter, they were disposable. But the Binks gun just kept going. It was always predictable, seldom gave me a minute's grief and just worked over a wide range of conditions and setups. Point and shoot without a second thought and every time.

I finally decided that it was silly to continue to have to buy a new gun every year or two and then have a gun that was tempremental and unpredictable. So I sprang for a really good gun (and they ain't cheap) to replace the old Binks and got a decent mid-line gun, the DeVilbiss, to use instead of of the cheap, Harbor Freight types. I figure what I put out in cash up front will save me ulcers later and at least I'm taking spray gun hassles out of the equation. If the new SATA is half as predictable and consistent as the old Binks gun was, I'll be thrilled.

I just want to insure it has a long life.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #5 on:** November 21, 2007, 01:14:17 PM »

Randy,
My cleaning regime is to flush the gun thouroughly with wash thinner and then again with clean thinner. If you are just changing colors to spray again you can just use the flush method, however it takes so little time to pull the aircap and fluid tip then flush and brush inside the fluid ports in the gun. NO METAL! inside the machined surfaces. once you have it as clean as you can by observation using a low pressure blow gun (or another spray gun, good use for HF guns) blow out all the orifices and openings before reassembling the gun. I keep a tube of "spray gun lube" on hand and a drop on the needle before reassembling it is a good idea. OBTW always pull the needle before messing with the fluid tip, saves greif down the road.
FWIW I used to keep a cheep gun filled with thinner to wash my gun on the outside with

Randy Powell · « **Reply #6 on:** November 21, 2007, 01:41:10 PM »

Mark,

What do you use for spray gun lube? I've always just used Marvel.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #7 on:** November 21, 2007, 02:04:18 PM »

There is a specific oil intended for it, I dont have a brand name, I always just get it from my supplier, I simply say, "Hey Joel, I need some more gun lube" and he puts it in my hand, I usually loose it before I use it. I think it is vegatable based instead of petroleum. I doesnt create fish eye problems if it gets in the paint stream. Marvell doesnt impress me for this purpose but again, if it works for you,,,,,,,,,,,
I will try to find out a brand name for you.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #8 on:** November 23, 2007, 11:46:33 AM »

Mark,

I sprayed color on the Cobra last night. After some dinking around, I finally found the settings for the Finish Line gun and got a nice, fairly light but covering coat of color laid on. I think I finally have that gun figured out. Nice to just paint and worry about the other 20 things that can go wrong and not have to worry about the gun, water in the line or other equipment issues.

Will Hinton · « **Reply #9 on:** November 23, 2007, 03:30:22 PM »

Randy,
I couldn't agree more, now how do we avoid sanding after the sparying is done?!!!

There MUST be a way?

@No? Drat.

Blessings,
Will

Randy Powell · « **Reply #10 on:** November 24, 2007, 12:22:16 AM »

Will,

After it was painted (silver base) I ran some 0000 steel wool over it to knock off some dust that stuck. I'm about 6 hours in to what will probably be an 8 hour taping job. I just love that, 6 hours+ of taping so I can paint for 5 minutes. This time, I'm avoiding the tape creep and possible bleed. I'm going old school and shooting clear over the tape edge before I shoot color.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #11 on:** November 24, 2007, 08:35:14 AM »

Randy. never a bad idea to seal the edges with a touch of clear.

Hey Will , dont let him fool ya, hes really just using that as an excuse to play with his new toy longer!

Randy Powell · « **Reply #12 on:** November 24, 2007, 09:11:48 PM »

Mark,

I've only shot the clear with the new gun. I used the air brush to put the clear around the edges of the tape. And it didn't work out as well as I'd hoped. Man, I wish I could find tape that would stay put. I may just start using strips of electrical tape to do curves. I have a lot of touch up to do tomorrow.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #13 on:** November 25, 2007, 12:11:48 AM »

Randy, what kind of tape are you using?
how tight of radius are you trying to pull with it and what width is the tape?

Randy Powell · « **Reply #14 on:** November 25, 2007, 03:05:44 PM »

Mark,

Hmm, let's see. 4 different kinds of 3M vinyl (the blue stuff, the green stuff (the lime green and the light green) and the tan stuff), Finesse Pinstriping's "Edge" tape, electrical tape, frisket paper, scotch tape, and some seam tape I got from my wife. I suspect the main problem is, it's colder than a well digger's knee around here and the shop, though reasonable warm, has cold surfaces and the airframe is kinda cold. I finally solved the problem by brining all my tape in and getting it warm. Sheesh! I really need to insulate the floor of the shop, that's certain.

Keith Polzin · « **Reply #15 on:** November 29, 2007, 07:17:03 PM »

Easy way? Put solvent in and "perk" it. Loosen the air cap and pull the trigger. It will percolate
and self clean.

Will Hinton · « **Reply #16 on:** November 30, 2007, 09:18:27 AM »

Randy,
The "funnest" part of all that taping for 5 minutes of spraying is the five minuytes of UNTAPING! You'll have to find a way of making that last longer if Mark is right - five minutes isn't very long to play with a new toy!

Blessings,
Will

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #17 on:** November 30, 2007, 09:51:23 AM »

kEITH,
I have done that percolating cleaning with , and still do with my siphon guns, however with HVLP and gravity feed, there are to many air passages,and I have had problems with pushing fluid up ports where it doesnt belong, my two cents worth

Keith Polzin · « **Reply #18 on:** November 30, 2007, 02:08:52 PM »

I always pull mine apart and use a brush.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #19 on:** November 30, 2007, 04:04:45 PM »

I've been shooting some thinner through it, then pulling the needle and seat and cleaning them separately then just running a paper towel down the seat threads to clean out any excess paint. Then wipe it off and put it back together. So far, so good. Takes longer to clean the gun than to shoot the paint.

Chris Edinger · « **Reply #20 on:** December 02, 2007, 11:08:07 AM »

For what its worth from an old paint and body man... taking the gun apart and brushing is the best way..soak the air cap and nozzle... then blow them out ... use brushes , pipe cleaners etc to clean back in the body as much as possible.. especially on a gravity gun.. take cup off of it .. there will be paint in the passage way to the nozzle and it does build up even if you run thinner through it.. .. this is true on siphon guns too.. brush the pick up tube and gun passage to nozzle... i guarantee u they will spray better... paint builds up in all the nooks and crannies..