Author Topic: Rustoleum (Read 2242 times)

JamieHolford · « **on:** March 06, 2011, 06:26:29 AM »

I keep hearing about Rustoleum.

I cant seem to find a thread about it to much other than people jsut saying that they are using it.

What kind of rustoleum? Spray can or brush.

Enamel? How many coats?

Would it be best to put some Clear dope on my fuselage first before applying the Rustoleum?

And what colors are fuel proof?

Was thinking on going the Rustoleum route since Colored dope prices are going thru the roof now-a-days. I mean who wants to pay over 7 bucks for a 4 .oz jar.

Balsa Butcher · « **Reply #1 on:** March 06, 2011, 04:09:46 PM »

Although a "Search" on this forum did not access as much info as I thought it would, a "Search" on the other forum was more informative. Check it out, I think most or your questions will be answered. I would post a straighter answer except most of my experience is in dope finishes and I prefer not to pass on second-hand info.

Bill Little · « **Reply #2 on:** March 06, 2011, 10:41:22 PM »

HI Jamie,

Rustoleum Enamel in the spray cans. Evidently the clear is not fuel proof nor some of the metallics.

My question on whether or not to use it on open bays covered with silkspan was met with almost on one giving a comment!

I decided not to, since i don't have a clue as to how I would patch any holes. Dope will eat the Rustoleum. I have used it on solid surfaces, and did the work up until the color coats just like I always do. Dope, filler, etc..

Big Bear

Clint Ormosen · « **Reply #3 on:** March 07, 2011, 03:54:00 AM »

Yup, Rustoleum works great for model paint. I have done several sport models with it. Like Bill said, use the enamel in the spray cans. Stick to the solid colors. Use as little as possible because it's kinda heavy paint (the stuff covers pretty good with light coats anyway) and let it cure for as long as possible before getting fuel on it. Using it over open bays is fine, but as stated a repair would be more difficult as dope eats all other paints. I usually MonoKote the open bays and spray the solid ones. If you let Rustoleum cure well it can be sanded and polished too. It's by far and away the best out of the can quickie finishing way to go.

JamieHolford · « **Reply #4 on:** March 07, 2011, 05:51:20 AM »

thanks for the replies.

I am planning on using this jsut for my fueslage and will be using monokote for my wings.

Curious on how it holds up in hte nose where the engine is.I'd imagine it be no different than the tail.

My colors in mind are Black with Cream ( linen color ) trim.

JamieHolford · « **Reply #5 on:** March 07, 2011, 05:57:03 AM »

Also is a primer coat needed? What color? Grey?

Sorry Im very new

Bill Little · « **Reply #6 on:** March 07, 2011, 08:41:24 AM »

Quote from: JamieHolford on March 07, 2011, 05:57:03 AM

Also is a primer coat needed? What color? Grey? Sorry Im very new

HI Jamie,

Once yuo do the "substrate" (clear dope/filler) primer would be optional. The black will cover everything real well! Are you speaking of a "primer" or a "filler"? Youcan use an automotive primer instead of dope filler. Or you can use the dope filler and use a "blocking coat".

Like Clint said, it covers very good but can get heavy in a heart beat.

Big Bear

Steven Kientz · « **Reply #7 on:** March 07, 2011, 02:36:04 PM »

Jamie

You and I are in the same boat, learning to fly. I would skip the dope/ filler and go with the primer(gray for dark colors, white for light colors). I assume this is a profile to learn with ? Spend less time on the finish and more time flying. Besides if (when ?) you crash you'll have less steps in the repair.

Tight lines
Steve

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #8 on:** March 07, 2011, 03:10:16 PM »

Things I've learned:

You can finish the fuselage with Minwax Polycrylic (water-based) underneath the Rustoleum. It's not fuel proof, but the Rustoleum will take care of that if you get good coverage
Silkspan/Polycrylic seems to work nice
Putting some talcum powder in the Polycrylic makes it sand easier -- Polycrylic by itself really wants to ball up in the paper, the talc prevents that
Let the Rustoleum dry for a long time -- I let my Waiex dry for about 10 days, and the flat black on the canopy wasn't quite fuel proof yet. I repainted and let it dry for six weeks and it was fine. Somewhere in the middle lies the real answer
I've heard reports that darker colors (and black) aren't as fuel proof -- this may just be dry time, because my canopy is doing fine

Overall, I'm very pleased with the process. It's a lot easier to get a five foot finish with Rustoleum and Ultracoat than with silkspan & dope (or, I assume, Polyspan & dope). You'll probably never get a six inch finish with it -- for that you should be looking at dope or auto paints.

JamieHolford · « **Reply #9 on:** March 07, 2011, 04:42:38 PM »

Im not lookin for a Nats finish on this plane. Its my S1 RIngmaster.

But I do want it nice enough for Baton Rouge in October. But get it flying is the key at this point. Just gona go with a basic paint n trim scheme nothing fancy.

So minwax ploy on the barewood. then a few coats of Rusto on top. Seems easy enough

Joe Mig · « **Reply #10 on:** March 08, 2011, 08:08:20 AM »

Well I'm in the learning process myself.
So far I used it on two profile plane's with great results and two coats seem to do the trick first thin and a second coat. .
I just finished a third and I'm really disappointed . I wanted to get creative and do two color's, the first was fine so I let it dry for at least a week and masked it up and did the second color the same way . I let it dry in the boiler room for a day and when I removed the tape the second color peeled up with the tape in spots. It seems like it did not adhere to the first color. So I'm not happy with it so I think I will finish it and see how it fly's then think about removing the paint and doing it over. I have done this with plastic model kits with EZ off oven cleaner .
Does anyone know if it works on wood as good ?

Clint Ormosen · « **Reply #11 on:** March 08, 2011, 08:35:42 AM »

Quote from: JamieHolford on March 07, 2011, 05:57:03 AM

Also is a primer coat needed? What color? Grey? Sorry Im very new

I just use the Rustoleum gray automobile primer. Put on your silkspan with a couple coats of dope then sand a little bit. Then start priming with the Rusoleum primer. Two coats sanded in between should be fine. Then color coats. Then wait for full cure. Good to go.

dennis lipsett · « **Reply #12 on:** March 09, 2011, 02:59:27 PM »

If your using dope then by all means use a primer. You can have a problem with Rustoleum drying completely over dope. I usually do not use dope but water based urethane instead. also remember that if you do not put some form of barrier on you will show wood grain sooner or later. if your doing a decent finish it pays to use either silkspan or 1/2 oz F/G cloth. If your just learning then i guess it is a step that can be omitted in the interest of getting a somewhat disposable model ready to go.

phil c · « **Reply #13 on:** March 09, 2011, 07:10:16 PM »

Quote from: Joe Mig on March 08, 2011, 08:08:20 AM

Well I'm in the learning process myself.
So far I used it on two profile plane's with great results and two coats seem to do the trick first thin and a second coat. .
I just finished a third and I'm really disappointed . I wanted to get creative and do two color's, the first was fine so I let it dry for at least a week and masked it up and did the second color the same way . I let it dry in the boiler room for a day and when I removed the tape the second color peeled up with the tape in spots. It seems like it did not adhere to the first color. So I'm not happy with it so I think I will finish it and see how it fly's then think about removing the paint and doing it over. I have done this with plastic model kits with EZ off oven cleaner .
Does anyone know if it works on wood as good ?

The white Rust-O-Leum is especially prone to lifting with the masking tape. Use auto primer as the base coat and sand it mostly off. Then clean it thoroughly with alcohol and/or acetone several times to get all the dust off. Use a heat gun to warm the tape when removing it. Pull the tape back on itself 180 degrees and go slow. You can easily see if the base coat is starting to lift, so slow down. Once the tape is off the loosened paint can be patted back down and it will stick just fine.

Augsburger · « **Reply #14 on:** March 10, 2011, 10:07:11 PM »

Rustoleum finish pics coming soon...

Author Topic: Rustoleum (Read 2242 times)

JamieHolford

Rustoleum

Balsa Butcher

Re: Rustoleum

Bill Little

Re: Rustoleum

Clint Ormosen

Re: Rustoleum

JamieHolford

Re: Rustoleum

JamieHolford

Re: Rustoleum

Bill Little

Re: Rustoleum

Steven Kientz

Re: Rustoleum

Tim Wescott

Re: Rustoleum

JamieHolford

Re: Rustoleum

Joe Mig

Re: Rustoleum

Clint Ormosen

Re: Rustoleum

dennis lipsett

Re: Rustoleum

phil c

Re: Rustoleum

Augsburger

Re: Rustoleum