Are there any dope colors that match up to any Ultracote colors? (other than black and white)

I doubt it, or in other words, none that I have heard of,, and I would not count on black and white matching either,, there are literally dozens of variations of black, and even more of white,, in fact, white is one of the hardest colors to match accuratly,,

Do you have any experience with the computerized color matching gizmos?  Am I correct in thinking that they're going to get you close, but still not get you right on the money as far as matching?

I'm not sure that you're ever going to get a perfect match between Ultracoat coloring and paint without clear coat, because Ultracoat is a clear film with colored glue on the back -- so when you apply it, you automatically have a "clear coat".  Even if you get the colors exact, the effect will be different until you get clear on the painted side.  Moreover, the lighter colors of Ultracoat don't cover completely, so unless you prime your airframe or use a fully opaque color, the underlying wood will color the final finish.

I'm pretty much set on 'coat & Rustoleum finishes for the time being, until I have a plane last one whole contest season without needing repair.  I live by these three rules:

A:  If the can says "white" or "red" or "blue" and the roll says "white" or "red" or "blue" I say "hey! it's the same color!" (wink, wink).

B:  I try to paint over the joins between painted and 'coated surfaces with trim -- two slightly mismatched colors separated by a blue or a black stripe look better than if they're lying right against each other.

C:  When I'm done, and I'm reviewing how nice the finish looks, I say the following: "don't care, don't care, don't care..."

Do you have any experience with the computerized color matching gizmos?  Am I correct in thinking that they're going to get you close, but still not get you right on the money as far as matching?

yes I do,, they are pretty darn accurate,, certainly close enough for our purpose,, however, I do not think you will have any luck using that technology to match dope or lacquer,, From my experience, even getting lacquer in a paint store is pretty much not available. Now I know some of the guys who are doing EF-1 RC racing are matching auto paint( urethane base) to Ultracote with this spectra scope. ( the planes are required to be iron on film for flying surfaces)

I'm not sure that you're ever going to get a perfect match between Ultracoat coloring and paint without clear coat, because Ultracoat is a clear film with colored glue on the back -- so when you apply it, you automatically have a "clear coat".  Even if you get the colors exact, the effect will be different until you get clear on the painted side.  Moreover, the lighter colors of Ultracoat don't cover completely, so unless you prime your airframe or use a fully opaque color, the underlying wood will color the final finish.

while Monokote is a clear film, with colored adhesive,, Ultracote is made different and thats one of many reasons I prefer it,, the color is IN the film so it wont transfer the color to the balsa.. However that being said,, your point is valid,, the gloss and translucence of the film is different from paint so you will have a slight mismatch regardless of how perfect the color is,, its the same type issue you have with yellow and needing to put white under it.

I'm pretty much set on 'coat & Rustoleum finishes for the time being, until I have a plane last one whole contest season without needing repair.  I live by these three rules:

A:  If the can says "white" or "red" or "blue" and the roll says "white" or "red" or "blue" I say "hey! it's the same color!" (wink, wink).

B:  I try to paint over the joins between painted and 'coated surfaces with trim -- two slightly mismatched colors separated by a blue or a black stripe look better than if they're lying right against each other.

C:  When I'm done, and I'm reviewing how nice the finish looks, I say the following: "don't care, don't care, don't care..."

all valid and proper points for where you are,, I probably should still be building simple finish models,, but now that I dont crash as often,, *fingers crossed* I have been getting more elaborate with my finishes,, hence my Avenger seldom finds itself below 7 or 8 feet when flying,,
for the record,, your point C should be,,, I care,, I care,, and thats why I DONT make them pretty, cause I care about flying for now,,,

yes I do,, they are pretty darn accurate,, certainly close enough for our purpose,, however, I do not think you will have any luck using that technology to match dope or lacquer,, From my experience, even getting lacquer in a paint store is pretty much not available.

What about the Randy Powell method of sweet-talking the guys at the paint store into selling you a quart can with a pile of pigment in the bottom, taking it home and filling it with Randolph clear?

(Not that I'm going to do this myself, mind, because when I get flying good enough I think I'll be doing dope over polyspan, or maybe dope on tissue on clear iron-on).

Klasskote.com