I have one that I could probably part with.
The downside would be the cost of shipping from Canada.
PM me and I’ll see if I can help out.

PM sent

I posted on facebook about my maiden flights on my new Pathfinder LE from RSM. While going through the early flights getting a feel for it, I felt like it turned much better inside than outside. Several guys on facebook suggested shortening the elevator pushrod. This makes some sense to me and is on my list of things to consider. I wanted to analyze things further before cutting into my plane. I didn’t have room for a hatch back at the elevator so I just covered the area with a silkspan patch. I don’t want to cut it out until I’m sure that’s what it needs as I have to go through the refinishing process afterwards.
I set my controls up best I could during the build. I locked the bellcrank to neutral and played with pushrod lengths to get throws as equal as possible. After the maiden, I went back and took some basic measurements again. When I pull the up line, I get 1-5/8” up elevator travel and 1” of down flap. Conversely pulling the down line such that I get the same 1-5/8” down elevator travel I also get 1” of flap up travel.  The 1-5/8” of up travel is max up throw. However I do get a bit more down elevator throw at the mechanical limit. I get 1-7/8” of down with about 1-1/4” of up flap. To me, this seems like it should turn outside better but it definitely doesn’t feel like it to me. It feels like it’s mushing through outside sharp corners whereas it really pops through insides.
Can someone help me understand what may be happening?

    I am not sure, but try a different test - presumably, the leadouts are even when the elevator is neutral. Measure the deflection when you move the leadouts 1" in either direction. You want it to be the same.

   I would note that the "max" movement probably doesn't mean anything, you will not be able to get anywhere near the maximum movement.

   You also don't mention whether or not you have sealed the hinge lines. If not, seal the hinge lines and start over.

     Brett

p.s. Also, I am not sure about the wing area on this airplane, but 1.625:1 elevator/flap ratio is A LOT of difference. For that to be right,  it would need to extremely low wing loading. Too heavy with that ratio and it will for sure "mush" or stall with too much deflection.  That means even a slight asymmetry in the wing LE shape miught cause it to stall differently inside and out, leading to your apparent turn difference.

    I am not familiar with the airplane at all, but I would suggest starting with 1:1, lacking any other information.   As mentioned above, I think you really need to make easy adjustments possible, if it means cutting something or building fairings to gain clearance, I think you need to do that.

https://toflyandfight.com/p-51c-profile-berlin-express/



will no doubt be a few plastic scale build threads . I.P.M.S. & suchlike . plus 3 views .



http://www.warbirdinformationexchange.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=55545
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 This goes for almost all WWII and prior U.S. insignia placements, later swept wing aircraft will vary. Proper placement can make or break the appearance of your model, it's worth giving time and attention to these details.

 For the wing insignias, simply use an "imaginary" straight line wingtip to wingtip as a primary alignment reference point, that line being 90 degrees in relation to the fuselage center line. Determine where you want the insignia placed front to rear, (ignoring the angles of the L/E and T/E) and then align the insignia exactly parallel to the imaginary wingtip to wingtip reference line. Top of left wing and bottom of right wing is correct for placement. ALWAYS have the top point of the star pointing to the FRONT of the aircraft, don't be that guy that puts them upside down! 

 For the fuselage insignias, use another "imaginary" straight line down the design center line of the fuselage. This is usually the same as the engine thrust line. Determine the desired front/rear/height location for the insignia and place it exactly parallel to the determined imaginary centerline. ALWAYS have the top point of the star pointing to the TOP of the fuselage. And remember, don't be that guy! 

 Google three view searches can be your friend for placement referencing on specific aircraft designs. 

I have put on decals square to edges, measure with rulers ect. and they don't look right. It an optical illusion or something. What I found that works is to forget all that and put the decal on and position it so it looks good by just using your eyes. Works every time.

MM