Well the silkspan covering on my Ringmaster gave up after I hit a bush, no structural damage just the paper covering blew up. So I am trying to save some weight so though I would go with transparent MonoKote that the LHS had in stock. Been a while since I did this was wondering if anyone has suggestions for it's application, ship is electric so no fuel issues.

Best,   DennisT

I would sand as much of the silkspan/dope finish off as possible, and then use some Balsarite or even ModPodge to act as an additional adhesive since, in my experience, Monokote does not like doped surfaces too much.

Steve

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Thanks Steve, I will be removing and sanding down to bare wood. In the past I have used Balsarite for film as a stick coat. One question when applying the transparent film, I would normally overlap it about 1/4", how to handle it so you don't get the overlap dark strip?

Best,   DennisT 

Cover the top surfaces first. That way overlap is on the bottom and less noticeable. Just the opposite of using opaques.

You would coat the bottom first and trim the edges so the top coat would over lap on the under side.


MM

Any suggestions on removing the old silkspan? I'm thinking maybe a little heat from a heat gun?

Best,   DennisT

Quote from: Dennis Toth on April 19, 2025, 10:19:14 AM
Any suggestions on removing the old silkspan? I'm thinking maybe a little heat from a heat gun?

Best,   DennisT

   Just start tearing off or cutting off what you can, and then apply paint remover too the doped surfaces and then scrape it off when it gets soft. Plan on doing lots more sanding. Experience is the best teacher, so just dig in and try stuff.

  Type at you later,
  Dan McEntee

If you can get Sig Stix-It you will find it is also very good as a heat activated bonding product for iron on or other covering materials.

OK, got all the old silkspan off the open bays, I want to do transparent yellow MonoKote to save time and a little weight. The silkspan was dyed   yellow so the stuff left on the leading and trailing edges is not noticeable under the film. This dope is butyrate, over a year old. I have sanded the surface, and it seems to try to get back to bare wood will mean really getting aggressive with very course sandpaper. I'm still working out of a bedroom, so this is not the best option.

I was thinking I could sand it smooth with say 220 and after tack ragging it off just apply the film over the old doped structure. Anyone done this? Since this is electric not worried about fuel infusion but would like it to stay in place without bubbling.

Best,   DennisT

Guys, should I do the wing tip separate?

Best,  DennisT

Anyone know a good video for film covering a wing like the Ringmaster?

Best,  DennisT

Quote from: Dennis Toth on May 01, 2025, 11:55:48 AM
Guys, should I do the wing tip separate?

Best,  DennisT

On a Monokoted Ringmaster tip - absolutely not.  Those tips are made for monokote.  Just make sure that they are smooth then watch one of the many monokote video's on pulling over a structure.  Just leave enough to get a grip and use a heat gun.  It takes two hands so you will probably have to put the fuselage in a vise to hold it.

Ken

Thanks Ken, I found a great set of MonoKote 101 Part 1 - 3 form Larry Marx on YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwurDVghvPg&t=342s&ab_channel=LarryMarx) that does a Ringmaster wing, just what I needed to refresh my skills.

Best,   DennisT

OK, finally have some time to get the Ringmaster recovered. One thing I was thinking about was to start on the bottom but not to seal down the trailing edge last 3/8" ish of covering. Then do the top, overlap the leading edge so the seam is on the bottom and going with the airflow, wrap the trialing edge around and seal to the wood about 3/16" then finally seal the bottom film over that so again the seam is going with the airflow.

Does this seem OK or just more work than needed?

Best,   DennisT

I've never seen where the airflow has any effect on the trailing edge monokote seem on my rat racers.


MM

Cover top first with 1/4" MAXIMUM overlap onto bottom surface.  Cover bottom trimming flush with aft edge of trailing edge.

I do agree with MM though......

Finally got some time to do the covering. So far the transparent yellow MonoKote is going on well. I even remembered to do the pin pepper surface prep and the tape trick to separate the backing. Not perfect be pretty good for first time applying in 20 years. Will complete inboard side and tighten up with heat gun. Should be ready to go for next week.

Thanks for the input, DennisT

Did you cover the top first as I suggested?

Quote from: Dennis Toth on June 25, 2025, 11:23:30 AM
Finally got some time to do the covering. So far the transparent yellow MonoKote is going on well. I even remembered the tape trick to separate the backing. Not perfect be pretty good for first time applying in 20 years. Will complete inboard side and tighten up with heat gun. Should be ready to go for next week.

Thanks for the input, DennisT

Dave,
Actually, I did the bottom outside panel first to get a feel for how it would go onto the old dope that was still on the LE & TE. When that worked well, I just proceeded to cover. I did wrap the edges and seal them onto each other. After the basic covering was on all panels, I used a heat gun to shrink it tight and smooth. MonoKote is very easy to shrink tight with the heat gun, some other materials don't like the heat gun and don't tighten well with it. This was just good luck that the LHS had MonoKote as I am still unpacking from the move and my model supplies are still in boxes in the garage.

Mistakes: I made a few, starting with I should have looked at the video before I cut the panels. Although I had enough to cover the wing panels I should have cut them an inch or two larger, would have been easier to position. Some spots would have been easier if I had a trim iron, but mine is still packed some place in the garage. Also, should have had a #11 x acto but made do with a single edge razor blade. All in all it is very neat job and with a little trim work later will do just fine to get back in the air.

I have a photo of the finished ship but my phone needs to back it up so I can paste it here.

Best,   DennisT

Back in the air today!! The morning was a nice 78F and very light winds, so I decided to venture out. Worked great, ship is about where it was before the bush trimming incident. It was a little slow to spool up, need to adjust ESC to faster ramp. I have a short takeoff area and need to get rolling faster. What spool rate have you guys used?

Best,   DennisT

Quote from: Dennis Toth on June 30, 2025, 11:09:43 AM
What spool rate have you guys used?

Best,   DennisT

I fly on concrets so I use slow.  My current ESCs are set to full (long story) and the little 2320 motors nearly rip the nacelles off.  Not good for anything to ramp up fast.  Medium is probably OK.

Ken

I'll answer your question instead of just making a post.....
Castle Talon 35 ESC spool up rate set to 15.

Quote from: Dennis Toth on June 30, 2025, 11:09:43 AM
Back in the air today!! The morning was a nice 78F and very light winds, so I decided to venture out. Worked great, ship is about where it was before the bush trimming incident. It was a little slow to spool up, need to adjust ESC to faster ramp. I have a short takeoff area and need to get rolling faster. What spool rate have you guys used?

Best,   DennisT

Dave,
OK moved the spool up to 15 and set the ESC current cutoff to sensitive (was at normal). Did a quick test run up and all was good. For the soft start is there another setting that I should adjust to get up to full power sooner?

Best,   DennisT

Here's my entire .DAT file that is loaded into my Castle Creations Talon 35 ESC on my PointsFinder (620sq in at 54oz Cobra 3515).

Quote from: Dennis Toth on July 01, 2025, 03:55:16 PM
Dave,
OK moved the spool up to 15 and set the ESC current cutoff to sensitive (was at normal). Did a quick test run up and all was good. For the soft start is there another setting that I should adjust to get up to full power sooner?

Best,   DennisT

Dave,
Thanks for the setup information. It is very close to mine. One thing I will try is to bump up the motor start to custom 80. This should speed up the start to full power and shorten my take-off run.

Best,
Dennis Toth