Author Topic: SLC covering (Read 2926 times)

John KruziK · « **on:** January 01, 2011, 10:45:37 AM »

I was looking for info from anyone who has used slc covering. Does it get wrinkles like other iron on covering? If so how do you fix wrinkles if you paint over it. Thanks John

Eric Viglione · « **Reply #1 on:** January 01, 2011, 07:48:31 PM »

I silkspan over it... no wrinkles... I only go beyond the edges 1/2" on the open bays, I don't go over the sheeted areas.

Then I treat it like the SLC isn't there...just do my normal silkspan prep - build up some nitrate (2 coats on the wood up to the SLC edge, then the 3rd coat over everything including the SLC), put on the silkspan wet and brush down the edges with mostly thinner and squirt of butyrate, then start building up a finish.

The SLC adds tremendous strength against punctures but for the most part you forget it's even there. Great for keeping the dope/thinner from dissovling the foam on a kept foam wing too. My Avanti is several years old now, plenty of time in the Florida sun and my hot garage...no wrinkles.

EricV

Bill Little · « **Reply #2 on:** January 01, 2011, 08:22:59 PM »

Hi Eric,

Your PM the other night sold me on SLC for the project we were discussing! (double secret super special stunt project level 22 Security clearance required) I just have to give Phil a call the first of the week and have him send it! LOL!!!

I hope to see you soon.

Bill

david beazley · « **Reply #3 on:** January 02, 2011, 05:48:30 AM »

Does SLC hane adhesive, or do you need to use something to adhere it to the wood?

Bill Little · « **Reply #4 on:** January 02, 2011, 12:54:48 PM »

Quote from: david beazley on January 02, 2011, 05:48:30 AM

Does SLC hane adhesive, or do you need to use something to adhere it to the wood?

Hi David,

It has its own adhesive. It irons on like Monocoat, etc.. I do not know what "temperature" is needed on the iron since I have not used it yet. (but I don't have a thermometer for the iron, either! LOL!!) So, I'll start on very low heat and move up as needed to make it stick, but it will go over bare foam so it must not need much heat to melt the adhesive.

Big Bear

ray copeland · « **Reply #5 on:** January 02, 2011, 06:50:11 PM »

Irons on like low temp coverings, thin, great for foam wings , i have used it for 3 built up 1/2a wings, works great. And it is paintable!!

Russell Shaffer · « **Reply #6 on:** January 02, 2011, 07:56:00 PM »

I'm assuming that SLC is cheap? Where does a guy find some?

Bill Little · « **Reply #7 on:** January 02, 2011, 08:10:35 PM »

Quote from: Russell Shaffer on January 02, 2011, 07:56:00 PM

I'm assuming that SLC is cheap? Where does a guy find some?

Very cheap. Phil Cartier at the Corehouse. Almost puncture proof and extremely light. The clear covering so many combat guys use.

Big Bear

Lane Puckett · « **Reply #8 on:** January 03, 2011, 02:05:49 PM »

SLC is awesome stuff.....and cheap. But I'm a combat guy so take that for what it is worth. I do hear it works well on stunt stuff.

Looks like Phil is a vendor here

http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?board=74.0

GREAT guy to deal with, excellent service and he is one of the guys that chases after the hard to find parts for us.

Thanks Phil.

Lane

john e. holliday · « **Reply #9 on:** January 03, 2011, 08:01:47 PM »

Some examples if I can find them again. Very easy to work with. If you can't find the slick side, just try sliding it thru your thumb and finger. Want to get more before prices start going up like every thing else.

Yes that is magic marker for the numbers. But it is under the covering. jeh

Bill Little · « **Reply #10 on:** January 03, 2011, 10:41:55 PM »

I plan to use it the majority of the time as a base to apply silkspan to. But, some planes will just get Rustoleum shot over the SLC! (I guess a Scotch Brite pad will suffice for prep on the SLC to shoot paint straight on it.

)

ray copeland · « **Reply #11 on:** January 03, 2011, 11:17:58 PM »

Bill, i used Duplicolor Adhesion Promoter on this one. Just spray on and then paint , 20 or so flights and it still looks as good as day 1.

Bootlegger · « **Reply #12 on:** January 04, 2011, 05:41:31 AM »

How thick is the stuff?? Do you need to "feather" it in on the edges so that the silkspan covering will lay down flat?
Thanks for answer/advice,

john e. holliday · « **Reply #13 on:** January 04, 2011, 09:34:30 AM »

I used the scotch brite on the SLC on the planes I put silk span over. Did not wet the silk span. Used clear dope over it when laid on the SLC. Do not try feathering the SLC. The silkspan will smooth out with the coats of dope.

Eric Viglione · « **Reply #14 on:** January 04, 2011, 09:47:51 AM »

Yes, like Doc said. It's very thin, much thinner than Monokote. I didn't do anything special except go a little heavy with the brush around the edges. Don't try to feather it with sandpaper.
EricV

Bootlegger · « **Reply #15 on:** January 04, 2011, 10:00:42 AM »

Thanks Guy's I 'ppreciate the reply's...

Larry Renger · « **Reply #16 on:** January 28, 2011, 11:31:52 AM »

Has anyone done SLC over silkspan, or polyspan? You might be able to go straight to color with NO dope as the SLC bonds to the tissue underneath. I guess I need to do a test panel and see what I get.

Bill Little · « **Reply #17 on:** January 28, 2011, 02:44:47 PM »

OK, contradictions here! LOL!!!!!! (don't anyone take offense, just asking)

Eric V says:

Quote

put on the silkspan wet and brush down the edges with mostly thinner and squirt of butyrate, then start building up a finish.

Doc H. says:

Quote

Did not wet the silk span.

Ok, now what's up here??

Thanks guys,
Big Bear

john e. holliday · « **Reply #18 on:** January 28, 2011, 05:17:00 PM »

Everybody has their way of doing things. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. I had trouble trying to put the silk span over the SLC wet. For me it was easier to do the silkspan dry. I am also doing as Sparky I beleive it was that stated to do no more then two coats of dope a day and let sit for a day before sanding. I am sanding after the second coat of clear and talc has sit for at least two days.

Bill Little · « **Reply #19 on:** January 28, 2011, 07:46:21 PM »

HI Doc,

For sure, the longer you can stand to let it gas off the better. I let a plane sit for three years once before sanding it out the final time before color.. Perfect finish 5 years later! LOL!!

Bill

Martin Quartim · « **Reply #20 on:** February 04, 2011, 09:33:52 PM »

For better strength what would be better ?

A- Cover the wing open bays with SLC and Silkspan the whole wing
B- Cover the whole wing with SLC and Silkspan the whole wing
C- Cover the wing open bays with SLC and carbon veil the whole wing
D- Cover the whole wing wiht SCL and Carbon Veil the whole wing.

I never heard of C and D but thouht it could be a good option.

Thx,

Martin

Bill Little · « **Reply #21 on:** February 04, 2011, 10:04:46 PM »

Quote from: Martin Quartim on February 04, 2011, 09:33:52 PM

For better strength what would be better ?

A- Cover the wing open bays with SLC and Silkspan the whole wing
B- Cover the whole wing with SLC and Silkspan the whole wing
C- Cover the wing open bays with SLC and carbon veil the whole wing
D- Cover the whole wing wiht SCL and Carbon Veil the whole wing.

I never heard of C and D but thouht it could be a good option.

Thx,

Martin

Hi Martin,

As you know, if you apply the silkspan and CF veil the same way (using the same adhesive) the CF veil has a bit more strength.

I see no need to cover the "whole" wing with the SCL on an open bay wing. Just an inch or two outside of the bays seems to be the procedure.

How "string" do you want it to be? Bob Geiseke covered the wing panels with CF (after the wing was in the fuselage) and it caused a stress riser which snapped off a wing at the fuselage. Second hand story, but never heard it disputed! LOL!!

And I don't expect to try and fly through any barn doors while they are still closed.....

Big Bear

Author Topic: SLC covering (Read 2926 times)

Eric Viglione

Eric Viglione