Getting ready to head to home depot to check out the color selections for a couple builds.  Problem is a I've never used this stuff before.

 I'm sure I will need to get primer for certain.

Other than Primer I have no idea which rustoleum to get... is there certain ones to stay away from? Is there a certain type to get? Would I need a clear coat as well?

  Sorry but this is unfamiliar territory.

Gloss protective enamel I have used white, yellow, black, and orange all good results with no clear. For primer I use NAPA DC540. I put 2 coats of butyrate dope on bare wood first. I let the dope dry a couple days before I put primer and let the rustoleum dry at least a week.

Thanks for the advice!   I jsut noticed that you are just down I-10 from me!

Rustoleum Enamels are pretty good.  They are fuel tolerant without a topcoat, but require a 2 week cure time before use. 
I have used "stop rust," "painters touch," and "professional" in gloss with good results. 

Grey Rustoleum "Professional" primer seems the best.  It cures very quickly to a state that sands easily, a couple hours. 

The "Painter's Touch X2" primer I found annoying as it would ball up and clog the sandpaper if not cured enough.  After about 2 days of cure it sanded pretty well.  Since it comes in white, grey, black, and red I will likely end up using it again.

Both primers can be used to fill the grain, however using lightweight spackle fills the grain much much MUCH faster prior to priming.

My fuel proof test is to use 1/2a fuel, 25% nitro, and apply it with a paper towel to the cured paint.  Cover the paper towel with plastic and let sit an hour.  Paint should not come off with light rubbing.  Paint is allowed to discolor when wet like this, it will return to normal color overnight.

Cured off enamel can be sealed with polyurethane varnish.  This is also available in a rattle can.  Make sure it is the STINKY type as the water born types are removed by alcohol.  Some have an amber color to them, others are clear.  Polyurethane seems to be suitably cured after a couple days.  Polyurethane can also be used on bare wood with excellent results.  (use colored markers and then poly for quick simple kid-friendly decorating)

Be very careful if you are using dope with enamels.  Enamels can go over aged dope.  As long as only enamels will be used afterwards it will be fine.  I have not tested polyurethane over enamel over dope.  I know that Balsarite over enamel over dope creates an unbelievable mess since the dope softens and sloughs the enamel.

Using Minwax polycryllic underneath the enamel seems fine.  I have only done this on two models, built together.  One is destroyed and the other is overweight.

Speaking of overweight, enamels, polyurethane, and polycryllic are heavier coatings than dope.  This means that care must be taken in application so not too many layers are used.  On 1/2a limit to 1 coat only of enamel color. 

Phil

Stay away from the metallic.  The comments about using it over dope are pertinent.  I've used it a lot over Minwax Polycrylic, and been happy.

Phil covered the topic very well. I'll just expand on his comments about the primer. I went to buy some Rustoleum primer yesterday and found they have introduced several types of primer I was unaware of. I've used Rustoleum for years and have never had a problem, but was spooked by all the varieties of primer. I finally found my trusted gray auto primer. It is the only kind I found that says "wet sandable" on the can. That's the one I recommend. Good stuff!

Paul

Ace Hardware Rust preventative paints are also an option.  XORust from True Value, as well.  Same advice as Rustoleum.

People have used Krylon, and a bunch of generic enamels too.  I want to say "enamel is enamel" but I know I'll end up in trouble from someone.  Testing your paint is the best way.  Make up a sample on a small board and let it cure fully, then apply fuel to it.  Trap the fuel with plastic and let it sit an hour to simulate spilled fuel around the engine.  Yes, the 14 day cure off time can be a problem if you are in a hurry or have a deadline (contest).  Putting the samples together early in the build is pretty easy, it takes little time.

There are differences in the formulation of gloss levels so this might be a problem if you need a flat finish.  Test first.  I am working on an electric RC that is getting a flat finish, so I'll make up a test board to see how it tolerates fuel.  Going to be a while though. 

"Lacquer" is typically not fuel proof, same with "shellac."  Lacquer is typically similar to nitrate dope, some ARE nitrate dope.  Shellac is very alcohol soluble.  My experiments using household primers (Zinsser BIN, and Killz) have been mixed, fair to poor results against fuel.

Please also note that I am aware of more people having a problem with exhaust oils than the fresh fuel.  The oily exhaust is acidic and over time will soften the paint.  This is a slow process compared to what the fuel does, but can cause the paint to fall off if the plane is not cleaned.  This typically take weeks.  Simple housekeeping by cleaning the model is enough to stop this.  I use automotive washer fluid and paper towel after a dry wipe.

Phil