One of the things I have never found an acceptable solution for is clearance for the leadouts with adjustable settings. Most designs I look at simply do not have clearance for the wide range of settings available in the average leadout guide. This leads to sawing through things and sticky, or even worse, locked controls.
When I design a wing I always plot the leadouts from full forward to full back and clear out and brace the ribs to match. With a decent bracing pattern and tight cap strips, a balsa wing will stay strong and not flex too differently than the outboard, but I am not clear how you achieve that in foam which I will be using next. I plotted out the "clear" zone and it came out nearly 1/2 of the inboard wing. I am afraid that foam will crush easily or flex with out a center spar from half span out to the tip. I am also concerned about uneven flex which would affect the flaps. Should I perhaps core both panels the same?
Many, even most of you have experience with foam wings. I have used them on sailplanes but never on a PA. I would do it in Balsa with the newer slanted rib format but I will not have the tools to make it true. I really do want to get back in the air as soon as I get past rebuilding my house and shop so designing a wing and getting it made early is my plan.
Do you know how traumatic it is to be confined to your house and not be able to build? All I have is pestering all of you with dumb questions and listening to my wife complain about the germs. I am sure Psychiatrists have a neuroses it will fit into!
Ken