Randy,
I was up at Varley's the other day when he covered his wing on the new E-Suntan.  He stopped the polyspan about 1/2" after the tip rib because he doesn't like to use the material on the tips.  He then just overlaps with silkspan on the tips and it looks fine.  I think I'd put the polyspan on first and then use silkspan of carbon veil.
Alan

 Hi Randy.

 Yes it is. I cover my free flight wings so, I put Polyspan only over open bays and lightweight Modelspan / Japanese tissue over the carbon D-box. I do it mainly because the Modelspan covering does not get fuzzy in use like polyester paper does. Covering that way also saves a couple of grams in weight.
 I put first the Polyspan and then overlap it with tissue about 2-3mm. When I'm finished with dope and sanding, I cannot feel the seam. Sometimes I cover the seam with a narrow stripe of Esaki Lite-flite tissue but that's for decoration only.
 Sanding the bare Polyspan/dope can be difficult, the surface gets fuzzy if you sand too deep. But I only use 5-6 coats of shrinking dope (Zapon type), in a stunt plane with good sanding sealer it's easier as you can see what's happening. L

Thanks, guys.

Very nice woodwork on that plane Wayne!!!  Love those tight joints.

 I get mine from Tom Morris.

 It definitely takes a little getting used to, but I won't use anything else now.

 Here's a few tips that will help:

 This ones a BIGGIE: Don't ever forget to keep the shiny(er) side out. Check, double-check, and then check again before applying. You will really regret it if you get the wrong side out.
 
 I'll typically apply a section by tacking down only the outermost perimiter of each section and finish the whole wing that way, less the wingtips in my own case. Get the covering as nice, smooth, and wrinkle free as you can at this time. Then I stop and let the dope dry overnight before I go back to shrink it with the heat gun. Personally I feel the heating process goes a lot better with the dope fully cured. I've had the covering want to bubble up on the sheeted areas if the dope isn't fully cured. I use a cheapo Tower Hobbies heat gun on high for shrinking. Be real easy with the heat gun until you get a good feel for shrinking it. You can burn a hole over the open bays pretty easily if you're not careful, and since it's poly the hole gets big real fast.
 I'll usually turn off one of the lights in my shop and situate myself so that I can watch the shadows to know when it's tight. Just like when (if) you use that technique while sanding certain things to see your high and low spots.

 After it's all shrunk with the covering still only attached at the perimiter, then I'll go back with the dope and attach it to the ribs and everywhere else. After that you're ready to start with your favorite finishing process.

 

 Kim,

 Everyone has their favorite process it seems. I prefer keeping things simple whenever possible. I feel that way of thinking also lessens the chance of problems.

 Here's what I do as far as the finishing work goes up until applying color on my own models:

 I mix up 50:50 clear butyrate dope and thinner and use only it on the entire model from the very first coats on the bare wood, all the way through the wing covering process, and all silkspan work. With the model all finish sanded and ready to go, I put down two good coats on the bare wood and then lightly sand after each coat before putting on any covering. I use Polyspan on my wings and I cover all of the rest of the model with medium silkspan. Polyspan is much stronger and more durable than silkspan on the open bay areas. Once the entire model is covered, I continue to coat and build up with the 50:50 clear and sand in between until I'm satisfied that it's time for the color. I never use any sanding sealers or primers. Works perty good for me.

 BTW guys, don't even think about sanding Polyspan until you have at least four coats of the 50:50 on it. Even then be real careful until you get used to the stuff and learn what you can, and can't, get away with. Once you get used to it though I think you'll really like it.