If they're over wood, you should be able to just dope further and sand them out. For future reference, you can dampen silkspan (or tissue. I suppose) and lay it over the pre-doped wood. I use enough dope and sanding to get a bit of a sheen, before laying the tissue on. I cannot vouch for your particular choice of dope/thinner, but using Brodak clear and thinner has worked well for me. Several coats and some sanding to take out high grain and level the surface, followed by paper, and finally brushed-on thinner to adhear the paper to the original dope has worked well with no wrinkles. The problems I've encountered are two fold, but not visible in final finish:

1) The new "silkspan" has not adhered as well as the old stuff (do a SSW Forum search for lots of commentary).

2) If you don't let the dope really dry for several hours, I'm convinced that the paper can "float" up some, causing a heavier finish.

Otherwise, no wrinkles. You can have as smooth a finish as you want.

So...you should be able to sand and dope for a perfectly level and smooth finish, even though you have wrinkles now.

Edit: Having re-read the post, I should comment that, if there's a wrinkle, then there's excess paper. Often this can be accomodated by working the paper some with the fingers, while doping. However, I often cut slits in the paper and either overlap or cut out more material to minimize any overlap. In either case, sanding removes that excess paper, sometimes even before the work is "dry  (as long as it's only detached in tiny areas, like along a narrow wrinkle, and not a large-area 'blister'). If there is bare wood, yes, you can easily patch and sand the edges. If a large area is not attached, remove it and patch, sanding later along the edges. In both cases, tearing the paper edges, rather than cutting them makes feathering easier. It seems nerve-wracking sometimes, but after a few successes, you get to expect things to come out all right. Trust me!

SK

I'm with Randy on sticking the tissue down around the edges, then water shrinking.  This will give a smoother finish than the bit of sticking the tissue down all over with thinner.   However, do not do this on a 1/8 in thick stab and elevator. Not unless you want a pretzel.

I'm with Randy on sticking the tissue down around the edges, then water shrinking.  This will give a smoother finish than the bit of sticking the tissue down all over with thinner.   However, do not do this on a 1/8 in thick stab and elevator. Not unless you want a pretzel.

How about a 1/8 inch slab wing and 1/16 inch slab stab?

I ain't getting close to that thing with water!

         Tim, the right thinner is of key importance. I'm not saying it can't be done though its just very helpful. For instance Sig thinner is a slower thinner than Brodak . I find that unless humidity is high I can generally get by with Sig products. When using Brodak, I almost always have to add retarder as to not get blushing. I've had those wrinkles you have and I could wet the area with a few brush strokes and pick a corner up and pull the wrinkles out. You should be able to do that with Brodak as well, you just may have to keep the area wet with thinner. As noted above, you could dampen the tissue and then install followed by brushing over it. I would suggest using a thinned mixture of clear though. This may blush initially due to the dampness in the tissue but typically goes away when another coat is applied. The one problem I've found with the hardware store lacquer thinners I've tried is that they never seem to work well. I only use these to clean and I feel they don't do a sufficient job in doing so. I notice this when trying to clean brushes they still get hard as where the proper thinner leaves the bristles soft and free. I just recently had one thinner make the dope on the brush gel and turn a whitish color. Sig thinner is expensive but it works well. Ken