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Author Topic: Build of the 35 size STILETTO kit from Walter Umland  (Read 9386 times)
kenny stevens
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« on: February 11, 2012, 11:29:57 AM »

As of yet I have not received the kit from Walter but I wanted to show the reason I am building it. The pictures are of Less McDonalds 1973  35 size STILETTO that I got from Wynn Paul a few years ago.  I flew one at the nats in 1974 in junior . Enjoy the pics and the build of  Walters kit will be posted on this thread.


* dads phone pics 434-2.jpg (232.21 KB, 1076x643 - viewed 477 times.)

* dads phone pics 431 2.jpg (250.68 KB, 1000x598 - viewed 574 times.)

* dads phone pics 432 2.jpg (202.88 KB, 800x478 - viewed 485 times.)
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« Reply #1 on: February 11, 2012, 08:14:44 PM »

Thanks for the great pics Kenny!
Can you get a close-up of the lower/right corner of the wing??

"Tight Lines!" Hoff

Wes
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« Reply #2 on: February 13, 2012, 07:08:04 PM »

Hi Wes   ok  but you have to tell me when you get the Dolphin kit from Walter.


* dads phone pics 433 23.jpg (96.51 KB, 1000x590 - viewed 445 times.)
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« Reply #3 on: February 13, 2012, 07:17:13 PM »

Hi Wes   ok  but you have to tell me when you get the Dolphin kit from Walter.

DEAL!!!

You do the same!
Got my NEW glass top leveled & ready!! Turn

Many thanks for the pic!!!

"Tight Lines!" Hoff

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« Reply #4 on: February 14, 2012, 11:23:49 AM »


E
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« Reply #5 on: February 14, 2012, 07:53:22 PM »

I still need to decide on a power plant for this plane.  Any suggestions?  I had an OS 35s in one and want to consider a 40 pa ultra light.
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« Reply #6 on: February 14, 2012, 10:09:05 PM »

"want to consider a 40 pa ultra light."

Yep!

Dats the one!

"Tight Lines!" Hoff

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« Reply #7 on: February 22, 2012, 02:52:18 PM »

I still need to decide on a power plant for this plane.  Any suggestions?  I had an OS 35s in one and want to consider a 40 pa ultra light.

Obviously, that's the one. Enya 40 Pro, if you can't go quite so highbrow on the PA!
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« Reply #8 on: February 24, 2012, 04:41:37 AM »

I do not know this motor .  Is it stock or modified by some one?     Hay Wes!  I got my kit in the mail , looks great.
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« Reply #9 on: February 24, 2012, 03:41:32 PM »

The kit is here and it looks great.  Weight, box and all is not bad.  Every thing came out undamaged so I spread it all out and checked the list. Its all here


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« Reply #10 on: February 24, 2012, 05:07:24 PM »

CONGRATS KENNY!!!

So like....

Watcha wait'n for???

Git R Dun!

"Tight Lines!" Hoff

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« Reply #11 on: February 24, 2012, 08:18:54 PM »

Hi Kenny,I think E-power would suit her nicely.Trax
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« Reply #12 on: February 25, 2012, 11:41:52 AM »

Heh, heh, Kenney, now try to put it back into the box like Walter had it. Can't be done, so one has to build the kit. I once watched him  work for an hour trying to put all the parts in to a kit box just so.  Still don't see how he does it.  Hoff Coffee
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« Reply #13 on: February 26, 2012, 06:58:40 PM »

Ok  Wes
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« Reply #14 on: February 26, 2012, 07:37:06 PM »

Hi Jeff,  I am torn but it needs to be gas..  OK lets do it .. start with a vary strait flat build surface with a perfect 90 degree back board. All laser cut parts are cut loose from sheeting and lightly sanded . The plans are folded along trailing edge and placed under glass with trailing edge against back board. Leave the build tabs on the ribs untill  sheeting on the bottom side is installed.


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« Reply #15 on: February 26, 2012, 08:03:06 PM »

Next, lay out all the ribs in order and you will notice  2 extra ribes . This is ok , stick one in each nostral and carry on. Cut the upper and lower spars to length and sand the proper angle on one, and glue together with CA. Set all the ribs up over their proper place on the plans and slide the top spar in place and glue. Next install the bottom spar and leading edge and glue in place ensuring that the wing is strait and all times.


* stletto build 012 02.jpg (178.4 KB, 800x478 - viewed 291 times.)

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« Reply #16 on: February 26, 2012, 08:46:38 PM »

"you will notice  2 extra ribs . This is ok , stick one in each nostril and carry on. "

OR...You COULD use them for a pattern and make Won O' Dem Dare wingy things like that's on top another plane of yours.... Layingdown Layingdown

Just kidding.... y1

Did you glue the bottom spar to the glass??
Thanks for the GREAT pics & instructions!
WELL DONE!

"Tight Lines!" Hoff

Wes
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« Reply #17 on: February 27, 2012, 06:47:56 AM »

Great pic's! I am really looking forward to learning from this build. It's great to see how other construction methods are done.---LOUIE  Hoff Coffee
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« Reply #18 on: February 28, 2012, 08:05:31 PM »

Hi all  .  Next we make the trailing edge from the laser cut  3/8 stock labeled so.  On a strait surface glue  the two pieces together and then glue to back end of wing. tape in place and put back on flat table to dry strait. Next fit landing gear block into wing(some sanding required ) mark the hole location by placing the 90 degree block on inside rib and marking location. Use Epoxy for this job and I like to glue tooth picks in the torsion block.


* landing gear 001 02.jpg (280.34 KB, 800x1337 - viewed 250 times.)

* landing gear 002 02.jpg (198.81 KB, 600x1003 - viewed 221 times.)

* landing gear 003 02.jpg (233.28 KB, 600x1003 - viewed 234 times.)

* landing gear 004 02.jpg (98.49 KB, 600x358 - viewed 262 times.)
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« Reply #19 on: February 28, 2012, 08:31:49 PM »

Looking GOOOOOD!
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« Reply #20 on: February 28, 2012, 11:03:49 PM »

Go! Kenny Go!

GREAT pics!

"Tight Lines!" Hoff

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« Reply #21 on: March 05, 2012, 07:50:55 PM »

Hi All  A little more work.  Build the tip weight box and set it aside.  Add small filler blocks on the sides of gear opening and make covers for gear. The covers are 1/32 ply with 3/16 balsa glued and 3 screw holes. to make covers fit flat with gear wires in slot , file the slot a little. I ordered controls from Tom Morris for this plane on Thursday and received them on Tuesday , great service. Cut the bellcrank rod to fit under the outer sheeting.


* wing sheeting 001 02.jpg (71.46 KB, 600x358 - viewed 141 times.)

* wing sheeting 002 02.jpg (190.21 KB, 500x835 - viewed 232 times.)

* wing sheeting 003 02.jpg (53.32 KB, 400x239 - viewed 246 times.)

* wing sheeting 004 02.jpg (174 KB, 500x836 - viewed 310 times.)
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« Reply #22 on: March 05, 2012, 08:06:16 PM »

Still building      Next fit the assembled bell crank and top and bottom ply and filler balsa pieces into wing and epoxy into place.  Cut the leading edge sheeting to fit and (I cheated a little, I put mine in an old lost foam buck for molding) well you can put them on the conventional way.  Install shear webing  on the spar and trailing edge with grain running vertical.


* wing sheeting 005 02.jpg (54.04 KB, 400x239 - viewed 206 times.)

* wing sheeting 006 02.jpg (155.75 KB, 500x836 - viewed 260 times.)

* wing sheeting 007 02.jpg (53.46 KB, 400x239 - viewed 178 times.)

* wing sheeting 008 02.jpg (50.24 KB, 400x239 - viewed 200 times.)
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« Reply #23 on: March 05, 2012, 08:19:29 PM »

Next   Sheet the top leading edge ensuring that the wing is flat on the table and build tabs are all in place, this makes a strait wing. After sheeting glue is dry , cut off the wing jig tabs and sand smooth but do not change couture of ribs.  Flip wing over and put the extra trailing edge stock under trailing edge and a 3/32 shim under spar at each end of wing to re jig wing for sheeting of bottom.


* wing sheeting 009 02.jpg (176.08 KB, 500x836 - viewed 281 times.)

* wing sheeting 010 02.jpg (114.83 KB, 400x668 - viewed 177 times.)
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« Reply #24 on: March 07, 2012, 08:17:14 PM »

Hi ALL  more pics..    After sheeting  locate the gear opening and open mounting holes . Fit the cover over opening and screw in to top of sheeting and cut along edges , sand and fit in hole all the way. mask tape around covers and sand flush,remove tape and final sand cover to sheeting.  I use copper tubing in the adj. lead outs for smooth controles. Mount adj. lead out inside inboard wing rib.This next part is important,  square the flat side of bell crank to the rib and trailing edge then mark the lead outs so after wing is sheeted you can put the bell crank at perfect 90 to trailing edge. This is important for adj.of flap horn later.  Mount the flap horn butted against trailing edge completely , make slot for horn vertical and check for horizontal to wing. Sheet center section.


* wing 001 02.jpg (144.92 KB, 500x836 - viewed 208 times.)

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* wing 004 02.jpg (169.76 KB, 500x836 - viewed 278 times.)

* wing 005 02.jpg (197.96 KB, 500x836 - viewed 225 times.)
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« Reply #25 on: March 07, 2012, 08:20:13 PM »

Rest of pics


* wing 006 02.jpg (51.52 KB, 500x299 - viewed 169 times.)

* wing 007 02.jpg (69.82 KB, 500x299 - viewed 225 times.)

* wing 008 02.jpg (60.93 KB, 500x299 - viewed 164 times.)

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* wing 011 02.jpg (77.71 KB, 500x299 - viewed 171 times.)
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« Reply #26 on: March 07, 2012, 08:24:24 PM »

And more pics   This is cap strip install.


* wing tip 006 02.jpg (170.73 KB, 500x836 - viewed 313 times.)
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« Reply #27 on: March 13, 2012, 10:21:48 AM »

You guys have no idea how much fun this is for me!
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« Reply #28 on: March 13, 2012, 08:19:23 PM »

Hi Les ,It really helps to have  your original for shaping around.  Wing tips are next. assemble the 3 center sections, using the doubbles for the inboard side and then the 2 top and bottom pieces .  Install the lucky boxes in flaps and elevators, assemble with hinges to locate the side to side position of the copper tubing. make shims and glue. Retrial fit flaps and elevators and look down the edge to make sure the flaps are lined  up , bend horn until they are perfect .  Glue rear fuse sections and rear doubblers  and hatch assembly.  Glue the tip weight box in place and balsa to top cover. Install cover and sand to shape.  Glue front doubblers in place and assembly the front crutch. Mount the motor and tank floor.


* fuse 452 02.jpg (64.74 KB, 500x299 - viewed 175 times.)

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* fuse 461 02.jpg (69.63 KB, 500x299 - viewed 225 times.)
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« Reply #29 on: March 13, 2012, 08:21:45 PM »

More pics


* fuse 462 02.jpg (110.45 KB, 500x836 - viewed 164 times.)

* fuse 463 02.jpg (66.27 KB, 500x299 - viewed 171 times.)

* fuse 464 02.jpg (66.15 KB, 500x299 - viewed 160 times.)

* fuse 465 02.jpg (61.88 KB, 500x299 - viewed 244 times.)
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« Reply #30 on: March 13, 2012, 09:23:17 PM »

Kenny,

Nice work, any chance of seeing it at Paduca this year?

James
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« Reply #31 on: March 14, 2012, 07:32:42 PM »

Hi James      Sorry, I am planning to paint next winter. After the assembly I will get back to the Shark 45 that will be ready for the nats.
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« Reply #32 on: March 14, 2012, 07:57:09 PM »

Hi James      Sorry, I am planning to paint next winter. After the assembly I will get back to the Shark 45 that will be ready for the nats.
Kenny, we'll look forward to seeing it.  I'm going to try and get a Caprice finished for the Nats instead my worn Shark 45, although I may forgo classic at the Nats to practice for open.

James
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« Reply #33 on: March 14, 2012, 08:00:03 PM »

Hi All     Tonight  I glued fuse sides to crutch, vary important to keep sides aligned and all tight as it dries.  Do all hinges before any  shaping  so the tool can align better and sight down elevator to make sure they are aligned. The horns are tweakable, just twist until perfectly strait.


* 001 02.jpg (150.77 KB, 500x836 - viewed 156 times.)

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* 003 02.jpg (73.36 KB, 500x299 - viewed 171 times.)
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« Reply #34 on: March 14, 2012, 08:20:21 PM »

Hi Again James      We are planning a tribute to Lew McFarland at the nats this year. I know of 4 Shark 45's and hopefully a Dolphin . I would love to have a picture of  10 of Lew's planes at the nats to frame and give to Lew;s family.  I think an invitation in open forum might be in order.  It would be cool if your shark could be included in the pic even if you don't fly it.
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« Reply #35 on: March 14, 2012, 09:13:55 PM »

Hi Again James      We are planning a tribute to Lew McFarland at the nats this year. I know of 4 Shark 45's and hopefully a Dolphin . I would love to have a picture of  10 of Lew's planes at the nats to frame and give to Lew;s family.  I think an invitation in open forum might be in order.  It would be cool if your shark could be included in the pic even if you don't fly it.

Dick Carville has a new really nice rendtion of Lew's Akromaster - hope he is at the NATs too.
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« Reply #36 on: March 14, 2012, 10:54:49 PM »

Hi Again James      We are planning a tribute to Lew McFarland at the nats this year. I know of 4 Shark 45's and hopefully a Dolphin . I would love to have a picture of  10 of Lew's planes at the nats to frame and give to Lew;s family.  I think an invitation in open forum might be in order.  It would be cool if your shark could be included in the pic even if you don't fly it.
Knowing that you can count me in, I'll try and squeeze one more out of the Shark.  I spoke with Lew on the phone once and he seemed like a true gentleman, earned my respect right off the bat.

James
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« Reply #37 on: March 19, 2012, 07:57:39 PM »

 Hi all  Glue fuse sides to motor crutch on top of plans to align properly . Then align and glue all formers in place. Assemble rudder built up then sheet top and bottom.  Build tail wheel mount by gluing two  1/16 ply pieces to 1/8 ply floor and then glue bass wood up wight piece in place and drill 1/16 hole. Locate and glue mount in place on fuse. Use the opening in bottom block to help and  also to align tail wheel cover for screws.


* ruder tail wheel 001 02.jpg (71.22 KB, 500x299 - viewed 138 times.)

* ruder tail wheel 003 02.jpg (166.13 KB, 500x836 - viewed 194 times.)

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* ruder tail wheel 007 02.jpg (147.38 KB, 500x836 - viewed 161 times.)
« Last Edit: March 20, 2012, 07:21:49 PM by kenny stevens » Logged
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« Reply #38 on: March 20, 2012, 08:28:48 PM »

More work done.   This shows the hidden cowl mounting to bottom block.  Glue the cowl sides to bottom then glue the front block to cowl and fuse nose then sand angle to fit . This pic is how to sand the angle on the trailing edge with out damaging rib caps. Fit the cowl on to the fuse and sand the front flush. Mount the motor and make the openings in cowl for motor to fit. Use sand paper stuck to the back of the spinner to sand to proper depth for balsa nose ring. Glue nose ring to fuse(centering with spinner) and sand for proper depth for ply nose ring. Glue turtle deck together and shape outside and hollow inside. Sand elevator and flaps using the music wire method . For flaps use 1/4 for hinge side and top to 3/16 and bottom to 1/8. For elevators use 3/8 for hinge side and top with 1/4 and bottom with 1/8.  I made a sanding block set to 32 degrees for sanding hinge side angles. P.S. mark center lines first and move slow. Recheck alignment of flaps and elevator after and tweek horns if needed.  Assemble top block,cowl, motor and a spinner you don't mind sanding and shape front to spinner.


* fuse block 001 02.jpg (158.4 KB, 500x836 - viewed 179 times.)

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* fuse block 007 02.jpg (74.37 KB, 500x299 - viewed 198 times.)
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« Reply #39 on: March 20, 2012, 08:33:03 PM »

 More pics


* fuse block 008 02.jpg (57.12 KB, 300x501 - viewed 194 times.)

* fuse block 009 02.jpg (65.14 KB, 500x299 - viewed 157 times.)

* fuse block 010 02.jpg (64.23 KB, 500x299 - viewed 143 times.)

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* fuse block 015 02.jpg (76.03 KB, 500x299 - viewed 136 times.)

* fuse block 017 02.jpg (83 KB, 300x501 - viewed 161 times.)

* fuse block 018 02.jpg (64.45 KB, 300x501 - viewed 214 times.)
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« Reply #40 on: March 20, 2012, 10:57:28 PM »

Love the weights. I gave all my heavy tools to my son many years ago when he decided to become a Diesel mech like I was. Are those 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch drive? They are heavy regardless.
Meanwhile I am getting a kick out of the photos.  Real close to my 585 version of the Stiletto. Hoff Hoff
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« Reply #41 on: March 21, 2012, 08:41:36 PM »

Hi all  This is the most fun.   With fuse and motor and spinner together, shape nose down to spinner and top block. Remove motor and shape cowl then drill alignment pin into nose ring and slightly into cowl. Strengthen hole with c.a.  To lighten top block mark location of fuse formers on block and remove center section. Install small supports at former location and cut slot in turtle deck to match .  Glue turtle deck to top block and lay aside.  Next we assemble all the parts and see what it weighs.


* fuse shapping 001 02.jpg (55.28 KB, 500x299 - viewed 190 times.)

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* fuse shapping 004 02.jpg (76.48 KB, 300x501 - viewed 154 times.)

* fuse shapping 005 02.jpg (71.75 KB, 500x299 - viewed 161 times.)
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« Reply #42 on: March 21, 2012, 08:49:50 PM »

Hi Ty     There are both 3/4 and 1/2 drive. The deep well large sockets are good 90 degrees and the 3/4 's are just heavy. I have been a mech for Infiniti and Nissan for 27 years and Raced formula cars for 9 years.  Good experience for playing with toy airplanes and the people are friendlier .
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kenny stevens
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« Reply #43 on: March 22, 2012, 08:41:20 PM »

More work.  Before installing the wing, cut a small section of sheeting out to drop push rod in wing some. Cut a small piece of fuse out to let push rod pass to center of fuse also cut slots out behind wing opening  for horn to slide into after wing is installed. These pieces will be put back in so save them. Measure from the center of wing out on both sides 14 inches and mark. This will be used for triangulation of wing later. Cut 2 small pieces of tin and make clips to hold horn mounts together when installing. Put the flap horn in fuse slots and install the wing.  To triangulate the wing stick a T pin centered in tail of fuse and tie a string or thread on to it then wrap tape around a spot that reached the 14 inch mark on wing. put tape on a ruler and mark every 1/8 inch for an inch.  swing thread and tape from one wing side to the other and adjust until the measurement  is the same on both sides with the wing center,centered in fuse. Glue with 30 min. epoxy and check wing parallel and triangle , level the table and check wing incidence . Put Vaseline on horn mount base at pivot and pot glue on wing side of mount and start into the slot, remove the tin clips and slid horn all the way in.  Recheck all measurements .  While glue is drying trim canopy and sand down f1a 1/6 inch so canopy sits flush with turtle deck. Cut a small grove for canopy to sit into.


* assembly 001 02.jpg (68.37 KB, 300x501 - viewed 140 times.)

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kenny stevens
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« Reply #44 on: March 22, 2012, 08:43:40 PM »

More pics


* assembly 011 02.jpg (67.21 KB, 300x501 - viewed 127 times.)

* assembly 012 02.jpg (79.2 KB, 500x299 - viewed 143 times.)

* assembly 013 02.jpg (84.65 KB, 500x299 - viewed 128 times.)

* assembly 014 02.jpg (66.78 KB, 300x501 - viewed 145 times.)
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kenny stevens
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« Reply #45 on: March 26, 2012, 08:48:44 PM »

This is the most important part for fling well.  Remember marking and taping lead outs ? This is when its used.  Align lead out marks and tape together again and adj the flap push rod until the flap lines up with the center line mark we put on the side of the fuse.  This ensures the perfect 90 degrees on the bell crank while the flap is perfectly strait with the wing. Know we can hold the flap at its mark and adj the elevator rod  until  the elevator is centered on the filler block. Tighten  and lube all ball links. I got a little ahead of my self. Lube the pivot  end of horn and install in stab.  With the airplane know sitting on its unflat bottom you need to level the table to the wing so you can put a bubble level on the stab.  Glue in stab and check for parallel to wing and horizontal to wing. Glue bottom and top block on while checking horizontal to wing of stab.  You can adj. minor twists out at this time or you can make a twist  if not checked. Glue rudder pieces together after checking the fit on plane and glue it on.


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* control system install 009 02.jpg (69.51 KB, 500x299 - viewed 146 times.)
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kenny stevens
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« Reply #46 on: March 26, 2012, 08:50:41 PM »

more pics


* control system install 010 02.jpg (66.95 KB, 500x299 - viewed 154 times.)

* control system install 011 02.jpg (74.99 KB, 500x299 - viewed 112 times.)

* control system install 012 02.jpg (59.25 KB, 300x501 - viewed 198 times.)

* control system install 013 02.jpg (80.42 KB, 500x299 - viewed 140 times.)

* control system install 014 02.jpg (73.16 KB, 500x299 - viewed 146 times.)
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« Reply #47 on: March 30, 2012, 06:43:58 PM »

Nearing the end.   Glue the Wheel doubler's to the out side 1/8 pieces and then glue the 2 center pieces and the inside cover together . I  made the wheel pants removable because  the thin wheels I used will wear quickly .To do this I made a thin collar soldered to gas tank tin and glued in between the doubbler and 1/8 out side pieces . Glue out side and inside with collar together using a piece of 1/8 wire to help center the to.  Shape, using the glue joints as a guide but leave the spot were the spats contact flat.  Glue the spats to the gear wire and shape. I made a sanding tool to sand the angle in the spats  for the pants. When making removable pants glue an alignment dowel into the spats 1/2 inch above the axle to prevent pant rotation. This is the finished product at 22.6 oz.  Landing gear is to long and will be shortened 3/4 of an inch.  This is the entire plane at 36.6 oz.  This kit was very easy to build in about a month and has all the features of a fully competitive stunt ship.  Many thanks to Walter and Less for bring this project about.  Finishing and fling will have to wait until next year.  Thanks all    Kenny Stevens


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* wheel pants 003 02.jpg (65.99 KB, 500x299 - viewed 103 times.)

* wheel pants 004 02.jpg (69.74 KB, 500x299 - viewed 129 times.)
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kenny stevens
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« Reply #48 on: March 30, 2012, 06:46:32 PM »

more pics


* wheel pants 005 02.jpg (69.21 KB, 500x299 - viewed 115 times.)

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* finish 001 02.jpg (73.93 KB, 500x299 - viewed 1183 times.)

* finish 002 02.jpg (85.69 KB, 500x299 - viewed 1196 times.)
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Bill Little
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« Reply #49 on: March 30, 2012, 07:06:43 PM »

Looks awesome (as usual! Grin ), Kenny.  I'm sure it will be a great flying model.

Bill
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James Hylton Motorsports/NASCAR/ARCA

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