News:



  • May 23, 2024, 09:38:11 AM

Login with username, password and session length

Author Topic: Polyspan and water-based polyurethane  (Read 4294 times)

Offline Geoff Goodworth

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *****
  • Posts: 808
Polyspan and water-based polyurethane
« on: April 20, 2014, 05:34:04 PM »
Has anybody used water-based polyurethane and polyspan covering without attaching the covering with dope?

I'm keen to try this as I have good reasons for using both materials but I'm wondering about attaching the covering.

Should I use Balsa-loc or thinned PVA wood glue and iron on the covering before sealing and finishing with the polyurethane?

Online Tim Wescott

  • 2016 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 12822
Re: Polyspan and water-based polyurethane
« Reply #1 on: April 20, 2014, 10:06:39 PM »
I don't know about Polyspan, but this works great with silkspan.

I do a couple of coats of Polycrylic on the bare wood, then I wet the silkspan, wring it out so it's just damp, then stick it down with Polycrylic.  It has a tendency to want to expand in the Polycrylic, but starting with it damp makes the job easier.

I have no clue how Polyspan would work.
AMA 64232

The problem with electric is that once you get the smoke generator and sound system installed, the plane is too heavy.

Offline Avaiojet

  • 22 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 7468
  • Just here for the fun of it also.
Re: Polyspan and water-based polyurethane
« Reply #2 on: April 21, 2014, 05:33:21 AM »
Tim's right, you can get it done using Polycrylic. However, Polycrylic is water bast. Not a good thing to do apply a water base chemical to bare wood.

I gave the wood a couple coats of wood filler, lacquer based. dries fast sands easily. Home Depot.

All this silk work was done using lacquer based wood sealer and Polycrylic.

Charles
Trump Derangement Syndrome. TDS. 
Avaiojet Derangement Syndrome. ADS.
Amazing how ignorance can get in the way of the learning process.
If you're Trolled, you know you're doing something right.  Alpha Mike Foxtrot. "No one has ever made a difference by being like everyone else."  Marcus Cordeiro, The "Mark of Excellence," you will not be forgotten. "No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot."- Mark Twain. I look at the Forum as a place to contribute and make friends, some view it as a Realm where they could be King.   Proverb 11.9  "With his mouth the Godless destroys his neighbor..."  "Perhaps the greatest challenge in modeling is to build a competitive control line stunter that looks like a real airplane." David McCellan, 1980.

Offline john e. holliday

  • 24 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 22781
Re: Polyspan and water-based polyurethane
« Reply #3 on: April 21, 2014, 10:40:10 AM »
I have used water based polyurethane on bare wood with no problems, even the flat surfaces like stab/elevator, flaps and rudders.   Yes if you put it on one side first they will start to curve a bit, but I put it on like doping wings.  It seals the wood and for me makes a good base for dope after sanding all the fuzzies down.   Then I go with a few coats of dope to have something to adhere the poly span(now Poly-T if you order from Stunt Hanger Hobby) with.  I put it down dry pulling as many wrinkles out as I can.   Once all surfaces are covered I carefully go over them with the heat gun.   I have also discovered on fuselages and flat surfaces that a iron will take out 99% of wrinkles that have formed from trying to get the Poly-Span to lay down while doping it down.    Use the iron after dope is dry.   By the way the polyurethane was a mistake at the time.  I thought I had opened a can of poly-acrylic clear.  It still worked for my application though.
John E. "DOC" Holliday
10421 West 56th Terrace
Shawnee, KANSAS  66203
AMA 23530  Have fun as I have and I am still breaking a record.

Online Tim Wescott

  • 2016 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 12822
Re: Polyspan and water-based polyurethane
« Reply #4 on: April 21, 2014, 10:54:51 AM »
I put a very thin first coat on, to avoid warping.  I have had wood warp with Polycrylic, but that was some 1/16" center-section sheeting that I had really jammed in place rather than sanding it a bit more (and risking a gap).  I've never had a problem with anything thicker than 1/16".
AMA 64232

The problem with electric is that once you get the smoke generator and sound system installed, the plane is too heavy.

Offline Dane Martin

  • 21 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 2804
  • heli pilot BHOR
Re: Polyspan and water-based polyurethane
« Reply #5 on: March 31, 2015, 01:31:16 PM »
I decided to reply to this instead of a new topic...
Is the stuff that comes in a SIG kit box silkspan? I tried brushing on minwax polycrilic (which i use exclusively now as my clear base) but i could not for the life of me get it to stick down the silkspan... I brushed on the polycrillic, stretched on the damp silkspan then brushed around the edges. When it dried, the silk tightened up a little and pulled right off the edges. I started over with another method and it worked fine. What did i do wrong?

Online Tim Wescott

  • 2016 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 12822
Re: Polyspan and water-based polyurethane
« Reply #6 on: March 31, 2015, 02:31:27 PM »
Dane:

Yes, the stuff that comes in Sig kits is silkspan.

I have only ever used Polycrylic to stick silkspan onto solid wood.  If your trouble is coming when you try to put silkspan on an open-bay structure, I suspect that the silkspan is drying faster than the Polycrylic, basically pulling things apart before the Polycrylic has had time to develop any strength.

I don't know what, if anything, the answer to the problem may be.
AMA 64232

The problem with electric is that once you get the smoke generator and sound system installed, the plane is too heavy.

Offline Dane Martin

  • 21 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 2804
  • heli pilot BHOR
Re: Polyspan and water-based polyurethane
« Reply #7 on: March 31, 2015, 04:09:14 PM »
Ok. That makes sense. I'll just do it the old way. It's too easy of a job to complicate it with experimentation.
What you say Tim, is exactly what it felt like.

Offline Dane Martin

  • 21 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 2804
  • heli pilot BHOR
Re: Polyspan and water-based polyurethane
« Reply #8 on: April 05, 2015, 02:21:25 PM »
Ok, so I stuck the silk span on and then used polycrillic to seal the silk. I'm gonna use rustoleum to paint.

Offline Douglas Ames

  • 2014 Supporters
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1299
Re: Polyspan and water-based polyurethane
« Reply #9 on: April 14, 2015, 06:37:10 PM »
I'm building a Blackhawk Fokker right now using Polyspan and Polycrylic (Minwax). I've had luck so far using a glue stick to tack it down. Be sure to get the grain in the right direction. I also brushed a coat of PC on before covering to seal the wood. Brush on the PC around the perimeter and ribs and allow to dry, then use the heat gun on low.PC will not shrink the polyspan as you know. I have been shrinking it fully after the first coat.
AMA 656546

If you do a little bit every day it will get done, or you can do it tomorrow.

Offline Dane Martin

  • 21 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 2804
  • heli pilot BHOR
Re: Polyspan and water-based polyurethane
« Reply #10 on: April 15, 2015, 08:43:49 AM »
Douglas,
Did you apply the glue stick around the perimeter? Or just on the tough spots? And the silk span was damp as normal?


Advertise Here
Tags:
 


Advertise Here