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  • October 31, 2020, 07:54:51 AM

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Author Topic: Kansas Twister Build  (Read 268 times)

Offline Dennis Saydak

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Kansas Twister Build
« on: July 27, 2020, 03:54:58 PM »
Thanks to Zoot's build article I was inspired to start chopping wood for this build today. I rescued the kit from a friend's collection many years ago and my custom Rossi .60 is a perfect match for this model.  I don't want to streamline the exhaust on this engine in the "usual" manner as that would affect the engine's value. So I've carefully fitted the front end to clear the exhaust. I'll just add a strip of 1/32" plywood on the outside of the cowl and visually not many people will know the difference. Anyway, here's a picture ....

Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race.....you find the rats just get faster! MAAC 13120L

Offline Dennis Saydak

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Re: Kansas Twister Build
« Reply #1 on: July 27, 2020, 06:26:15 PM »
Got a new stab blank cut out & glued together tonight. The original stab blanks were warped.

Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race.....you find the rats just get faster! MAAC 13120L

Online C.T. Schaefer

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Re: Kansas Twister Build
« Reply #2 on: July 28, 2020, 05:40:01 AM »
Outstanding!    I have a D pan. Hmmm.....

Offline Dennis Saydak

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Re: Kansas Twister Build
« Reply #3 on: July 31, 2020, 06:01:33 PM »
Stab is now airfoiled & hinged. Fuselage is hogged out for the Rossi.

Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race.....you find the rats just get faster! MAAC 13120L

Offline Motorman

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Re: Kansas Twister Build
« Reply #4 on: July 31, 2020, 07:34:24 PM »
Interesting drive washer set up, is that factory?


Motorman 8)
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Offline Dennis Saydak

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Re: Kansas Twister Build
« Reply #5 on: August 01, 2020, 07:00:18 AM »
Interesting drive washer set up, is that factory?
Motorman 8)

Yes, I believe it is. I'm the original owner of the engine, which I purchased from Bill's Miniature Engines in the early 70s.
If you Google "Rossi 60 speed custom images" you will see the same drive assembly on several examples.
Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race.....you find the rats just get faster! MAAC 13120L

Offline Motorman

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Re: Kansas Twister Build
« Reply #6 on: August 01, 2020, 09:43:48 AM »
From my K&B 40 experience, I would have a dab of blue loctite on the set screw and hope there is a flat on the crank. Also, I bottom tap the front case bolts and cut new socket head cap screws with lock washers for max depth of thread. The bolts had a 1/8" un-threaded shank for extra strength. That being a 60 and a well made Rossi I would think it should have a good bit more power than a K&B 40. 


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Offline Dennis Saydak

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Re: Kansas Twister Build
« Reply #7 on: August 01, 2020, 12:43:10 PM »
From my K&B 40 experience, I would have a dab of blue loctite on the set screw and hope there is a flat on the crank. Also, I bottom tap the front case bolts and cut new socket head cap screws with lock washers for max depth of thread. The bolts had a 1/8" un-threaded shank for extra strength. That being a 60 and a well made Rossi I would think it should have a good bit more power than a K&B 40. 

Motorman 8)

Thanks for the advice MM, but not to worry. If any of the bolts fall out I have lots of Rossi bolts from the good old days.  ;D
Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race.....you find the rats just get faster! MAAC 13120L

Offline Double Deuce

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Re: Kansas Twister Build
« Reply #8 on: August 01, 2020, 07:47:13 PM »
Dennis

Pardon my protrusion but my best advice is to thumbtack the Torque Unit to your wall to look at and get an up to date one from "The Hippie" up in the NorthWest.  Things have changed since the one pictured was made.

Double Deuce

Offline Mark wood

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Re: Kansas Twister Build
« Reply #9 on: August 02, 2020, 06:19:47 AM »
Dennis

Pardon my protrusion but my best advice is to thumbtack the Torque Unit to your wall to look at and get an up to date one from "The Hippie" up in the NorthWest.  Things have changed since the one pictured was made.

Double Deuce

For a matter of interest, what is the difference in the units?
Life is good
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Offline Double Deuce

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Re: Kansas Twister Build
« Reply #10 on: August 02, 2020, 09:36:05 AM »

Real differences are rulebook requirements for pull test, flying wire diameter in some classes, connector button size requirements.

Cannot speak for anyone's units currently made but am reasonably sure internal unit wires differ in diameter, .010  vs .012, and total number of internal wires. The units in my airplanes I know have .012 dia internals.  I know the maker.

My main concern with the older units is not really knowing the condition of the wires after near to  35-40 years of being in the package. Some I have cut open out of curiosity have looked rather bad as to the wire integrity. No real way to flux the solder joint without leaving some bad stuff.  A couple have had the solder sweat its way up inside the unit an inch or so. This changed the effective length of the internal wires, reducing the amount of motion.

Career wise, I have had one unit failure. It was on a Kansas Twister 60 airplane that I had purchased from an well known builder. First contest with it and a K&B 65, it failed the pull test rather spectacularly . Unit pulled apart and ripped the wing open to the tip. Looking at the remains showed the internal wires to be very well consumed by whatever solder fluid he used.

Did a new wing and made my own unit and later ran a 201 with it. Obviously this was before the current fuel rules.

Having a nice new build fail the pull test because of an old unit will be depressing.

Think about it.

Luke

Offline Dennis Saydak

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Re: Kansas Twister Build
« Reply #11 on: August 02, 2020, 09:49:14 AM »
I have two H&R units and one two line button crank from Hippy. One H&R is poorly made in that the internal wire loops that go around the button are of different lengths. In other words. the model would be hanging on only one loop - not good. The other H&R looks good but of course I cant check it internally for possible corrosion. It's an antique y'know.  :)

I originally intended to use the two line crank but I'd have to make a thicker wing to be able to align the button grooves in the wing center (needs a 3/8" thick wing instead of the kit 1/4" thick wing.

I'll check with Hippy to see if he's still making torque units.

DD. sorry to learn about your pull test failure. That's a bummer for sure.
« Last Edit: August 02, 2020, 11:42:17 AM by Dennis Saydak »
Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race.....you find the rats just get faster! MAAC 13120L

Offline Double Deuce

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Re: Kansas Twister Build
« Reply #12 on: August 02, 2020, 11:53:13 AM »

McGraw was the second person we authorized to make the units.  First guy had some problems and we talked to him about it and he stopped making them for sale. McGraw called after this and asked us to allow him to make them.  We went along with him for a promise of doing a proper job. He made a few and sent them along for our review. Looked good to us. Did cut one or two up to check the solder joint etc.  All looked reasonable. We never did get an accounting of how many he made. Other folks jumped in to make them but only he and the first guy asked us. I think most fliers made their own.

Having a unit failure was very distressing for me, even though I did not make it. I was involved in the original concept. I guess a failure gives reason for doing the pull test.

One loop loose is more than unsat though the short loops will take the load first. Again, there is not excuse for a loose one.

Luke


Offline Joey Mathison 9806

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Re: Kansas Twister Build
« Reply #13 on: August 02, 2020, 04:27:02 PM »
DD = 200 mph in airplane and car. Also the R of H & R
200 mph man ama#9806 joey mathison

Offline Double Deuce

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Re: Kansas Twister Build
« Reply #14 on: August 02, 2020, 05:13:47 PM »

Joey

So that is who I am. Have been wondering lately. Recently completed my 85th trip around our Sun and the mind hasn't caught up yet.

Boredom be us, sho nuff. You know you are in trouble when the first big day of your week is Wednesday, when I can put the garbage out and dream about Thursday, when I can bring the cans in.

How you holding up? Heard from John?

Take care.

Luke

Offline Dennis Saydak

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Re: Kansas Twister Build
« Reply #15 on: August 02, 2020, 06:23:26 PM »
Cool Hand Luke perhaps? When did they let you out?  :o

Thanks for the good advice DD. Now I have to put my project on hold while I try to dig up a good torque unit. :'(
Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race.....you find the rats just get faster! MAAC 13120L

Offline Mark wood

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Re: Kansas Twister Build
« Reply #16 on: August 03, 2020, 08:42:21 PM »
Real differences are rulebook requirements for pull test, flying wire diameter in some classes, connector button size requirements.

Cannot speak for anyone's units currently made but am reasonably sure internal unit wires differ in diameter, .010  vs .012, and total number of internal wires. The units in my airplanes I know have .012 dia internals.  I know the maker.

My main concern with the older units is not really knowing the condition of the wires after near to  35-40 years of being in the package. Some I have cut open out of curiosity have looked rather bad as to the wire integrity. No real way to flux the solder joint without leaving some bad stuff.  A couple have had the solder sweat its way up inside the unit an inch or so. This changed the effective length of the internal wires, reducing the amount of motion.

Career wise, I have had one unit failure. It was on a Kansas Twister 60 airplane that I had purchased from an well known builder. First contest with it and a K&B 65, it failed the pull test rather spectacularly . Unit pulled apart and ripped the wing open to the tip. Looking at the remains showed the internal wires to be very well consumed by whatever solder fluid he used.

Did a new wing and made my own unit and later ran a 201 with it. Obviously this was before the current fuel rules.

Having a nice new build fail the pull test because of an old unit will be depressing.

Think about it.

Luke

I think that reasoning is very sound.

Neddie Morris made some of the units that I currently have and I have made a few myself. If I were going to get back in to flying speed, I left a 201 MPH jet run unfinished when the model "landed" on the back up flight. I have an idea which needs investigating on that avenue which involves a different control unit minor design change. The problem I have is time and I'm not sure I could keep up with up these days.
Life is good
AMA 1488

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