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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Harold Brewer on July 06, 2016, 06:53:01 AM
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Well, I decided, in a rush, to try and clear coat my Ringmaster last Saturday. Humidity was high, but I thought that , with extra retarder, I could still spray. Wrong!!! Plane looks like it was dipped in milk; about ready to shoot it black and call it a day. I could really use some suggestions on how to deal with the blushing.
Brew H^^
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Well, I decided, in a rush, to try and clear coat my Ringmaster last Saturday. Humidity was high, but I thought that , with extra retarder, I could still spray. Wrong!!! Plane looks like it was dipped in milk; about ready to shoot it black and call it a day. I could really use some suggestions on how to deal with the blushing.
Brew H^^
Harold,
What type of paint did you use for the clear coat?
Charles
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Charles - Everything is Brodak; paint and clear. Used 3608S plus SIG retarder.
Brew H^^
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Hey Harold:
If you want to try out the search function, there's going to be lots of threads on curing this problem. Search on "blush".
I am just regurgitating what I've read here (since my retread into control line I've been covering with 'coat), but the options are:
- Spray a coat of thinner + retarder
- Or a coat of 80-90% thinner + retarder, the rest cleal
- Or a normal coat of clear
The idea is that you thin out the clear that you have, which gives the water in it a chance to migrate out before the dope dries (it's water getting trapped in the dope that causes the blush in the first place). This is best done under good conditions -- if you do it on a really humid day you'll just give the system another opportunity to trap some water.
That's what I know. If Mark Scarborough, Billy Byles, or one of the other real painters on the forum contradict me -- they're right.
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Charles - Everything is Brodak; paint and clear. Used 3608S plus SIG retarder.
Brew H^^
Charles - Everything is Brodak; paint and clear. Used 3608S plus SIG retarder.
Brew H^^
Harold,
Couple of things. First off, most paint professionals don't mix brands. Sure, some modelers get away with doing this and swear by it, but it's not recommended.
I have no dope experience so I cannot offer a definite fix, but any paint can blush. Tim's advice is a good approach to the fix and will most likely fix the issue or improve grately what you have.
You could try a heat gun, you might get lucky. Sometimes it works.
If nothing works, black isn't all that bad of a color.
Good luck.
Charles
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If you are in a hurry forget it. Wait until conditions are right. I put final coat of clear on my '13' out side the basement when temps were in the 60's and hardly any humidity. Before this the pink covering was almost white with blush. Next morning when I got up and checked the plane, it was back to the pink it was supposed to be and no blushes anywhere.
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Spraying Brodak thinner in a light mist that descends to the surface has always worked for me. I don't think that doing this now in high humidity will damage anything.
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Most of the suggestions above are good. Remember that the "blush" is just water trapped in the clear. The idea is to soften the surface so that the water can escape.
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Well, I decided to hit the Ringmaster with clear last weekend, hoping to eliminate the 'milk'. I hit it with two coats of 20% clear. 20% retarder and the rest thinner. To quote an old saying, she "shines like a pewter dollar in a mud hole!". Plane looks great. Thanks for the advice, guys. BTW, probably didn't hurt that I drained a half gallon of water from the compressor tank.
Brew
;D