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1
Open Forum / Re: Help with positioning WWII wing insignia
« Last post by Air Ministry . on Today at 07:49:30 PM »

purloined : https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/75148-wwii-invasion-stripes-p-51-mustang/


I think your right in having wing stripes TOP & BOTTOM , as the real one does to .



in this picture , at least .  https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/hyperscale/looking-for-info-on-berlin-express-t533350.html

Some of the poms had a beer ( or two ) and used any paint they could find. and brushes )as in a BROOM , overnight , it was ! . So stripes ' did vary '
Date of photo would depend . 6th June till a few weeks ?? after ( top ) some woulda used ' water soluble paint ' ( distemper ) so wether later washed off , or overpainted  , is niether here nor their .
If you  were THAT pedantic , youd study the Units History , 55 F G & 363 F S specifically , to try'n date variations ( in stripes ) & dates . But if it were airborne at the time , it coulda varied from that ! .



nutha intrestin one : https://www.aircorpsaviation.com/p-51b-shillelagh-wings-of-the-north-museum-project-fall-2021-update/
2
Open Forum / Re: Help with positioning WWII wing insignia
« Last post by Air Ministry . on Today at 07:43:31 PM »
Rightio !  VD~

A piece of STRING !

with the muddle inverted , hold a stick upright ( Or the model vertial on a wall , hold a stick flat ! )

First you get a book , at the tip , and put a mark say 2 inch IN . AND you do it on the leading edge , and say 2 in back . Both Sides . Left and right , rather'n top'n bottom . For Now .  ;D

A piece of string between the two , has ta bee poipendicula .

OR , if you had BOOKS , and some were the same , youd nail it to the wall , jack it vertical in the fuselage , drop THE SAME books under each wing/tip . So the WINGS square too .
Then you get a packet off weetbix , new , on end . Put it adjacent . A thin book on that , going into against the wing , And get a LINE off That ! .

Or you could use string & shadows , if youve got the lightbulb steady .

DONT DROP IT .

o.k. , well , you did ask .  S?P Blocks of wood , long straight things , and miscelaeneous modsular ' things ' ( offcuts - plasticx containers etc ) get equidistant referances . Have a beer and settle down .  ;D

Id put it a tiny bit ( 1/4 inch ) further IN . Have end of bar to tip say near twice end of bar to stripe . As with the curvy tip , it goes in and out , depending on the angle its viewed . Try that & try equal . Suit yerself .

 H^^
3
Open Forum / Re: Balsa Safari
« Last post by Motorman on Today at 06:35:48 PM »
They have some nice building/cutting mats there too.
4
Gettin all AMP'ed up! / Re: Climb and Dive Timer New Software Update V1.4
« Last post by CircuitFlyer on Today at 04:31:04 PM »
Mounting location inside a full fuse ship would be similar.  The edges of the timer need to be parallel to the major axis of the aircraft.  It can't be mounted at an angle or tilted.  It is an active timer. I tested different mounting locations on my limited fleet and found no noticeable difference.  Your airplane could be a little different and your probably a better pilot than I so maybe you could discern a slight advantage of one location over another.  Theoretically, mounting closer to the CofG might help reduce undesirable effects from excessive yaw or vibration.
5
New electronic technology / Re: Managing Molicel P28A 18650 batteries
« Last post by Ken Culbertson on Today at 04:06:57 PM »
Quote from: Matt Brown on Today at 12:56:50 PM
Over the last few months I have converted my SV11 arf from a 4S lipo system to a 6S 18650 setup. Motor runs much cooler at same rpm and prop(different motor but same size, different KV) and the 6S battery is a full 3oz lighter than the lipo battery I was using. I’ve been flying electric on lipos for about 20 years. Only the last 5 or so on CL stunt. I have good grasp on Lipo handling and management but not so much with these newer high rate 18650 cells. Can anyone share their thoughts on these batteries. I’ve been playing it safe so far only charging to 4.1 volts per cell and I’m only running them down to about 3.6/3.7 volts per cell(resting voltage).
I was very regimented on Lipos as I ruined my share in the early days of their use. I’d rather not abuse my 18650s. Are you doing storage charges? Limiting how long you leave a pack fully charged? Any other tidbits you can offer?

Thanks, Matt
Our electric fliers here have pretty much gone to 100% Li-Ion.  I do the same you are doing with the charge, overcharging is bad bad bad, but they can run down all the way to about 3% without batting an eye.  Storage is not necessary as a regular thing like it is with LIPO.  I keep my flying set fully charged for a couple of weeks and rotate through the set (I have 7) so that each battery gets used  at least once in that time frame.  My oldest one is just over a year, has about 50 cycles and performs just like my newest one.  If anyone could be accused of battery abuse, it is me.  Endgame III (64oz) uses every amp it can squeze out of my batteries.  I use 6s 2800 and I routinely put 24-2500 back when I recharge.  2300 if it is windy.  Similar planes to mine but lighter and without all the drag only use 1800.  Point - the batteries don't seem to care.  I am sure others will tell you to put them in storage but my experience is that they just don't need it.   AND 305 grams - priceless.

Ken
6
New electronic technology / Managing Molicel P28A 18650 batteries
« Last post by Matt Brown on Today at 12:56:50 PM »
Over the last few months I have converted my SV11 arf from a 4S lipo system to a 6S 18650 setup. Motor runs much cooler at same rpm and prop(different motor but same size, different KV) and the 6S battery is a full 3oz lighter than the lipo battery I was using. I’ve been flying electric on lipos for about 20 years. Only the last 5 or so on CL stunt. I have good grasp on Lipo handling and management but not so much with these newer high rate 18650 cells. Can anyone share their thoughts on these batteries. I’ve been playing it safe so far only charging to 4.1 volts per cell and I’m only running them down to about 3.6/3.7 volts per cell(resting voltage).
I was very regimented on Lipos as I ruined my share in the early days of their use. I’d rather not abuse my 18650s. Are you doing storage charges? Limiting how long you leave a pack fully charged? Any other tidbits you can offer?

Thanks, Matt
7
Open Forum / Re: Balsa Safari
« Last post by Dave_Trible on Today at 12:42:19 PM »
Quote from: Ken Culbertson on Today at 12:00:58 PM
I just had the same experience as Bob.  I hit the local Hobby Lobby about once a month. (Wish I knew their restocking schedule!) Their prices only *border* on outrageous and the manager has been more than willing to discount damaged sheets.  I got a sheet of 5lb 1/4x 4" with a corner damaged for $.95 and on another occasion two sheets of nice 6lb 1/16 for $.50 each.  Cap strips and wingtips for Endgame IV for $1.95.

It is rare that they get wood in that light.  Normally it is 7-8lb.  They had more undamaged sheets of 1/4" at around $11.00 but I didn't need.  We have three known Hobby Lobby scroungers that I know of so I passed it on.

Ken

Oh, one thing that amazes me about them is that they routinely have several hangers full of Bob Smith CA Accelerator and de-bonder which is great except that they do not carry CA Cement.   I have brought that to their attention and they told me that they, as store managers, have no input as to what they carry are not allowed to pass on things like that to the buyers.  And I thought Stunt fliers were crazy....
Stunt fliers ARE crazy.....We can be pretty loopy at times.
8
Open Forum / Re: Balsa Safari
« Last post by Ken Culbertson on Today at 12:00:58 PM »
I just had the same experience as Bob.  I hit the local Hobby Lobby about once a month. (Wish I knew their restocking schedule!) Their prices only *border* on outrageous and the manager has been more than willing to discount damaged sheets.  I got a sheet of 5lb 1/4x 4" with a corner damaged for $.95 and on another occasion two sheets of nice 6lb 1/16 for $.50 each.  Cap strips and wingtips for Endgame IV for $1.95.

It is rare that they get wood in that light.  Normally it is 7-8lb.  They had more undamaged sheets of 1/4" at around $11.00 but I didn't need.  We have three known Hobby Lobby scroungers that I know of so I passed it on.

Ken

Oh, one thing that amazes me about them is that they routinely have several hangers full of Bob Smith CA Accelerator and de-bonder which is great except that they do not carry CA Cement.   I have brought that to their attention and they told me that they, as store managers, have no input as to what they carry are not allowed to pass on things like that to the buyers.  And I thought Stunt fliers were crazy....
9
Open Forum / Re: Balsa Safari
« Last post by john e. holliday on Today at 11:27:53 AM »
Yes it pays to look around any store that has arts and crafts.   I too picked up on sheets that had a little damage and got a discount.  I have piked up glue bottles and other stuff you don't find in the local hobby shop. D>K
10
Open Forum / Re: Help with positioning WWII wing insignia
« Last post by Rusty on Today at 11:24:22 AM »
This looks to me like it is 90 degrees to fuselage.   What do you think?
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