That's exactly what I did on this plane. I sprayed one coat of white on the entire plane and two coats over the area that would remain white. I expanded the two coat white area by a couple of inches into the area that I intended to paint red. That ensured I didn't have a light white area along the edges of the red/white transition after laying out the red design.

Paul

A light gray undercoat overall works well for me.  Makes kit easy to see the small flaws which then can be filled with a mixture of the same gray and zinc stearate.  Acts like a really light-weight primer.  Makes it easy to then cover with white, or red or yellow without resorting to lots of coats to cover any unevenness of the underlying materials/color shades.

Keith

Depends on the effect you want. With red, for instance, if you use white as an undercoat, it will tend to make the red much brighter. Black undercoat will make the red deeper and less bright. Gold underneath will give the red gold overtones. Just kinda depends on what kind of effect you want to create. Red is fairly transparent. Same for yellow.

I am using Rustoleum Gloss White on the wings and Red and Blue for the fuselage and trim.  Using Rustoleum gray filler/primer for the undercoat.  It dries flat and shows flaws beautifully.  I am curious if anybody else has used this and if so how long before it will "powder" when sanded?  I am getting hints of powder at two days.   I am guessing 4.  That is just too long for filler.  Can a nitrate layer exist between two Rustoleum's and still not pull off with the masking?

This used to be simple. 4 coats of Sig Clear.  Light sanding with 400.  Sig Color, one coat per day, till you couldn't see the wood. Mask and add trim then 4 coats of clear.  Wait a week, wet sand, polish and fly.  AND, you did all of that with a 1" Camel Hair brush!

Ken