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Author Topic: Spackling and water  (Read 849 times)

Offline Glen Wearden

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Spackling and water
« on: January 04, 2010, 12:11:58 PM »
Last Saturday, I was out at our RC field and heard one of my friends tell about how he gets a smooth surface on balsa without much sanding.  He mixes light spackling (the kind that comes in a plastic jar and is almost weightless) with water to a milky consistency.  He then brushes it on the plane with a foam brush.  When dry, he sands with medium to fine sandpaper, and all the grain lines, etc. are gone.  He claims that he applies his film covering directly without using clear dope or balsarite, and the film adheres just fine, but I think I would feel safer using a base coat of some type.  Should work well for silkspan and dope, or fabric.  I might give it a try.

Glen Wearden
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Offline Randy Powell

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Re: Spackling and water
« Reply #1 on: January 04, 2010, 12:24:18 PM »
I think you're begging for adhesion problems and also, this sort of approach will, with time and drying, sink into the grain. Depending on where you live (how humid it is) this could take a very long time to completely dry and when it does, it will sink into the grain.

This is the same sort of idea as using dope based filler coat. Works great as long as there is a base underneath it (like silkspan). Without that, even what appears to be a very smooth based with start showing grain in a few weeks at most.
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Offline phil c

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Re: Spackling and water
« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2010, 12:38:10 PM »
If you just mix the spachtle with water it gets even softer and tends to sand out of any dings or cracks, which then show through the covering.

I've had better results thinning the stuff with water-based polyu varnish(Min-Wax, Varathane).  1 tbsp per cup is usually about right.  If you add too much it will sink to the bottom of the container overnight.  You can mix it back in or add a more spachtle.

If you are trying for a 20 pt finish this is probably not the way to go.  But for a sport plane, or just plane in a hurry it works pretty well.
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Offline Glen Wearden

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Re: Spackling and water
« Reply #3 on: January 05, 2010, 10:01:24 AM »
Thanks for the comments.  I thought it sounded too easy.  I've had experience with spackling; it shrinks, etc.  Probably thinned clear dope with corn starch for a sanding sealer is better.  Or, maybe putting down a coat of thinned nitrate on the bare wood, and then the spackling mix.  It's fun to experiment.

Glen Wearden
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Offline john e. holliday

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Re: Spackling and water
« Reply #4 on: January 06, 2010, 09:04:49 AM »
This sounds like the stuff Hobby Poxy used to sell until the government stepped in.  It was just like putty out of the can.  Flying partner would just put it on with a spatula as thin as he could get it.  Once the plane had an even color to it he would set it aside for a day and then start sanding.  Created more dust than dope and talc.  One coat of clear dope to seal it(brushed).  Then go with his colors.  After several years never seen any sign of wood grain.  This was done on solid wood surfaces.  He said it would not work on fabric. 
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Offline EddyR

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Re: Spackling and water
« Reply #5 on: February 04, 2010, 10:17:08 AM »
I have used a simular method for years. I use strips of balsa instead of blocks and there are a lot of seems. I use spacking heavy on the wood and sand it all away. It leaves the wood smooth and the grain is filled. I then cover it with tissue or silk and have never had a problem with it. Many of my planes are 20+ years old. I like it because it always comes out light not heavy.
Ed
Locust NC 40 miles from the Huntersville field

Offline Wynn Robins

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Re: Spackling and water
« Reply #6 on: February 04, 2010, 12:04:32 PM »
I have actually done this on the Cardinal pictured below - first tho, you have to spray the balsa to get it to swell a little (just lightly spray it) then put the spackle "paste" on it.

the finish comes out really nice...... I got the idea from Heman Lees aeromaniacs site .......
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