Well, I decided, in a rush, to try and clear coat my Ringmaster last Saturday.  Humidity was high, but I thought that , with extra retarder, I could still spray.  Wrong!!!  Plane looks like it was dipped in milk; about ready to shoot it black and call it a day.  I could really use some suggestions on how to deal with the blushing.

Brew

Harold,

What type of paint did you use for the clear coat?

Charles

Hey Harold:

If you want to try out the search function, there's going to be lots of threads on curing this problem.  Search on "blush".

I am just regurgitating what I've read here (since my retread into control line I've been covering with 'coat), but the options are:

• Spray a coat of thinner + retarder
• Or a coat of 80-90% thinner + retarder, the rest cleal
• Or a normal coat of clear

The idea is that you thin out the clear that you have, which gives the water in it a chance to migrate out before the dope dries (it's water getting trapped in the dope that causes the blush in the first place).  This is best done under good conditions -- if you do it on a really humid day you'll just give the system another opportunity to trap some water.

That's what I know.  If Mark Scarborough, Billy Byles, or one of the other real painters on the forum contradict me -- they're right.

If you are in a hurry forget it.  Wait until conditions are right.   I put final coat of clear on my '13' out side the basement when temps were in the 60's and hardly any humidity.   Before this the pink covering was almost white with blush.   Next morning when I got up and checked the plane, it was back to the pink it was supposed to be and no blushes anywhere. 

Most of the suggestions above are good. Remember that the "blush" is just water trapped in the clear. The idea is to soften the surface so that the water can escape.