I think it takes several weeks for the polycrylic clear to fully cure.   Just don't let raw fuel set on it for any length of time.  Will have to look but does Rustoleum have a spray clear?  But, then again it takes time for Rustoleum to cure completely.

 What's wrong with just using clear dope?

Warbird, maybe that's the answer. I've never used dope before and know little about it. So if I buy some Sig or Brodak clear butyrate, use it to lay my silkspan on, sand it and paint it again with the dope, I'm in business?
Rusty

 Pretty much, if it's going to be your final finish (clear) just make sure that you have good solid coverage everywhere. Once you have your silkspan on and sanded I'd go with at least 5 or 6 more good heavy coats of a 50/50 clear/thinner mix, sanding in between. Let it dry a few days and go fly, simple as that.

Thanks guys, I think I'm in business now.

Bye the way, that old Baby Streak in the picture is faintly amber. I bet that's what it is, solvent based urethane. I'll post a picture when I get it done.
Rusty

You can also use polyester resin.

Hey Rusty,

Just so you know, the AMA number goes on the outboard wing. I doubt if anyone would give you a hard time about it but...

Derek

RRC,

You could use auto clear on your wood.

Bring a small jar to your local auto body shop.

Probably get it for free.

One way to do this is to use clear dope 50/50 for say 8 coats, after the forth coat sand with 400 paper then apply the next four coats. Let it dry for a couple days, again sand with 400. Wipe off with degreaser, make sure you have all the mount holes drilled. Then either brush on or spray (with a Preval power sparyer - Home Depot cheap) KBS Diamond Clear (http://www.kbs-coatings.com/DiamondFinish-Clear.html). Mike G introduced us to this (do a search) and I gave it a try on a rebuild project. I just brush it on, it has no brush marks or overlaps it is totally fuel proof, one coat and done.

Best,       DennisT

Okay, I went shopping today. Didn't make it to Lowes, but I checked out the DIY section at Wally World and looked at two products.

Minwax Polyurethane said not recommended for outdoor use, but since my plane doesn't live outside, maybe okay.
Minwax Spar Urethane for outdoor use. Maybe the same thing with added UV protection, resisting yellowing, etc. Probably better.

They didn't have the Spar in a small can, so I left it on the shelf. I'll see if Lowes has a small can. Cash flow management ya' know.

I've used both of those products, one on my boat and the other on a chair, their intended uses.  Epoxy is miles better in terms of fuel proofing, either Klass-Kote  or 20 minute finish epoxy.  http://www.amazon.com/Finish-cure-20min-epoxy-4-5oz-Smith/dp/B001NIC3VW  The cost difference is small.  You won't (or shouldn't) use more than about 1 1/2 ounces.   Can't say we didn't try.

Rusty, i have always (well maybe after the first few airplanes including the Skyray), used Minwax polyurethane for a finish coat. Only problem i have ever had is the yellowing effect, especially if it is too heavy . Should do fine on bare wood. Also,  that KBS crystal clear would be great on bare wood, maybe you could borrow enough from someone to try on a 1/2a fuselage.

Top can, only in spray version.

Whenever I start a thread with a question, I like to follow up with whatever line of advice I followed and how it's working out. As I mentioned I'm building a new Skyray disguised as a Streak and was asking about finishing part of it with a natural wood finish. Not a showpiece, just a decent looking utility plane. Paul Wood and Ray Copeland both said a couple of coats of Minwax Polyurethane would do the job.

So it's coming along nicely and I've started coating some of the parts. I lightly foam brushed the  parts of the elevator and stab to prevent warping while waiting to be hinged. I sanded it thin and smooth and while gluing the hinges in I had to wipe some epoxy off of the wood with acetone. It didn't faze the urethane. I also tried alcohol and it was equally impervious to that. Very encouraging. Boy, a tiny bit gives great coverage too, I really like it. Here's what they look like after the first coat before sanding, which made them look even better.

It's all hinged up with the second coat drying now. The fuse behind the doublers will also get the bare look.

Here's the rudder, still needs some shaping to get some fat out and the proper Streak curves.


I'll pick a color for it after I paint the front end. Since I'm using aluminum Monokote flames on the front of the wing with Sky blue behind it I'm hoping to paint the nose and doublers Krylon aluminum. I have a test board drying to see if that paint can withstand Lustrekote or Minwax. If not, I'll go yellow on the front, and then decide on a color for the rudder. Maybe yellow, maybe silver. I'll cut the Streak shaped wingtips after mounting the wing and adding the flaps.

Anyway, that's what I came up with after starting this thread. Thanks for the answers.
Rusty