My first real stunt ship so I've really tried hard to keep the weight down with this model. 500 sq's. OS LA 46.

I used all weapons grade balsa from Tim Morris, which BTW Tom sellected, I just gave him the sizes.

Tom had the weight of each sheet written on the end in grams. So, depending on the use, I had a choice. Not much, but a gram or two. It all adds up.

I just primed the model and then sanded a bit off with 600. I weighed the model before the primer and after I sanded it.

Looks like I added 1.8 oz. I have absolutely no idea if this weight is average for this size model? 55" in span. But, it is what it is.

I do believe I may dust on a tad more, but most of that second coat will get sanded with 600 also.

For those that keep track of their weight from coat to coat, how much weight are you adding with primer?

Thanks in advance.

Charles,

In general, you want to sand off all primer except what it filling grain and low spots. If you go a good job in initial sanding and prep, there shouldn't be much in the way of low spots, but sometimes, it is what it is. Primer is heavy. No question. Not sure on per coat weight as it depends on a lot of factors including areas covered and open bay, covered areas (that soak up more primer).

The best (weight wise) finish I ever did was on a 620 square inch plane in which the entire finish, from bare wood to let's go flying was 7.2oz. And it was an 18 point finish. I didn't use primer on that plane but just built up with high solid clear dope and a lot of sanding.

1.8 oz. sounds about right for a solid coat of primer.  Block sand it all off and you'll be left with a mottled grey blotch finish that weighs less than an ounce.  Proceed from there.

Primer is heavier because of the fillers in it.  Clear dope will be lighter, but a lot harder to sand away.  I'm cheap and lazy, so I use Rustoleum gloss enamels.  A 6-8oz finish is quite possible on a 550-700 sq.in plane-

A model painter I trust says he has been getting that down to 4.5 oz. using automotive primer, well-sanded, followed by auto color and then one coat of well-thinned auto clear coat.  That has to be about the minimum possible for a paint finish.  It's only 10-15% of what goes on cars.

Phil C

Use 400 and sand of much more of the primer. It is composed of talc and zinc stearate (assuming this is DC540?). Based on the info online for the stuff. Most JU 87's were olive drab, so primer should only be used to fill in small scratches, etc. That is a lot of scale detail for a stunter and that makes it heavy, especially with only 500 sq, but the LA .46 should help some. 

Ty,

Thanks for the reply and interest.

The primer is white, I didn't use the DC540. I also applied a bit of paint before the primer. Some of that is visible, but sanded most of it away.

Thought I could get away with not using any primer. I should know better.

I will remove a bit more, but it's thin already.

I no longer use the Post Office scales, really not accurate.

What you see in that photo weighs in at 31.7 oz. on a Weight Watcher's scale. I have no way of telling if it's accurate.

I'm really excited about this Tank Buster. It'll be done in winter camo.

Thanks again for the reply.