Howard,
I would talk to Bill Hughes. I suspect he was familiar with the tooling/technique that Glenn used.
I have used a few Lee gear and seem to recall the same edge that is typical of sheared parts: the top edge is rolled and the bottom fractured, just like any die or shear operation.
While there are definitely shops out there that shear Ti, one of our racing guys had some specialty parts cut using water jet. If you have a shop around that will work with you on just a few pieces and already have your parts drawn in CAD, that might be an option.
For one-off stuff, I was surprised to find that an ordinary hacksaw works well as long as you can cut it straight. A new blade that has not been "muscled" to follow the line (and thereby affecting the tooth set on one side) is helpful. Drilling is no problem in a drill press using a fresh drill and plenty of pressure on the quill. Babying things makes working Ti a lot worse, not better. Be sure to clamp the work--do not try to hand-hold it!
You don't want to make sloppy, oversize cuts because the normal stuff in the shop isn't going to clean up the edge easily. A regular grinding wheel is not really up to it. A sanding disk is better, but....
Good luck with your project. If you already knew all this stuff, thanks for your patience.....
Dave