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Author Topic: Oriental Tank Hatch  (Read 710 times)

Offline Richard Koehler

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Oriental Tank Hatch
« on: August 11, 2012, 09:34:33 PM »
I'm building a Brodak full fuse Oriental kit and tyring to decide how I want to build a tank hatch.  I'd like to hear how other builders have handled this modificationto the kit.  Thanks 

Online kenneth cook

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Re: Oriental Tank Hatch
« Reply #1 on: August 12, 2012, 06:50:39 AM »
                          Hello Richard, I really believe your doing the proper thing by making access. I didn't when I did mine and I'm certainly regretting when I have to the surgery. Lessons learned and each time it becomes a lesson. I would feel one easy option would be ARF Oriental method. That in my opinion would certainly be the easiest. This utilizes the all tubes forward tank . This certainly would interfere with the wire gear in the stock kit I believe. The ARF uses aluminum gear which conveniently releases on landing. This would just require some additional bracing for the gear pad. The other option would be to cut out the formers for the shape of the tank so the tank could be slid in from the front when the engine is removed. I know the nose ring hangs below the beams and this may get the tank wedged in between the first former and the beams. I would take that into account. Maybe is possible oversizing the first hole in the former. Ken

Offline Avaiojet

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Re: Oriental Tank Hatch
« Reply #2 on: August 12, 2012, 10:12:27 AM »
Richard,

You could take a look at the New American build I'm doing. You can see my tank hatch istallation there. However, here are a few photos.

Hope it helps!

Charles
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Offline Randy Powell

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Re: Oriental Tank Hatch
« Reply #3 on: August 12, 2012, 05:26:00 PM »
On an Oriental, I'd prefer a standard cowl, but whatever.
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Offline Steve Helmick

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Re: Oriental Tank Hatch
« Reply #4 on: August 12, 2012, 05:55:18 PM »
Dropping the tank out the bottom is appealing to me, because pulling the engine out is a time-consuming nuisance for a minor tank fix. IMO, it would depend a lot on what engine is going to be used, i.e., a vibrator or a smooth runner. Pulling the engine out and then sliding the tank out the front would perhaps be better for a rough runner like a stock Fox .35. A good layer of 2 oz fiberglass cloth/epoxy on the outside of the entire nose will make a lot of difference, tho.  H^^ Steve
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