I'm also in the habit of tack gluing jigs and parts to my glass top building
surface with thin CA.. I use a razor scraper or safety razor blade to remove
things. On at least one occasion, I managed to chip a small area of the glass
surface, so I'm more careful now.
As for the rod sanding method, I founding taping them in place fairly useless
for me, and I let them float. The important thing to do is frequently remove the
sawdust, because it will easily build up under your part and allow it to be sanded
too thin..
I believe Joe Adamusko showed a special sanding tool he made for the elliptical arc
shapes on his big Spits and similar elliptical winged ships.
Here's my idea - build a sanding jig using the square solid brass rod, with the rods
glued into place, with proper curvature for your flap TE as required - one for top
surface and one for bottom surface taper. You'd need a decent flat strong surface,
and I have seen some fairly inexpensive pressed wood shelf stock with laminate
(Formica or similar) surfaces. (Not all shelf stock is reasonably flat, of course.)
In reality, I don't think the flat surface is so absolutely critical for the sanding, since
the tubing diameter limits sanding, and the flaps/elevators have a little compliance. But
I like accuracy for its own sake; it could be worthwhile to build a taper sanding jig for
your favorite model.
Here's a link for an online site where you can buy small quantities of square rod for
reasonable cost:
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=82&step=2&top_cat=79I haven't actually done business with Online Metals, I just googled for square brass bar.
Just sayin'..
L.
"The policy of being too cautious is the greatest risk of all." -Jawaharlal Nehru