Author Topic: Jeannin Stahltaube (Read 5216 times)

Clancy Arnold · « **on:** August 25, 2010, 07:27:41 AM »

Bet most of you have trouble pronouncing the Subject above! Taube is German for Dove and Stahl is German for Steel so it is a Steel framed Dove. The Taube was designed in Austria by Igo Etrich in 1909. The first Taube flew in February of 1910 and then a contract was made with Rumpler of Germany to produce the Taube in quantities for the German Air Force. Due to a problem with the contract Rumbler stopped paying Etrich royalties and when Etrich did not enforce the contract the design of the Taube became public property. At least 14 different companies built versions of the Taube. One of the companies was Jeannin which brings us to the plane I am modeling.

It has been suggested I share the build of my 2011 CL Scale model here on Stunt Hangar.

This summer at the Brodak Fly-In I bought a scale kit from Jack Sheeks. My wife thought it would be an interesting plane to model. It is a Nick Zeroli kit of the early WW1 German Taube. The kit was produced in 1984. The kit is for RC and is stand way off scale. The first thing was to go on the internet and find a Taube that is similar to the kit. The original Taube used a cross wind landing gear arrangement that is very hard to reproduce and the kit has a conventional land gear arrangement. In 1914 Jeannin came up with a redesign of the Taube using conventional landing gear and steel in place of wood for the frame. See the first picture which is the Three Views of the Rumpler Taube and includes a drawing of the control system. Order a reel of cable for guy wires!

I found by using a Google search on "Taube airplane" several photos of different models or reproductions of Taube. One plane fit my needs as it has conventional landing gear and is much simpler that the original design. The Jeannin Taube by using the steel frame eliminated the wood trussing from under the wing. They also determined that the lower set of control rigging for the wing warping was not required as the slip stream alone would keep the reflexed wing tips down.

As designed by Nick Zeroli the kit used a straight wing with rudder and elevator for flight controls using conventional push rods for controlling the airplane.

I wanted to have a form of wing warping to be able to do a Wing Wave as an option. I first built the wing per the kit , then I cut a section loose on each tip to be hinged to serve as ailerons. See second picture of wing. That is my KIA Rondo 7 passenger van behind thewing for size comparison. The wing had to be made to come apart for transporting to contests. Since the I have emailed some Friends and it was suggested that I go the full Monty and make it just like the original.

If you look at the three views there is a strange curved line across the wings and the ribs are dotted (hidden) in front of the line and solid behind the line. That is because thewing is covered top and bottom back to the line and is only one layer thick behind theline . The solid lines represent the rods that are in pockets of the fabric covering. See picture of the tail.

Have to quit for now,
Clancy

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #1 on:** August 25, 2010, 10:13:49 AM »

How do all those wires manage to fly in the wind? It seems like you'd have to fly unrealistically fast to keep any tension in a stiff wind. Otherwise it'd be like trying to fly a sieve.

Cool subject, though. I got a book on the history of the Cessna, looking for nice pictures of the CR-3 and the C-37, and what ended up really striking my fancy was Clyde Cessna's 1913 airplane, which is a very "Bleriot like" monoplane with wing warping and flying wires and all that stuff.

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #2 on:** August 25, 2010, 01:52:07 PM »

Tim
The Three Views and pictures below should clear up about the wings warping. The actual aircraft used Cane Fishing poles for the rods in the wing trailing edge and in the tail.

In my first post I attached one wrong picture. I posted a picture of my model in stead of the picture of the tail feathers on the actual airplane. In the picture I posted of my model I had added blue masking tape to the tips of the wires to make it easier to see the shape of the wing and tail.

The Taube kit is 88 inch Wing Span and 1500 Square Inches (10.4 Sq. Ft.) Wing area. As shown but with the OS 91 Surpass 4 stroke engine added it weighed 5 lb 8.2 oz.

Clancy

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #3 on:** August 25, 2010, 06:56:30 PM »

To bring everyone up to date on the build of my Jeannin Stahltaube here are some pictures I have taken of the build over the last three weeks.
Picture Taube kit - First wing started on 6 August, 2010.
Picture 004 - The first wing framed up.
Picture 007 - (repeated) has the complete wing laying by my van. A Red yard stick is shown for size. The two aluminum 1/16 x 1 x 12 bars are the dihedral braces.
Picture 108 - Start of body. The build board is 12 x 48 inches which is about 4 inches short.
Picture 009 - Wing assembled and setting on the body.
Picture 011 - Looks like a big Bird.
Picture 111 - Dihedral brace design.
Picture 112 - First fitting of the OS 91 Surpass 4 stroke engine.
Picture 115 - a bunch of Itty Bitty Parts. The flat pieces have .040 holes spaced every .100 inch. The S hooks are 5/16 inch long.
Picture 016 - First wing modified for scale wing rods.
Picture 018 - (Repeated) Plane assembled to show total outline. The blue tape on the wires help you to see the shape of the wing and tail.

Hope you enjoy this build as much as I am.
Clancy

JamieHolford · « **Reply #4 on:** August 27, 2010, 01:17:08 PM »

This will be a beautiful bird! You just made me smile seeing a WW1 legend being built!

In the end you must get flight video!!!

John Rist · « **Reply #5 on:** August 28, 2010, 09:27:08 AM »

Just wondering

Would a message drop be a good maneuver for a WW-I style airplane such as a Eindecker or the Jennie Stahltaube? I have to believe it happened that a message was sent to the front line in this manner. I would guess a leather bag with a streamer.

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #6 on:** August 30, 2010, 02:41:50 PM »

Today I was studying some of the pictures I have copied from the Internet trying to solve one question when I found 4 more cables! Who slipped those in there?

After finding the extra cables in the picture I saw that they were also on the Three View drawing, so I will have to include them.

That makes the total 88 cables that I have to make up!
Clancy

John Witt · « **Reply #7 on:** August 30, 2010, 09:43:40 PM »

And that's not counting the ones you have to do twice because they came out too short or long! Frankly I thought the rigging was fun. It tied the airplane together and made it into a complete structure.

You are making very rapid progress Clancy.

John WItt

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #8 on:** August 31, 2010, 05:59:49 AM »

John
I am sure you went through the same planning process that I am doing.

How will I assemble this thing at the field?
Step 1. Place body on table.
Step 2. Assemble wing halves together and secure.
Step 3. place wing on body. Connect cables from wing to engine. Plug in the U/Tronics input cable from the wing to the Decoder module. Secure wing to body.
Step 4. Turn over and secure lower wing cables to bottom strut.
Step 5. Turn back over and secure top wing cables to top strut.
Step 6. Connect wing warp cables to leadouts.
Step 7. Install flexible tail section in place. Connect the up elevator cable to the upper bridle.
Step 8. Stand on nose and connect the down elevator cable to the lower bridle.
Step 9. secure the tail spreader bridles to the ends of the spacers both sides.

This is a First Approximation of what it will require to get the Jeannin Stahltaube ready for static judging or flight.

Clancy

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #9 on:** August 31, 2010, 03:47:42 PM »

I built the Rudder Post today. It required 12 pieces of brass and 3 delron pulley wheels. See picture below. I made 5 of the delron Pulley Wheels as I will need two on the wing leading edge where the Wing Warp cable wraps around the wing leading edge. They have to be angled about 45 degrees from vertical to function properly. On my model they will be about 40 inches long.
Clancy

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #10 on:** August 31, 2010, 07:33:26 PM »

I was asked on another forum to explain how the three piece bellcrank works.
I have attached 4 pictures that should show how it functions.
Picture 023. Bellcrank in the DOWN position. The Down lines are pulled and the Up lines are relaxed.
Picture 24. Trailing edge of Elevator is Down. Note: I have not made the spreaders that will connect to all of the rods in the Elevator so at present only the center of the Elevator trailing edge is moving.
Picture 25. Bellcrank in the Up position. The Down lines are relaxed and the Up lines are pulled.
Picture 26. Trailing edge of Elevator is Up. The trailing edge of the Elevator, at the center where the cables are taped on, moved over 3 inches during this photo session.

The reason for the two long drag links on the bellcrank is to allow clearance for the Leadouts to clear the control cables.
Clancy

Glenn (Gravitywell) Reach · « **Reply #11 on:** August 31, 2010, 10:06:13 PM »

Gotcha...thanks Clancey!

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #12 on:** September 01, 2010, 03:01:33 PM »

John Witt in his write up on building his Jenny he said to make parts or subassemblies so that you can see progress along the way. Great Idea John.

I spent some time today making subassemblies and then hooking them up to see if they work. They do! The bridle will move the trailing edge of the horizontal Flexible tail 3 inches from full down to full up. Just think, a stunter with that much control throw would turn a great corner. Wonder how the Steel Dove would do a loop?

Picture 127. Bridles made for wing and tail warping. I used 1/4 inch lengths of 1/16 aluminum tubing and crimped with a set of pliers that have a 1/8 inch flat on the ends.
Picture 128. Top tail bridle temp. in place. The heavy lines are the .062 wires in the tail and the light lines are the .015 control wires. That is about 40 feet of .015 flying lines recycled.
Picture 129. With top and bottom bridles temp. installed. It is getting busy back there!
Clancy

john e. holliday · « **Reply #13 on:** September 02, 2010, 09:41:14 AM »

You guys are gluttons for punishment.

It is looking great tho.

Dennis Holler · « **Reply #14 on:** September 02, 2010, 07:57:15 PM »

Clancy Hopefully I can see that Fine looking plane next Tuesday

I'm planning on coming down for some flying

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #15 on:** September 03, 2010, 07:33:23 PM »

Dennis
Come on down! LOL

Here are 4 more pictures of my model in progress. I have also added a close up of the plane modeled to show the fittings on the wing for the guy cables to connect to and the pieces I have made to replicate those fittings.

Picture 133. Wing warp with no pull on the Wing Warp cable.
Picture 134. Wing warp cable pulled raising the wing tip trailing edge over 2 inches.
Picture 137. Wing guy fittings and one of the Wing Warp A frames that is hinged at the bottom.
Picture 813-1. Close up of the prototype wing guy wire fittings. There are 16 of these on the wings and 2 on the engine cowling.
Picture 138. Overall view with most of the functional cables temporarily connected with tape.
Clancy

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #16 on:** September 09, 2010, 07:11:34 PM »

Someone commented that the early planes had a yaw stability problem. No wonder, This is a 1500 Square inch Wing Area model.

Compare the Horizontal stabilizer (120 Sq. In.) and elevator (195 Sq. In.) to the vertical stabilizers and rudders. With 30 square inches of vertical stabilizer and even less rudder yaw control is almost non existant.

Picture of tail feathers ready to cover.

Now you can see why the rudders are shaped the way they are.
Clancy

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #17 on:** September 10, 2010, 10:20:18 AM »

Here is a cutaway view of the plane I am modeling. This should explain some of thethings I have tried to describe.
Clancy

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #18 on:** September 11, 2010, 07:33:40 PM »

Have been busy making more subassemblies. Have almost ran out of the first set of .015 stranded flying lines to rig the model. I have made the wing tip bracing that is used to hold the flexable wing tips spread out and the spreaders for the flexible tail section.

As john Witt said, "plus the ones you make too short or too long." Well, Two extras because they were too short and one because it looked wrong. It was one of my first ones so I have an excuse. LOL

Picture 149. Left wing tip spreader.
Picture 150. Another view of the left wing tip.
Picture 151. The tail spreader on the right side of the tail. Note that it is guyed to the rudder post at the base and tip.
Picture 153. A different view of the tail spreaders.
Picture 154. I have made the flexible section of the tail removeable. To remove the tail I remove the screw and unhook the guy wire going to the front tip of the horizontal stabilizer. The brass tube and the vertical guys stay attached on the stab.
Picture 055. This picture is for Bill Gruby.
Clancy

Dennis Holler · « **Reply #19 on:** September 11, 2010, 09:07:56 PM »

Clancy, you are The MAN... That is some serious building!! Can't wait to see it next week!

Michael Boucher · « **Reply #20 on:** September 12, 2010, 09:10:04 AM »

Clancy, that is one beautiful model. I like your out of the box method of construction as well. Keep up the wonderful work. You showed me another use for sockets when I retire.

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #21 on:** September 12, 2010, 05:46:40 PM »

Mike
The sockets are part of a Sears Craftsman set I bought in 1958 for $149.95. It included the gray 3 drawer cabinet,and a complete set of 1/2 and 3/8 drive socket wrenches both standard and deep. Two sockets have been lost since 1958. It also came with a set of about 20 hand wrenches. To complete the set I bought a 150 lb torque wrench for $29.95 at the same time.

Most of the deep sockets have never gotten grease on them and the glue doesnot stick to the chrome finish.

I just read the paper used in the kit to wrap the preformed landing gear, New York Times Classified section April 1, 1984.

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #22 on:** September 13, 2010, 06:51:38 PM »

I built the two "A" frame towers that support the wing guy braces today. I made the legs out of 1/4 and 1/8 inch brass tubing. I first squeezed the tubing from round to oval using my big bench vice. I would advance the tube through the vice about 2 inches at a time and squeeze the tube some more. With a lot of patience and arm work I was able to change the 1/4 inch tube to an oval of .190 x .310 inch and the 1/8 inch tube to an oval of .100 x .165.

Picture 156. I needed one more clamp to do this right. I soldered together the one in the picture and was very happy with the way it turned out. Set up to do the second one for the bottom of the plane and messed up the first seven attempts. The eighth try looked acceptable. There is a notch in the piece of balsa being held vertical by the small red "C" Clamp to allow access for the 100 watt soldering iron to apply heat to the .030 brass top plate when soldering.
Picture 157. Both towers in position on the model.
Clancy

John Witt · « **Reply #23 on:** September 13, 2010, 09:08:34 PM »

Wow, Clancy. Where's the trough where the bowling ball rolls down and trips the mouse trap which fires a shotgun that breaks a ballon and....

All seriousness aside, it's taking shape very nicely. Isn't amazing how you spend all this work setting something up and it seems as though there is no progress and then all of a sudden, almost with a bang, another chunk of the plane takes form.

Great reading your posts and seeing the pictures.

John Witt

john e. holliday · « **Reply #24 on:** September 14, 2010, 09:15:06 AM »

I am going to have nightmares after seeing the jig of the A Frames. How dare you even think of covering this once it is done.

LL~You have way more patience than I do.

Dennis Holler · « **Reply #25 on:** September 14, 2010, 08:39:09 PM »

Clancy brought it to the club meeting today... Did he mention its BIG..I mean real BIG

. That control system is incredible up close, its going to be a super fine ship! I can't wait

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #26 on:** September 15, 2010, 07:14:02 PM »

You asked for it!

The first is a video of a Balsa USA 40 model Taube flying. It has all conventional controls.

The second video is of a Full size replica of a 1913 Etrich Taube. It has the wood frame and the wood trusses under the wing but they also did not use the
lower cables on the wing tips.

Once you get to YouTube there are several videos of interest.

Enjoy,
Clancy

John Rist · « **Reply #27 on:** September 15, 2010, 07:53:37 PM »

Nice veido - but can it fly in a 60' - 70' circle?

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #28 on:** September 17, 2010, 05:11:13 PM »

John
Only if I wear my Lead Sneakers and Scuba Diving Belt. LOL

Spent most of today working on details. I learned that the proper name for the towers that anchor the wing guy cables are called King Posts.
Picture 158. The two King Posts with their guy cables attached. The Bottom King Post is on the left and the Top King Post is on the right.
Picture 059. A closeup of the Bottom King Post showing how the cables are attached.
Picture 060. The cables removed from the King Post. They have to come apart as the wing is transported in two sections.
Clancy

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #29 on:** September 18, 2010, 11:14:52 AM »

The elevator is ready to cover!

In the pictures you will see that I had to make three types of fittings for the cables to connect to. 4 single point fittings for the side spreader cables, 6 double point fittings for the top and bottom bridles to connect to and 2 triple point fittings for the outer most rods for the top bridle, bottom bridle and the rear most spreader cable. They are made from .010 brass, then formed and soldered together as required. When installed with glue the opening is squeezed shut and held until the glue cured.
The single point fitting was just a single piece formed around a rod. The double point fittings are two pieces formed and one end soldered together. The triple point fittings are made in three parts soldered together at the top and bottom but not soldered at the side to allow it to be slid on over the rod.

Glenn (Gravitywell) Reach · « **Reply #30 on:** September 18, 2010, 12:20:33 PM »

Well Clancy....I can tell one thing about you by viewing these pics....your a masocistic, gluton for punishment!

Beautiful build so far, really looking forward to seeing how you cover it.

Will Hinton · « **Reply #31 on:** September 18, 2010, 01:42:44 PM »

I think he should cover it with clear just so we can admire the workmanship!!!!!!!!!!!!

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #32 on:** September 20, 2010, 05:33:48 PM »

Glenn, Will
With my building skills I should paint all of my models with Flat (Optical) Black paint!

I made the Wing Warp (aileron) control cable pulley assemblies today.
Picture 164. This shows how the cable runs from the top of the wing around the pulley then back under the wing and down to the bottom of the body near the pilot's feet.
Picture 165. This shows the cable from the pulley to the "A" frame tower.
Picture 066. My wife asked if I was building a BIG plane or a BIG Butterfly? These are the wings hanging on the wall leading edge to leading edge.
Clancy

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #33 on:** September 24, 2010, 03:26:43 PM »

I started covering the Stahltaube today.

I am still waiting for the rest of the carbon fiber rods to arrive but I can still work on the body and tail.

If you go back to Reply #2 above, I had shown a picture of the top side of the tail of the plane I am modeling. The white is only on the top side of the tail and wings. Here are two pictures of the tail for my model. Close?
Clancy

john e. holliday · « **Reply #34 on:** September 26, 2010, 08:15:08 AM »

Down grade, not enough wrinkles in the fabric.

It is still amazing the stuff you scale guys go thru.

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #35 on:** September 27, 2010, 04:30:26 PM »

A picture for John Witt.

Test fitting of the wing guy wires. 4 cables on top of each wing, 4 cables on the bottom of each wing and 1 cable from the engine to the outer front guy fitting under the wing on each side for a total of 18 guy cables.

I am still waiting for the rest of the Carbon rods to arrive.

Clancy

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #36 on:** October 01, 2010, 07:35:04 PM »

The mystery of the Carbon rods has been solved. Bill Gruby shipped them to my old address. This should not have been a problem but we are talking about the Goverrnmint Poste Orrfice.

My new house is 200 feet from my old house and even worse the mail boxes for the two houses are 39 inches apart. The Post Office had intercepted the delivery an will either readdress the package or mark it "Return to Sender." Therefore I will work on the rest of the model for now.

Here is a picture of the body after it was covered today. Yesterday the wheels arrived. In the picture below the model one of the wheels is visible. On the model they look almost too small even at 5 inches. The Linen color stops at the rear of the front wing root cutouts and the nose will be aluminum color.
Clancy

Dennis Holler · « **Reply #37 on:** October 01, 2010, 09:01:52 PM »

Clancy, That big job just keeps agoin!! Can't wait to see it on Tuesday!.... If only I could get 1/10 done that you do I'd be so happy!!!!

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #38 on:** October 03, 2010, 05:09:48 PM »

It is getting close. The three pictures show the Jeannin Stahltaube as it sets now.
All that remains is install the fuel tank (after I buy a 12 ounce one) and the Carbon Fiber rods on the wing tips. Then cover the wings and nose. It is hard to believe that an 88 inch Wing Span model with 1500 square inch Wing Area currently weights in at only 7 lb 9.6 oz.

I have a 2 ounce wheel weight glued in the right wing tip. I hope that is enough.

For size reference that is a Red Yard Stick on top of the wing, the wheels are 5 inch and that is a 15 x 6 prop on the OS 91 Four stroke engine.
Clancy

john e. holliday · « **Reply #39 on:** October 04, 2010, 08:40:54 AM »

Sounds like a lot of wing tp weight. That is going to be one big bird.

John Rist · « **Reply #40 on:** October 04, 2010, 01:46:37 PM »

Quote from: Clancy Arnold on October 03, 2010, 05:09:48 PM

It is getting close. The three pictures show the Jeannin Stahltaube as it sets now.
All that remains is install the fuel tank (after I buy a 12 ounce one) and the Carbon Fiber rods on the wing tips. Then cover the wings and nose. It is hard to believe that an 88 inch Wing Span model with 1500 square inch Wing Area currently weights in at only 7 lb 9.6 oz.

I have a 2 ounce wheel weight glued in the right wing tip. I hope that is enough.

For size reference that is a Red Yard Stick on top of the wing, the wheels are 5 inch and that is a 15 x 6 prop on the OS 91 Four stroke engine.
Clancy

This is a control line isn't it? This is in the same Weight category as my Extra 300S. What size 4C is that up front? Heavy airplanes require large diameter lines. You also have lots of drag from the flying wires. Remember it takes huge power to get this big of a WW I model to fly on 60 to 70' lines.

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #41 on:** October 04, 2010, 04:35:43 PM »

Doc
The flying lines I will use are a set of .027 insulated lines I have in stock (.038 OD) that I will shorten to the minimum 65 feet handle to CL.

John
That is an OS 91 Surpass II with pump. That should give me excess power but even your Jenny doesnot have as many THINGS hanging out in the wind as this model has. LOL

I have run "Line III" on the model and it recommends the lines rake 1.2 inch behind the CG. That is where I will initially set the line guide at. I may have to find a taller garage to hang the model in to do the final adjustment of the CG and leadout guide using the Jack Sheeks method.
Clancy

John Rist · « **Reply #42 on:** October 04, 2010, 04:47:12 PM »

Sounds like you have it under controll. Hope to see it fly some day.

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #43 on:** October 16, 2010, 05:49:07 PM »

John
It is getting closer, but! The carbon fiber rods have been lost in the US Mail.

I had lost the bid for some used Williams Bros. Vintage 5 inch wheels in the last seconds on EBay three weeks ago at $24.00 + shipping, about $4.00 less than new.
Last Friday I won a NEW st for a bid of $5.95 + $4.90 shipping. Life is Grand.

I ordered a fuel tank late on the 9th and it arrived yesterday. It is installed, see pictures. After installing the tank and verifying I can get my hand in the tank compartment to start the 6x32 self locking nuts I closed up the bottom of the body.

The screws provided with the motor mounts were undersize. While mounting the engine for the first time I stripped two of the blind nuts. The screws were a sloppy fit in the nuts. I went into my coffee can of # 6 hardware and found 4 Allen head hardened screws. They fit the blind nuts properly but because of the possible damage done to the blind nuts originally, I will put self locking nuts on the end of the screws behind the blind nuts. See pictures.

Picture 178. Front of the Jeannin Stahltaube with all of the cables in place. Well almost all.
Picture 179. Tail with all of it's cables. Well, almost all!
Picture 180. Tail at a different angle to show more cables.
Picture 181. Fuel tank compartment. You can see one of the blind nuts.
Picture 182. Nose block smoothed in. The three lines are Vent, Engine and Fill.
Clancy

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #44 on:** October 17, 2010, 06:04:21 PM »

Got a call from Bill Gruby and the Carbon Fiber rods arrived back in Bristol CT Saturday. G-Man is going to re ship the Monday.

I Have covered the nose with aluminum. It is aluminum fair conditioning tape 2 inches wide. I will look at it for few days to decide if it is acceptable or I will strip the tape and just spray paint it aluminum color. See pictures. What do you think?
Clancy

Picture 183 Side view.
Picture 184 Front view.
Picture 185 Front view with nose plug removed and laying on top of body. You can see the engine mounting holes.

John Rist · « **Reply #45 on:** October 17, 2010, 09:45:09 PM »

lancy,
What you need is flight metal. I used it on my Eindecker and it works great. Looks real and is easy to apply.

http://www.scaleaero.com/flitemetal.htm

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #46 on:** October 19, 2010, 01:58:25 PM »

John
I have looked at the aluminum in the daylight and it was BAD!

Notice I said WAS. It took twice as long to strip off as to put it on.

Now to prime and paint the nose then add the squiggly white lines.

"Squiggly white lines?" See picture attached.

Will Hinton · « **Reply #47 on:** October 19, 2010, 04:01:16 PM »

Man Clancy, you are COOKIN"!! That thing's gonna be done before the "building season" is here, then whatcha gonna build?

Steven Kientz · « **Reply #48 on:** October 22, 2010, 03:04:54 PM »

Beautiful work Clancy! Not only have you built the 2 largest C/L planes I've ever seen, also the most complex. I still remember your F-14 hanging in your garage, this plane will make a good hangar mate for it!

Steve

Clancy Arnold · « **Reply #49 on:** October 22, 2010, 04:39:37 PM »

Steve
I hope you are wrong, I hope this one flies better. LOL

The model met the chain saw today! Well close, I cut 3 1/4 inches off the nose and moved the firewall back the same amount. I noticed some thing was wrong when trying to determine where the fabric ended and the aluminum was to start on the body.

What do we tell all new scale builders, "Get your documentation first."

What did I do, I built the body per the kit! Now it turns out the designer had extended the nose to make it easier to balance the model and to improve the flying performance. Compare this picture to the earlier one with the aluminum on the nose and the pictures of the real airplane. This is closer to scale.