I converted and flew the TF Gold Edition P-40 for quite a few years. It did not do well on Outline static scores at the Nats; as indeed it should not have. Based on the ads I have seen and some internet comments related to accuracy as posted by R/C guys, the Corsair and Mustang would suffer also. Have not really looked at the P-47. The P-40 was easy to convert and I achieved very high flight scores with it. It had retracts and flaps.

I have also converted the Skyshark Val. It is much more accurate than the P-40 was. It's nose had been extended and the airfoil at the tip of the wing is way too thick. It flies better than the P-40. I have their Me-109E and Avenger stashed away. The outlines look good at first glance,  but I have not extensively compared their outlines to 3-views. I wrote an article for Model Aviation on how to convert the Val to C/L. I got paid for it, but it was never published.

If you want a really accurate model, let me suggest building from Brian Taylor plans. I converted his Typhoon. Outline accuracy is outstanding and it flies very well. The BT models are a bit bigger than the TF or Skyshark, but not unreasonable.

Chuck

Are these R/C kits true "Scale" or they more of a stand off scale? Are they overly difficult to convert to C/L and still maintain a decent weight?

Doug,

All the kits available today offer scale differences or better said, the lack of scale differences.

If you want the model to really stunt, you'll have to alter the airfoil and wing incidence. If you're keeping it scale, you could overlook these changes.

Also, sans servos, batteries, RX, etc., which will keep some weight off.

The only true scale Corsair kit I know of is the old NLA Royal Corsair. It's really close. These kits sell for over 300.00.

The GM Plastics kit from the late 80's is another kit that's really close. Only 25 made were made and I'm lucky to have one. The plans are more like mechanical drawings. 73" in span!

The R/C ARF's are your best bet. I chose the H9 Corsair for my CL "Build" here on SH. Again, a model that doesn't have true scale outlines.

I don't know what size your interested in, but H9 offers a .50 engine size Corsair. I believe 55" in span and just about the cost of a larger ARF Corsair.

I've had my H9 Corsair for years to be bashed into the #57.

I'm building the F2G-1 #57 Reno Racer, so I'm expecting to do many changes which have to take place or I won't have anything that resembles the F2G-1 #57 Corsair.

Check out the Corsair Build Thread I'm doing.

Charles

I had a R/C Royal Corsair Jr. kit way back in the early 80's. Never finished it due to constant moves and job changes. I noticed the canopy on the T/F Corsair GE is too big. I've been following your build!For a future build I was thinking a T/F P-51C or P-40.

Douglas,

Be nice if you still have and can finish that Royal Corsair. Kinda small?

I actually sold mine by mistake. I had both, the Pica and the Royal. I confused the two and sold the Royal. After that was gone, keeping the Pica meant little to me. This was years ago, I'm over it, kinda. 

T/F P-51D, I thought? That's the kit or are you referring to an ARF? I don't know if T/F has a P-40 kit?

You can pull it off with an ARF. Even if you make few changes.

Remember, still won't be scale. Which is OK.

Charles

The Royal Corsair is no more. It's been gone for 25 yrs.
I'm really leaning toward a T/F P-40 GE Kit No ARF's - Booo, Hiss. I'm seriously contemplating buying an Opache Projector. They're cheap enough on eBay due to obsolesence. It would be neat to overlay a 3-view on the wall mounted plans to see how far it's off scale.

Bill,

Thing is, those thin chrisp lines on paper get thick and blurry farther back ya go.

Hey Bill! Ever have the thing "creep" on you?

Didn't you hate that.

Charles

I have converted lots of RC kits over to CL scale, the largest being the 1/4 scale Sig Morrisey Bravo, the smallest being the great planes combat F4U corsair. I built the Great Planes RV-4 kit (57" span) and the elevator was completely wrong, I had to fix the outline on the elevator to match the real 3-view.

When I convert a model to CL scale I basically build the model as if it's going to be RC then install a bellcrank and leadout guide since I use electronic controls. I also always check the outlines of the model before I build the model so that it matches the 3-view I show the judges when it comes time for a contest.

I have found that most RC scale kits are designed as sport scale or standoff scale and rarely lack any real detail. Balsa USA has kits with the details, Brian Taylor has the best military plans that I have found.

Also check out this source for plans, his outlines are good, just lacks details that need to be added for competition. Also Tony's models are a great size for CL scale. What I find interesting is that on the B-17 notice that he does not recommend glow engines, only electric power.

http://www.tonynijhuisdesigns.co.uk/

Brian Taylor plans are accurate and worth building. I have never had a problem with the weight of the models, but I am not trying to perform aerobatics with the model so from a CL stunt point of view my CL scale models are heavy, but from a CL scale point of view they penetrant the wind and fly the CL scale pattern with no problem.

Fred C.

I have a redbox Topflite Bearcat that I got off the bay for $20 a while back and was contemplating making it control line as well.  it was missing the cowl, but I see the Corsair cowl is the same so I picked one up recently.  Should be good to go.

Would an ST60 be enough for the Bearcat, or Corsair for that matter?

One thing I wondered was are these designed a little heavy as RC planes?  Seems like a lot of wood with covered flaps etc.  Is it fair to say one should make every attempt to lighten a stock Topflite kit up when going CL with it?  Maybe that goes with out saying....

What size motor does the RC kit recommend? If the kit is a 40 size kit the 60 will have enough power.  Personally I would recommend a 4C for scale.  The problem with scale is that it requires a lot of idle time. 2C engines have been known to load up and quit.  Also my ST90 had a throttle dead spot.  Somewheres around 1/2 throttle it would simply load up and quit.  I tried many hi/low needle combations and never could get it to work.  I have an OS max 55 that has the same problem.  RC folks don't care because they fly at 80% to 100% throttle or 10% to land.  4C engines don't seem to have the problem.  I believe this is true because you get higher air flow through the carburetor during the intake stroke of the piston.  At the most recent contests that I have attended it seemed that the top contenders all use 4C or electric power.


 

I first flew my Gold Edition P-40 as an R/C model. I needed a Super Tigre 90 to get it over the trees around the field. When I converted it to C/L I dropped back to a .75. And probably never went to full throttle again. I fly my C/L scale models much slower than their R/C cousins and favor large diameter/low pitch props. On the ST 61 in my Val I use a 13-5. Works great. Your 60 should be plenty of power.
Chuck

Doug,
I don't have the model anymore; it is on display at the local Jr. High (they are the "Aviators"). So I am going by memory. I'm sure I put the bellcrank in the fuselage and ran the leadouts over the wing to a removeable (and adjustable) guide on the wingtip. The wing remained removeable. That is how my Typhoon and Val are arranged. An attempt to get the bellcrank at the vertical CG. I surely removed the elevator and aileron servos. I don't recall any CG issues. I balance my C/L models at the same spot as they would be for R/C; I don't make them nose heavy as some guys recommend. Functions included retracts, flaps, and throttle.

I suggest you reinforce the area between the bellcrank mount and where you will hold the model for pull tests.

Chuck