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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Dennis Toth on April 14, 2025, 10:24:25 AM
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Well the silkspan covering on my Ringmaster gave up after I hit a bush, no structural damage just the paper covering blew up. So I am trying to save some weight so though I would go with transparent MonoKote that the LHS had in stock. Been a while since I did this was wondering if anyone has suggestions for it's application, ship is electric so no fuel issues.
Best, DennisT
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I would sand as much of the silkspan/dope finish off as possible, and then use some Balsarite or even ModPodge to act as an additional adhesive since, in my experience, Monokote does not like doped surfaces too much.
Steve
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Thanks Steve, I will be removing and sanding down to bare wood. In the past I have used Balsarite for film as a stick coat. One question when applying the transparent film, I would normally overlap it about 1/4", how to handle it so you don't get the overlap dark strip?
Best, DennisT
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Cover the top surfaces first. That way overlap is on the bottom and less noticeable. Just the opposite of using opaques.
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You would coat the bottom first and trim the edges so the top coat would over lap on the under side.
MM 8)
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Any suggestions on removing the old silkspan? I'm thinking maybe a little heat from a heat gun?
Best, DennisT
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Any suggestions on removing the old silkspan? I'm thinking maybe a little heat from a heat gun?
Best, DennisT
Just start tearing off or cutting off what you can, and then apply paint remover too the doped surfaces and then scrape it off when it gets soft. Plan on doing lots more sanding. Experience is the best teacher, so just dig in and try stuff.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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If you can get Sig Stix-It you will find it is also very good as a heat activated bonding product for iron on or other covering materials.
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OK, got all the old silkspan off the open bays, I want to do transparent yellow MonoKote to save time and a little weight. The silkspan was dyed yellow so the stuff left on the leading and trailing edges is not noticeable under the film. This dope is butyrate, over a year old. I have sanded the surface, and it seems to try to get back to bare wood will mean really getting aggressive with very course sandpaper. I'm still working out of a bedroom, so this is not the best option.
I was thinking I could sand it smooth with say 220 and after tack ragging it off just apply the film over the old doped structure. Anyone done this? Since this is electric not worried about fuel infusion but would like it to stay in place without bubbling.
Best, DennisT
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Guys, should I do the wing tip separate?
Best, DennisT
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Anyone know a good video for film covering a wing like the Ringmaster?
Best, DennisT
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Guys, should I do the wing tip separate?
Best, DennisT
On a Monokoted Ringmaster tip - absolutely not. Those tips are made for monokote. Just make sure that they are smooth then watch one of the many monokote video's on pulling over a structure. Just leave enough to get a grip and use a heat gun. It takes two hands so you will probably have to put the fuselage in a vise to hold it.
Ken
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Thanks Ken, I found a great set of MonoKote 101 Part 1 - 3 form Larry Marx on YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwurDVghvPg&t=342s&ab_channel=LarryMarx) that does a Ringmaster wing, just what I needed to refresh my skills.
Best, DennisT