Although you can paint directly over the SLC, I didn't want a ridge where the SLC ended so I covered the portion I was going to paint with carbon veil adhered with Eze-Kote.

Applied the CF veil, then several coats of Eze-kote, sanding between coats until smooth.  Primed with DC-540 primer with the rest of the parts to be painted, then color coats.  The ridge between the painted surface and the clear SLC film is at the red pinstripe line and not very noticeable.

What is EZ-Kote? I never heard of it. 

https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/gb/rc-modelling/82-eze-kote-5060243900746.html

It's a pretty cool water based finishing resin.  It is not like Minwax Polycrylic.  The viscosity is thicker and it dries quite rapidly.  Sands well too.  It smells totally different from polycrylic, also.

There are some good videos of it in use on youtube. 

My Ringmaster is now over a year old and still sag free!  No hangar rash or noticeable damage from two (count them, two) inverted landings on asphalt. (Note that I am Designman, not Pilotman) 

And you continue to live in a climate like that??? Well, The Peoples' Republic of Califonikstan is crowded enough, but there is lots of room left near Tucson. Trostle left a magnificent house there. 

Jim... just a butt inski here...but WHY?

Maybe I am not paying close enough attention

BUT--- I thought the exercise was to do a Fast and very Strong covering method--- USING poly/tissue/silk and then--- one of the super lite plastic coverings Like SLC, or thin FasCal/ mica film

IMO MonoKote---  or similar--- has already all the strength and color needed by it self

That said...I think the initial covering (tissue/poly span/silkspan/silk) is put on traditionally nice and tight on the perimeter and only ever needs stuck down to the ribs on a polywog rid set like a Ringmaster....all other rib types should be left free so the SLC/////ect,...can shrink and stick to the first covering without adding torque to the ribs or balsa wing

I use a lot of Poly span and silk on wings.

I think Larry Renger found a way for US to NOT have to add weight with Dope and Use the Lite coverings  (SLC/Doculam/FadCal) as the shiny top cote and the added benefit ...by accident...was that the composite of the two coverings saved time, looked good...and structurally was tougher than traditional method using dope to fill the paper/tissue/cloth

Bottom line is...IMO MonoKote covering does all this by itself.... But that said--- no MonoKote can look or be as strong as a traditional silk n dope method or Larry Rengers discovery method

EDITED in after sending...Jim I DO NOT intend this to sound as harsh or judgement as it does....

Just curious how you arrived at following this method to think about using MonoKote over something else.... mostly because early on, I GOT the notion Larry was trying to show four things...Light weight, faster, looks good, stronger (an accidental by product IMO)

And BTW
NOT TO take away from Larry-- But I think Bobby Mears, INDEPENDENTLY--- found a very similar method so he could rapidly finish dozens of Nostalgia combat planes for the Combat Museum...IIRK He experimentee with fogging the back side of SLC/FasCal/Doculam with paints to simulate the Silk n Dope finish and found it was just as easy to do a polyspan heat shrunk and then the plastic and looked just like a silk n dope finish

Fully understand Jim....you are trading strength and durability for tightness and accepting the weight gain...

I might recommend Move on to Ultra kote as I think it holds it's tension better long term...I am in Texas with 130~150F on a 104F OAT day in the car is typical and the loosening of my films....all of them...is always an issue


OTOH I have read here that some think UltrKote is looser over time....not my personal experience but I only have 5 years experience/history to go by

Doping the ribs to smooth them out is good. Bonding the Polyspan to the ribs (when first covering) is bad because you want the material to slide around as it shrinks. Once shrunk, if you seal to the ribs using thinner would probably be OK and might improve torsional strength.  Do NOT dope the entire fabric covering as it adds weight and creates bubble areas in the top covering.

Old free-flighters may remember double covering large models. Silkspan lightly doped with an overlay of Japanese tissue bonded down to it. Easy to get a slick finish and remarkably strong.

For large models, Monokote over Polyspan would still be lighter than a conventional dope finish, easier, quicker, slicker (than I can do, anyway) and way stronger.

Very nice.  I like the transparent color.

I am finishing up two more models per Larry's method.  Have also flown the ones I have finished.   Makes for quick finishes that shine.   Also easy to wipe clean.

Hoooee! 32,000 + views! 

 There aren't that many CL fliers, are there? 

It works fantastic!  The weight, by an actual test sample, is 1.46 oz/sq.yard.  The structural rigidity it adds is amazing.  I have some technique to work on as far as flawless tips, but the ones I did aren't horrible.

Now I need to work on how to properly paint it.  I have a sample piece drying. It is Painters' Choice right on the steel wool buffed SLC.

Larry,
Works like a champ doesn't it?  Next time add some trim to the plyspan before covering it with SLC.  Use a spray adhesive and very lightly spray the back of the trim.  Stay away from the trim 3 feet and spray above it and allow the adhesive to lightly fall onto the trim.  Place the trim on the plyspan and lightly rub the trim in place (do not apply dope to the trim).  The SLC will hold the trim in place when ironed on.

Later,
Mikey

        Rebuilt an old silkspan covered Scorpion fast combat and covered it with SLC over Dacron. I used John Holiday's Mod Podge system to iron down the Dacron then used it to recoat the leading, trailing and tip edges for a belt and suspenders approach to ironing the SLC on. The yellow paint is an anxient can of Formula-U over sprayed with green RC car paint. The urethane stuck to the SLC quite well but don't have much hope for the  'candy' accent.

        Ara

Several years and a couple of trips to Tucson later, the Ringmaster still looks pretty good. Anyone else have information on how well this technique stands up to the ravages of time?

Hi Guy's,
I had a real problem covering my new P-Force XL.  I applied the red plyspan tissue to the model, then covered the model with the SLC and it looked AWESOME.  I manage to stick the end of the inboard wing into a running overhead ceiling fan and destroyed the wing tip, leading edge sheeting, and three of the wing ribs.  When I was inspecting the damage I noticed the tissue under the SCL wasn't attached to the cap strips.  It may have been good enough but I wasn't happy with it at all. 

After stripping the wing and repairing the damage area, I opted for UltraCoat covering to finish up the model.  On my next model I'll apply a few coats of Stix-it to the capstrips and cover it using plyspan tissue and after applying the SLC, I'll rub the SLC to each of the wing cap strips with an iron.  This should attach the plyspan and the SCL to each of the wing ribs and greatly increase the strength of the wing covering.

Later,
Mikey

I don't recommend doping the poly-span/silk span to the ribs.   I do shrink it before putting the clear mylar/SLC on.   so far the covering has stayed tight and several places it looked like some thing tried to poke holes in it.  A pass with the iron and all is good.  Latest plane still looks good and is the one I'm building a stooge for.

Here's my latest build using SLC over Polyspan.  I really like using this method for these type planes.  Saves tons of time and looks great.  The "Able" is one of my original designs from 1960 when I was in high school.  Flew it at the Vintage Combat Festival last Sunday.

Thanks, Doc.  It flies great.  Yes, I have the plans.  Here's a copy.

Thanks, now to head for Staples.

Dang, after 5 years of mistreatment there are some scrapes and holes in the Ringmaster’s covering. I may strip it and redo, or put clear tape over the breaks.

The fuselage has been broken behind the wing courtesy of three different people stepping on then kicking my lines at VSC this year. (Hmmm, enemy action? Can’t believe I am good enough to warrant it.) Plus a couple of inverted landings. It ain’t a virgin no more.

My ABC Fox 35 gives a great 2/4 performance. 2 3/4 ounces of fuel for the OT pattern. 10x5 Brodak prop, 10/22 fuel. Currently flying 50x.012 lines, but may try longer lines with a higher pitch prop. Then pick up the nitro as needed to keep up the lap time.

Still weighs under 30 ounces even with an ounce of tail weight. Epoxy basecoat on the fuselage nose and Klasskote finish, so no oil soaking. Carbon fiber veil on the fuselage and horizontal tail. Pinned hinges aligned with a single wire. At rest the elevator just flops right down. No apparent friction in the system.

Sadly, my Ceramic Fox crankshaft broke the crankpin off, so it needs a rebuild. Ty Marcucci sent me a complete engine, but it is so cherry that I can’t bear to strip it for the crank! A good machine needs the respect it deserves!

Thanks to Andy Borgogna, I have an even lighter Ringmaster with an OS20 fp to fly. So I can strip mine and rework it at my leisure.

Sadly, Andy has Rotaror Cuff problems that will keep him from CL flying in the future. A sad state of affairs, but he will still be with us flying (gasp) RC. And he will still be a resource as the West Coast electric power guru. I still think he could fly 1/2A models without pain, but no luck so far.

The SkySport covering is still in great shape. This technique seems to be really durable.

Anyone done a painted finish on SLC over Polyspan and how did it come out and last?

For get the steel wool, use a scouring foam pad.  At least that is what I'm using now.

Just wanted to show my latest finish on sport planes.   Did use epoxy around the engine compartment.   No dope,  doctor paper under the laminate clear.

Larry, I tried to apply doctor paper slightly damp the first time I had it.  What a mess.  Using the Mod Podge I put it on dry and it does shrink some after applied.

Hi, Larry-
Thinking ahead towards finishing a Magician for a buddy I am building, I am wondering about getting trim colors onto the finished product without painting. Essentially, I want it between the polyspan and the SLC layer.
I am thinking two ideas-

1. Polyspan covering, then colored tissue in my trim color areas, then SLC.

2. Polyspan covering, then transparent or opaque film covering in my trim covering areas, the SLC over.

Any commentary for either of these ideas? Have you done this before? I would love to use the tissue, but I am concerned about the dope or other material needed for attachment causing bubbles under the SLC when heated.

Thanks,
Target

Ok, i hadn't thought of that, thanks. Would the Modge Podge work as well?

Ah ha....
OK thank you Larry!!